sprung_monkey

iTrader: (8)

ok im a newbie at suspension and have only had my car for a few months but already the suspension is holding me back and i want to upgrade some things

its a 99 a4 t/a convt (yea best chioch to road race right ) but i have about a few bucks to play with and just looking to see what would be the best route for me

JasonShort

iTrader: (242)

A good set of weld in subframe connectors and a set of Eibach ProKit springs are where I would start. They made a huge difference in how my convertible handled, although in efforts to have a "stiff" convertible, I have done just about everything to it. Close, but hasnt happened yet....going to do some custom work over the winter.

SFC's and ProKit is the best place to start for the money. From there go with larger swaybars.

Jason

sprung_monkey

iTrader: (8)

i was looking at the pro kit and i like the prices plus im going to be adding a rollbar soon (i wish i had a roof somtimes) so that should help somewhat

didnt think of subframe connectors well didnt know what they hell they did either way.........sorry yeah very newbish

sprung_monkey

iTrader: (8)

never mind just found a deal on some nice bmr convt connectors

thanks though

JasonShort

iTrader: (242)

If you are going to do a rollbar, I would suggest the Wolfe. Best fitting, most functional, and best looking cage in my opinion. I have installed 5 of them, including one in each of my cars.

Jason

2002z28ssconv

If you autocross, or plan to, be carefull with SFC's. In most clubs they will bump you up into higher classes and you'll be forced to compete with more heavily modified cars.

The best gain I got BY FAR was when I installed the ST 35mm front sway bar (~$175). I also lowered it with DMS progressive rate springs (~$155) (almost ~2" drop). That helped too, of course. A panhard bar with heim joints (~$150) gets rid of some of the tail-happiness when doing quick left-right-left maneuvers. Shocks will help too. They need to be valved to match your springs for best results. I recommend Bilstein HD's(<$500). They're relatively cheap, good quality and can be revalved/rebuilt.

For under $1,000 you can handle like a Vette. Maybe a stock Vette - lol. j/k but it really doesn't take that much to make an F-body handle well, even if it's a vert. I think they have better front/rear weight balance with the top down anyway. lol

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

Agreed if you get the roll cage go with the Wolfe.

Are you going to be doing any competitive autocrossing?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Just so that we are on the same page, "Road Racing" is not "Street Racing"

Need to know ...

What is the car doing that is "holding you back"? What tangible data do you have that supports this? tire pressures? tire temps?

What is your goal? AX? RR? OT? What venues will you be running?

How much experience do you have behind the wheel on a AX course or a RR track? It has been my experience that if a car is pushing really bad, it's because my right foot is too heavy and I over-cook the car going into a turn. If the tail gets happy on corner exit, again, my right foot is too heavy.

sprung_monkey

iTrader: (8)

honestly im a late night backroads kinda guy but i am looking into getting into some autocross racing

the things that are holding me back are the tail happy rear end and lots of roll

and yes i do have a heavy foot more like lead but i know my limits and experience basicly nil............but like i said i am a newb and i was looking for answers from the right people ie.road racing and autocross guys


also does anyone know of where i can find some local autocross races in central cali?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

www.autocross.com

Find an evolution school to attend and make sure your problems aren't driver induced. If the driver sucks, an F1 suspension under your car will still roll and oversteer.

The absolute cheapest modification that can be had is education. A lot of folks have too big of an ego to admit they might be overdriving the car.

sprung_monkey

iTrader: (8)

no ego here im just asking for advice

i never said i could drive my car all that well but i do know once i get better suspension i will be able to handle it alot better than i do now but thats just a fact no ego what so ever
and thank you for the link

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

Cool, I think mitchntx was saying that some people (not you directly, but a lot of us potentially) overdrive their cars and then want to buy stuff to fix it rather than educate themselves to be able to extract the most out of what they have.

Having followed his posts on various forums for years though, I do know that he has an extreme amount of knowledge on the subject of making these cars handle, and the link he gave has some great information as well.

Good luck with the convert, keep us posted.

SSpeedracer

iTrader: (8)

I've taken my convertible to both open track and autox events. You will be happiest with the following, in order:

If you are on a budget then forget about buying new springs. Cut 1/2 coil off the bottom of each front spring with an angle grinder using a cut off blade. Try replacing the rear spring isolators with hose (5/8 ID?)

1- alignment 0 toe -1.5 camber (but you might want to wait till after installs below)
2- shocks
3- weld in sub frame
4- 35 mm front bar
5- 315 tires front back
6- rod end adjustable panhard bar (required for #5)

That will be your biggest bang for the buck. Frankly, I wouldnt drop more into your car unless you wanted to switch over the trans to M6.