people who ported there own TB's
people who ported there own TB's is this a really hard task?
I'm thinking since my car is down that I should port my TB, perform everylast one of the free mods...
ppl who did these Chime in..
pros/cons?
I'm thinking since my car is down that I should port my TB, perform everylast one of the free mods...
ppl who did these Chime in..
pros/cons?
only con i can think of is if you do not port it correctly, or when you keep jabbing the throttle cuz it feels stronger 
pros are numerous. do some searches and you'll find everything you can possibly think of. needless to say its a good mod.
pros are numerous. do some searches and you'll find everything you can possibly think of. needless to say its a good mod.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: KCMO
I didnt do mine, but I had a close friend do it. Ported it and did the throttle body bypass...Its alot smoother now, and i can feel the difference down low. Im really glad I did it, and would do it to all of my cars. Def. reccomend it.
It's not bad. I ported mine, didn't polish it so the inside doesn't have that mirror finish that others do (such as Bo White), but there was definitely a noticeable difference in throttle response. I say go for it.
Did mine to...i did the epoxy part too. Definitely a worthwile mod. And it's really hard to screw up - jjust stay away from the part where the throttle plate closes, and you'll be fine!
FYI for home throttle body porting Take the TB and clean it real good with a rag and brake clean inside to get the carbon off. Take a Sharpie and trace around the TB blade were it is at rest and that will give you a guide line to port up to(but not past). Take a T-15 torque bit and take the blade screws out and open the blade up by swinging the throttle to the open position and slide the blade through the back. Take a T-20 and take the screws out of the TPS and IAC and remove them and be sure to keep up with the rubber o-ring on the IAC so to be able to put it back when you reassemble. Take a dead blow or brass hammer and knock the throttle shaft out, there is a metal o-ring pressed on the shaft to keep it in that will pop off when ya do this that I just throw away. The throttle return spring will unwind on ya when the shaft moves out so be prepared. Now the TB housing is bare and now you can port it by removing the lip that is right infront of the blade by using the Sharpie marker mark that you traced earlier as a guide. Do not port past that point or you will "over port" it and have idling issues. Blend the rest of the housing opening to that point and your done 
. Take the throttle shaft and cut the front half of the split out and then reassemble the TB without the return spring so that you can visually see what you are doing while doing the throttle stop mod to just under 90 degrees. Once you get it to were you have full throttle you can disassemble it so you can put the return spring back in. Get ya 2 #6 washers to put under the blade screws and use LocTite 262 on the threads and your done once ya get the sensors back on 
. This is for all you guys that have wanted pointers from me lol. 
. Take the throttle shaft and cut the front half of the split out and then reassemble the TB without the return spring so that you can visually see what you are doing while doing the throttle stop mod to just under 90 degrees. Once you get it to were you have full throttle you can disassemble it so you can put the return spring back in. Get ya 2 #6 washers to put under the blade screws and use LocTite 262 on the threads and your done once ya get the sensors back on . This is for all you guys that have wanted pointers from me lol. Trending Topics
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Medford OR
I only polished mine, was to afraid to cut loose with the dremel on the inside, Stripped everything down like Bo said, then used 200 grit and wet sanded the entire inside, then used 400, 600, 800, and 1500 grit to get the smooth finish. Found some billet polish at Schucks, and man it worked awesome, it polished up to a mirror finish. Also ground the coolent tubes off of the outside and did the same thing to, wet sanded and polished it. PITA, but it looks great. Then on the second day I did the MAF ends. removed the center part and polished them.
Originally Posted by Bo White
Take the TB and clean it real good with a rag and brake clean inside to get the carbon off. Take a Sharpie and trace around the TB blade were it is at rest and that will give you a guide line to port up to(but not past). Take a T-15 torque bit and take the blade screws out and open the blade up by swinging the throttle to the open position and slide the blade through the back. Take a T-20 and take the screws out of the TPS and IAC and remove them and be sure to keep up with the rubber o-ring on the IAC so to be able to put it back when you reassemble. Take a dead blow or brass hammer and knock the throttle shaft out, there is a metal o-ring pressed on the shaft to keep it in that will pop off when ya do this that I just throw away. The throttle return spring will unwind on ya when the shaft moves out so be prepared. Now the TB housing is bare and now you can port it by removing the lip that is right infront of the blade by using the Sharpie marker mark that you traced earlier as a guide. Do not port past that point or you will "over port" it and have idling issues. Blend the rest of the housing opening to that point and your done . Take the throttle shaft and cut the front half of the split out and then reassemble the TB without the return spring so that you can visually see what you are doing while doing the throttle stop mod to just under 90 degrees. Once you get it to were you have full throttle you can disassemble it so you can put the return spring back in. Get ya 2 #6 washers to put under the blade screws and use LocTite 262 on the threads and your done once ya get the sensors back on . This is for all you guys that have wanted pointers from me lol.
. Take the throttle shaft and cut the front half of the split out and then reassemble the TB without the return spring so that you can visually see what you are doing while doing the throttle stop mod to just under 90 degrees. Once you get it to were you have full throttle you can disassemble it so you can put the return spring back in. Get ya 2 #6 washers to put under the blade screws and use LocTite 262 on the threads and your done once ya get the sensors back on . This is for all you guys that have wanted pointers from me lol. 
I also did mine. It takes some time to do. I've actually done it twice and will go at it a third time soon. I'm not totally satisfied with my own work its not perfect yet. I read a few write ups and the first time i removed alot of metal and did the epoxy. Then the second time i went and smothed it some more and then polished the inside. The next step in get the inside perfect and do the half shaft mod, and polishe it inside and out.
If you do it yourself watch out for the TPS bolts, I stipped one, but did come out. All I did with mine, was used a dremel and grinded the the lip in front of the blade. I didn't go overboard. I polished the inside and out and made sure the blade was opening fully. I didn't do the epoxy, since most said the gain wasn't enough to make a difference.
whats the point of porting the front of the TB if u still have the bottleneck "bump" where the TB blade sits? someone needs to cut up some slightly bigger TB blades for a true ported tb.
Originally Posted by JustAnIlluzion
whats the point of porting the front of the TB if u still have the bottleneck "bump" where the TB blade sits? someone needs to cut up some slightly bigger TB blades for a true ported tb.
All your doing is porting it so everthing up until the blade is a smooth transition. Besides u can pick up 8 hp w/ a good port.
Originally Posted by JustAnIlluzion
whats the point of porting the front of the TB if u still have the bottleneck "bump" where the TB blade sits? someone needs to cut up some slightly bigger TB blades for a true ported tb.
