Performance Alignment?
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From: North Dallas
Performance Alignment? I am getting the SS aligned and am thinking I should have them do a "performance alignment". You know, to make it corner better. It is mostly street driven but I also do HPDE events and like to corner. Good idea or no?
Define performance alignment...performance alignment to their specs, or yours?
I'd say it is a great idea as long as you are providing the specs...I'm just not sure of who I could trust around me to do it (I don't think most tire shops would be willing to work with me on it).
I'd say it is a great idea as long as you are providing the specs...I'm just not sure of who I could trust around me to do it (I don't think most tire shops would be willing to work with me on it).
-1.5 Camber, 4.5 castor(Or more is they can get it.), -.05 toe. would work real nice. But depending on how low the car the camber might be hard to get. It depends on the car. I will tell you to get max tire life tire rotation every 3-4000 miles. I hope this helps.
John
John
Last edited by Ojustracing; Sep 11, 2007 at 02:36 PM.
Originally Posted by Ojustracing
-1.5 Camber, 4.5 camber(Or more is they can get it.), -.05 toe. would work real nice. But depending on how low the car the camber might be hard to get. It depends on the car. I will tell you to get max tire life tire rotation every 3-4000 miles. I hope this helps.
John
John
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From: North Dallas
Oh, I am on the stock springs and mostly stock suspension except for Bilstein HD shocks. Should a good alignment guy know these numbers or are they f-body specific? Thanks for the information.
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Verdad Gallardo Arctic these setting are not stock. If you go to a place they may set it to factory specs that are different from what we gave you. You need to go to a place that will listen/do what you want. The chepy tire place might not take the time to adjust things the way you want. Make Sure you get a Print out of before and after.
John
John
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+1 except for zero toe for street driving.
You'll love the improved bite you get out of the front.
I've been messing around with home alignments and think I like -1 deg. camber, +4.5 to 5.5 caster, and 0 toe for a good compromise of tire wear, twitchiness, and grip.
The optimum alignment varies though with driver preferrence, driving style, suspension setup, tire type, tire size, pressures and road surface. But most people find these settings to be much better than stock.
You'll love the improved bite you get out of the front.
I've been messing around with home alignments and think I like -1 deg. camber, +4.5 to 5.5 caster, and 0 toe for a good compromise of tire wear, twitchiness, and grip.
The optimum alignment varies though with driver preferrence, driving style, suspension setup, tire type, tire size, pressures and road surface. But most people find these settings to be much better than stock.
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Thanks guys. I am taking all of this good information with me to the alignment shop today.
I think that the car has had something a little off in the alignment since I got it and my new GSD3 tires are really making it noticeable. The GSD3s do feel really good in the corners though. I will find out for sure at an HPDE this weekend.
I think that the car has had something a little off in the alignment since I got it and my new GSD3 tires are really making it noticeable. The GSD3s do feel really good in the corners though. I will find out for sure at an HPDE this weekend.
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Originally Posted by Mojave
Have you run @ TWS with Driver's Edge? I seem to remember a guy there named Craig with a white SS with cam/headers.
Originally Posted by Arctic2002ss
Yeah Chad(right?), that's me. I went to MotorSport Ranch the last time and am running it again. It's closer and I like the track better although it's slower and tighter than TWS.
A good alignment should really help your car, especially if you have a stock alignment now.
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Originally Posted by Greggy
+1 except for zero toe for street driving.
You'll love the improved bite you get out of the front.
I've been messing around with home alignments and think I like -1 deg. camber, +4.5 to 5.5 caster, and 0 toe for a good compromise of tire wear, twitchiness, and grip.
The optimum alignment varies though with driver preferrence, driving style, suspension setup, tire type, tire size, pressures and road surface. But most people find these settings to be much better than stock.
You'll love the improved bite you get out of the front.
I've been messing around with home alignments and think I like -1 deg. camber, +4.5 to 5.5 caster, and 0 toe for a good compromise of tire wear, twitchiness, and grip.
The optimum alignment varies though with driver preferrence, driving style, suspension setup, tire type, tire size, pressures and road surface. But most people find these settings to be much better than stock.
Originally Posted by DriftZ28
If you don't mind me asking... How do you adjust caster on f-bodys? My alignment guy doesn't know how.
There are 2 bolts that adjust the camber/caster specs. The camber bolt points front to back, and it is the bolt closer to the front of the car that supports the control arm. The caster bolt points from top to bottom, and is the rear bolt that supports the control arm. Both of these bolts have slots that allow the lower control arm to be moved. First, loosen both bolts. Then, set the camber where you want it, and tighten it just a little. Next, you can move the caster bolt. You can't measure caster directly (have to do a caster sweep), but more caster is always good for an f-body at or near stock height. Pull the control arm out from the inside of the car. This will give max positive caster at the given camber setting.
Most f-bodies are limited to what specs they can get stock. Getting good camber is more important than caster. First set camber, then caster, then set the toe. The toe change may slightly affect the camber reading.
Again, if your car is at or near stock height, max out camber and caster. Pull the control arm as far out as possible to give maximum.
Last edited by Mojave; Sep 13, 2007 at 12:12 AM.
