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Were you able to log speed vs rpm to calculate converter slip? I run a tight PTC converter and it is pretty efficient up top I usually see around 5% slip over 20psi
Yeah it was around 14% last time I checked based on track speed and rpm
I'd recommend you log converter slip across the entire 1/4 (if you can). Under peak torque I was seeing upwards of 30% slip and still 10% crossing the traps. A restall did wonders for me.
I'd recommend you log converter slip across the entire 1/4 (if you can). Under peak torque I was seeing upwards of 30% slip and still 10% crossing the traps. A restall did wonders for me.
It doesn't matter how accurate your dial indicator is, or how small the increments are. It will not take into consideration dwell time at TDC and there for there will be an amount of error in your timing mark.
Do it right with your dial indicator, but also use a degree wheel of some sort to find the mid point. That is true TDC. If you don't know what I'm talking about cause I can't explain it over a forum, give Erik a call. He's sharp enough to know how to do it.
A stop is the only thing that takes dwell, clearances, and rock completely out of the equation and takes 5 minutes
But still takes a person to mark each end, measure the middle and mark it.
So little odds really.
Not any different than using a dial to measure two points either side of TDC and find the middle if you feel you're unable to actually locate TDC itself with a dial.
None are difficult unless access to the piston itself is difficult.
Last edited by stevieturbo; 03-27-2016 at 09:41 AM.
I've decided to just send the 9" back and go for the 10" FTI offers.. It's got to be the converter. I just don't see how it's losing power anywhere else.
Need to get a driveshaft sensor on that thing so that we can actually know what the converter is doing.
Trying to use a data log to guess trap rpm and using speed from the time slip with the magical online calculator is about as worthless as saying a piston stop is the only way to accurately find TDC. lol
So this guy put the cam in 3* advanced and didn't degree it? 135psi cranking compression is way way way off. And your converter is slipping crazy amounts. Why not go with something like a PTC thats tried and true. I slip less than 4% up top with mine. Call up PTC and talk to Dusty.
Then don't take someones word that they properly degree'd the cam. regardless of the leak down, with 135 cranking psi something is wrong. Check it yourself it's not hard and well worth the effort. Similar to the company that originally sent you 62mm turbos and said they were 66's, the cam being off is the obvious place to start double checking. I picked up 12mph just degreeing mine properly with no other changes. (same boost level)
Best of luck. DS sensors are cool! Just installed one on a buddys car this weekend. Went with this method....
Last edited by Forcefed86; 03-29-2016 at 08:45 AM.
So this guy put the cam in 3* advanced and didn't degree it? 135psi cranking compression is way way way off. And your converter is slipping crazy amounts. Why not go with something like a PTC thats tried and true. I slip less than 4% up top with mine. Call up PTC and talk to Dusty.
Then don't take someones word that they properly degree'd the cam. regardless of the leak down, with 135 cranking psi something is wrong. Check it yourself it's not hard and well worth the effort. Similar to hoy they originally sent you 62mm turbos and said they were 66's, the cam being off is the obvious place to start double checking. I picked up 12mph just degreeing mine properly with no other changes. (same boost level)
Best of luck. DS sensors are cool! Just installed one on a buddys car this weekend. Went with this method....
Well first off "that guy" is Erik from HKE. He knows his ****. The can was degreed as I watched him do it. I will agree that 135 is pretty low but from consulting with other trusted people it's not "way way way" off. On top of that I've been told that retarding the cam back 3* probably wouldn't make much of a difference at all on this cam. Again I'm far from an expert but the people I've consulted tell me this.
As far as the converter goes I agree 100% 14 is ridiculous. I asked FTI last night and told them the story. They said they will take my 9" back and give me more credit than I laid originally towards a 10" diode unit. He said with the 10" it should be roughly 9-11% with my 3:08 rear gear. I see a lot of guys with PTC units in the 4-5% range and it makes me jealous! But it will be hard for me to fork over 1300 when I can get the 10" for $300
I get that and I’m not bad mouthing the Erik or anyone else. Jose wasn’t some noob either and accidently sent you the wrong turbos. Mistakes happen. 99% of the time you can toss a cam in dot-to-dot advance it a few degrees, and everything will be fine without getting out the degree wheel. I’ve talked to LS engine builders that have never seen a crank keyway off 6.5* like it was with my setup. That doesn’t mean weird **** doesn’t happen.
I’m not pretending I know what’s wrong, but there’s a methodical way to go about trouble shooting. Something is off. As you say, it’s not blow by. That leaves cam timing as the next obvious place to check. It’s just a suggestion. Once you know 100% that cam timing is correct you move on to the next thing. But IMO that’s the obvious place to start. I guess if you saw him do it and are fully confident his methods were spot on that’s a different story. I’m not sure who you spoke with, but 135 is down way down for your combo from what I’ve seen personally. I’ve dealt with motors similar to yours with similar cam profiles and seen them crank 170-180. That’s the only reason I chimed in.
I went from cranking 140’s to cranking 200ish psi on a 10:1 5.3. I’m not saying my gauge was calibrated or perfect, but it jumped 60ish PSI once it was dialed in at 1.5* adv.
As far as the converter goes, 9-11% is crap as well these days. I’d return it, or sell it outright. Then start over with a company that has these turbo converters down pat. You spent tons of cash on the baddest glide around, need to pair it up with a great converter or it’s a waste IMO. Mine was $950… worth every penny, esp. for a half mile car. Slipping adds heat to the fluid as well.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 03-29-2016 at 08:57 AM.
03-26-2016, 03:09 PM
