I have a good friend who is renting this track for a day:

https://racemph.com/

He has invited me along. I've always wanted to track the car. I've autocrossed it a number of times, but I feel the GTO would be much happier on a bigger course so here's my shot. About 4-5 of us will have the whole track to ourselves for the day! The tires are a few years old but still in great shape. It is running like a freakin' champ right now so this is all good timing. Brakes too are fairly new.

So, what would be a good prep? I'm thinking:

-slightly overfill the crankcase by maybe half a quart
-bring along an air bubble to up the pressures at the track
-always have good gas in the car, but I'll be sure to top off the tank when we get there (it is about 120 miles away)
-bring along some brake fluid and check the brake and clutch fluid at the track
-bring along some extra coolant (going to drain and refill the cooling system this weekend anyway)
-bring tools
-set the Konis to full stiff at the track
-set the sway bars to full stiff (already there I think)

Anything else? Plan to drive the car to and from the track.

The car: http://www.macswebs.com/richl79/myGTO/index.html

 

Dont set the shocks to full stiff, you will not have grip. Set to about half way on both, which ever end is looser, soften a click until it feels even.

Full stiff is probably ok on the sways u less the rear is an oversized drag bar.

Fresh dot 4 brake and clutch fluid a must, best to have fresh oil and other fluids shouldn't be too old.

Air isn't a bad idea but you will 2ant lower than autox pressure. Depending on tires and ambient temp, I go out cold anywhere 26-30

Good pads and rotors, not good street pads but Raybestos st43 is a good start.

You can overfill the oil about a quart, full gas tank is good, it will be empty probably before the end

 

Everything Mike said and I want to footstomp the real brake pads and fluid. Street pads suck on the track. If you've never experienced true racing pads, you really don't know what you're missing.

 

You've never had this car on the track. That makes it an unknown quantity. Not a bad thing. But you'll have to keep a close watch on everything until you figure out how this car is going to behave.

Bring an infrared thermometer; get a cheap one from HF.
- Keep an eye on your brake temps so you don't scorch them.
- check tire tread temps so you can adjust pressure properly. Not super accurate; but inexpensive and will get you in the ball park.
- monitor oil pan temps. Road racing really puts the heat in the oil. Plan on changing the oil again after the track week end.

bring a small 12v air compressor. Takes up less room, and you'll have an unlimited supply of compressed air.

The most efficient cooling systems contain pure water and a surfactant. No anti-freeze. The more anti-freeze you have in the system, the less efficient it will be in transferring thermal load. Anti-freeze helps lube the water pump, and helps prevent corrosion. Since you're going to change the coolant, I would only add water and about 10-15% antifreeze and a bottle of Water Wetter. Later you can add more anti-freeze if you want to.

As Mike said, set the shocks about in the middle to start with. Maybe a little stiffer on compression, depending on how it handles now. Leave the sway bars alone unless you need to tune out a particularly annoying habit; like too much understeer. The factory suspension is designed to understeer a bit. But too much is not good.

Flush brakes and clutch before you go to the track. Make sure there's fresh fluid in the calipers and throw out bearing. You shouldn't need to add any brake fluid after that. But I'd bring it along anyway.

Bring a torque wrench. Torque the lugs nuts to spec before EVERY track session.

Bring a jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks. Something might come loose under the car, and you'll need to get in there and fix it.

Go over the car from stem to stern about a week before hand. Look at all suspension bolts. Look for anything broken or questionable. Look at ALL brake pads. All 8 of them. Road racing really eats of the pads fast.

Bring extra fuel. You're going to need it.

Before going out on the track, take everything out of the trunk. Even something simple like a can of WD-40 can be a fire hazard. Remove anything from around the driver that can be a hinderance - floor mats, etc.

Be prepared, and you'll have a great week end.

 

Change in plans. The friend who is renting the track had invited me, his son and his son's friend. The son and son's friend can't go so it is just me and my friend with his 09 Z06 (heads cam car, puts 658 rwhp to the ground) and his 09 911 C4S (or 997.2 if you prefer). Oh darn, I get to drive an overpowered Vette or a Porsche (probably both once we get there). Both have barely DOT legal track tires on them. I've driven the Vette and I've driven a lesser powered version of the Porsche but I'll still have to spend some time becoming comfortable with either on the track. I'll probably keep the stability nannies on, at least on minimum settings.

Nice to have a friend like this!

 

Change in the change. The son is back in so the GTO is back in.

 

 

First rule of track driving,,
1. If you can't write the car replacement check and walk away after the crash without crying,, DON'T track the car.

Second rule,,
2. Never drive someone else's car on track if you can't write the check for it after you crash it. Even if its a mechanical fail, its on you.. That porsch engine will cost > 15K (At best case) to replace if you money shift it..

Third rule,,
3. When someone else hits you,, your broken car is your problem, there is no fault on a race track..

I've spent years around road and dirt racing.. These rules always come to the front when a car get totaled.
I watch a brand new Ferrari and a brand new Porsche cup car total each other,, at about 150,,
Both cars went home on flat beds with over 50K in damages each. The idiots tried to claim it was a street accident.. And claim it on their insurance ... ended badly.

You can buy track insurance, it isn't cheap and its not for races.. But its a way to not lose it all..

 

^^^ what pdxmotorhead said, I actually cringed when you mentioned those high powered cars. Those should never be taken out by novices and I would even be hesitant to drive someone else's car myslef with decent experience, you pretty much assume replacement liability when you get behind the wheel.

Looks like a fun coarse, couple of suggestions if I may, coming out of the pits you darted to the right to hit the Apex, better to stay far left all the way around the turn. One day someone will still be running and come in hot and will end up badly. Also get in the habit of shifting gears and putting both hands back on the wheel, you mostly did but could see you keep your hand on the shifter a couple times, not a bid deal but anything could happen anytime (blowout, bearing seize, etc) and that extra split second of control makes the difference. Coming in after a session do a slow lap or two around the paddock to help cool brakes and everything.

 

I'll just leave this here.