Engine build for sustained high RPM...
#21
I'm with you dj, I like building my own motor so I know what is in there. A LS6 bottom end will probably work great, but the powdered metal rods and cast pistons scare me. Clevitte 77 are good bearings. Just keep the main bearings pretty tight <.002 so you will have oil press when things get hot. A good oil cooler is important for road racing. 285 is too hot as Matt can tell you. If you run over 260, get a bigger cooler. Any good forged rod will work, Floating pins are always good for race engines. Longer rods make less side angle pressure on the piston. 6.1 to 6.098 is so close it won't matter.
#22
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Indianapolis
Pan baffles and accusumps are both band-aids, but you're better off with two band-aids then none. (unless you have dry sump $$)
Most *well-built* LSx shortblocks can spin WAY higher than the valvetrain can keep up with. That said, if all else is equal your car would be happier as a 6300 stroker than a 7500 rpm car with hyper exotic valvetrain...and I'd bet cost the same in the end. Just adjust the rear end ratio for what works well at your home track and have fun.
Most *well-built* LSx shortblocks can spin WAY higher than the valvetrain can keep up with. That said, if all else is equal your car would be happier as a 6300 stroker than a 7500 rpm car with hyper exotic valvetrain...and I'd bet cost the same in the end. Just adjust the rear end ratio for what works well at your home track and have fun.