Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I'm trying to set my car up as a semi street friendly road race car. I'm planning on the sam strano/koni suspension setup, wolfe 6 point cage, umi road race tubular k with adjustable upper and lower arms, and a bunch more things, but I'm having some trouble deciding on a few things.

First off I'm not sure on what shifter to use, I have heard that the Pro 5.0s have a notchy feel, but I like the positive feel that you get when you know the shifter went into a gear. What are all of you guys using compared to the drag racing guys? Also clutch setup, I'm probably going to get a spec 3+ since they are a more street friendly clutch compared to a few others and I haven't heard of that many problems with these clutches. I also plan to get an aluminum flywheel. Now with that said what rear should I go with? I know that the 12 bolt is a little lighter than a 9" and it accepts factory style F-body brakes, so upgrading brakes will be easy. Although a 9" may be a little stronger the 12 bolt seems to make more sense to me.

My goals for the car is to have a driver that I can do anything with, whether its road racing, going on a long trip, or possibly making a few passes down the strip. But mostly I want to get into road racing and mabye a few auto-x events.

I know that my ideas may not be right, but I have never done anything like this before. I have always been more into drag cars, but they are pointless in my area since the track is more than 2 hours away and they are hard to drive on the street once you get to a certain point.

So if anyone has any suggestions for me please let me know and I'm sorry for rambling

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

Here are my observations:
HPDE & Open Track? Actual racing like NASA's Time trial or Wheel to wheel?

Can't go wrong there

Bad choice. Their cages are designed with drag racers in mind. If you want a bolt on then Autopower is a decent choice or you can always go cutom welded setup.

I would skip most of this stuff at first and get seat time (Lots of it) then if competing look at the classing systems. If doing TT you can use the points system to decide the level of modification I want. If just doing HPDE's then it doesn't matter just know that seat time and rubber are going to yield the best results.

Many use stock Hurst due to rule constraints other like the B&M.
I personally would stay away from the spec clutches, Some RR guys have had good luck with Centerforce Dual Clutch, others like the Clutch Masters, I Like my Textralia OZ 700.

Keep the 10bolt and get an auburn racers differential, Road Racing is easier on rears than Drag racing is.

Look at what others have done before and copy of that. But at this stage in the game keep mods to a minimum, get seat time and instruction. You would be surprised how fast our cars can be when properly driven.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thanks alot man, I really appreciate your input. I'm mostly going to do open runs, nothing compitition (SP) wise. A buddy of mine has an rx7 and is looking to getting into the open races. But I'll look into what they have for rules. Thanks for the input on the cage to, but whats the real difference? I just wanted it to stiffen up the car and add some sucurity for me and I didn't realize there what that much difference between them.

And as far as taking the car to the drag strip it would just be for fun, I'm not expecting any good times out of a car/suspension thats setup for road racing. But the car still has to be driven on the street. I was planning on getting a set of ZR1s just for street driving and having my GM SS wheels with some nitto road race tires (I can't remember the name of them) for when I take the car to the track since the SS wheels are pretty light.

But thanks again man and I'll look into some rules and that cage.

dailydriver

Most drag racing organizations allow the use of chromoly tubing for rollbars/cages. Most road racing orgs require the use of DOM mild steel for wheel to wheel sanctioned racing.

LivingCanvas

iTrader: (4)

I would also consider upgrading your brakes. You wont really need a big brake kit, but at least get some real good high temp fluid and high temp pads, with some brembo blanks(rotors)

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

And do some sort of brake vents / cooling for them.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

So if I got the Wolfe cage in mild DOM it would be ok then? I have just heard that the wolfe cage is a god quality piece and I like the simplicity of being able to bolt it in, but if I felt the need I could always weld it in too.

About the brakes I was going to upgrade to LS1 brakes and then get some 2 piece Baer Rotors since they will be a little lighter and then use good brake fluid and pads.

But on the down side my wife got in a car accident on Monday so the car is going to be on hold for a while, but any info would be great. Hopefully I will at least be able to get my tranny by spring.

Thanks again for all of the help guys