hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

like the post states, which is the priority? im debating weather to put my spare tire and jack back in before an autox to balance out the car. Im understeering more than im oversteering, and im wondering how to counter this via weight if possible.

-Chris

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Less weight should be the priority. The less weight you have to accelerate, turn and stop, the better.

The suspension can be tuned to counter a weight bias imbalance.

dailydriver

As well as tire pressure to a point.

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

K thats what i thought. my only concern was that the factory weight balance isnt great to begin with, and the weight ive taken out has been from the rear. thanks

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

And until you decide to give up street use, it always will be.

Getting rid of "convenience" items like head lights and the associated infrastructure, pruning the wiring harness, moving the computer and associated wiring, moving the battery, chunking the windshield wiper assy ... it will always be very nose heavy.

After going to those lengths, my TA is still 52/48 F/R bias

Glenn98ZM6

i highly doubt that your push will be tuned out by adding the weight of a jack and spare tire.
work the problem.

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

Might be related to LCA or LCA lowering brackets.

pavell

Did you try messing around with different tire pressure? What tires are you running?

I would suggest not adding weight to try and achieve a different driving characteristic. I aim for less unsprung weight and let the way tire pressure and sway bar settings deal with under/over steer. This gives a more controlled reference.

Rescue Ranger

iTrader: (10)

I was told to try 35 front 25 rear for autox on my Avon Tech RA slicks. I ran 37/30 my last event, and made a couple fun runs on 35/25, but wasn't able to comment much on it..

What tire pressure would you use to minimize weight bias?

Shock Hawk

What's the weight ratio on stock f-bodies?

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

Nose heavy. I weighed my car once, and IIRC it was 54/46.

SouthFL.02.SS

That's not bad.

dailydriver

Yeah, NOT at all! I thought we were 57/43!!

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

Maybe it was 56/44, I can't remember, as it was over a year ago. I need to weigh both of my cars again. I am pretty sure, however, it was better than 57/43.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Not bad? What?

Given a car weighing in at 3500lbs, that's over 400lbs of nose weight. 400lbs! That's an extra LS1 motor!

SouthFL.02.SS

^
Not as bad compared to other platforms.

Shock Hawk

We can fix that if it's that close to 50/50. How hard could it be? Battery relocation and some other stuff (no turbo or supercharge) and we can see 50/50. Anyone done it? What did you do for it?

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

50/50 or even 49/51 48/52 is the target setup for weight distribution in a front engine/RWD car.

My '93 FD RX-7 with LS1/T56 (no a/c or p/s): 49.5% front/50.5% rear 2950lbs (with driver/full tank of gas). The crossweights were within 1lb of each other after corner balancing.

285/30/18 MichPSCup tires all around with mellow street alignment= 1.13g's

dailydriver

...and that's at least part of the reason (along with compact wheelbase/low cg/great "polar moment"/short overhangs, etc.) those hybrids are soooo sick on a road course (as well as a drag strip with some suspension mods/adjustments)!!

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Relocating the battery to the spare tire compartment, stripping the front of all headlights and brackets, building a lightweight boxed air intake for cooling, moving the PCM into the passenger footwell, stripping EVERYTHING from under the dash (I mean EVERYTHING), moving the driver's seat back 10 inches, removing all carpet/deadening/seam filler, passenger seat, replacing the T-Tops with aluminum blanks ... all that and I'm still 52/48 in an LT1 car. dry weight is about 2950lbs.

It will take a UMI K-Member and serious carving of body structure to get that last 75-100lbs ...

With an LS1 car, it would definitely be easier.