HotRodLS1

Can you tell some more about your engine (Gen III or Gen IV, what year, with or without DoD?), transmission (automatic or manual?) PCV system (I've read you have a ls6 valley pan, but don't you have a clean side? How did you check your PCV system?), your driving habits (at what rpm do you drive/shift, do you still use it the same way as before?) and the history of your engine (oil use, changing parts, how many miles?)..

LSx '85 C10

Alright so it's a 2004 5.3 with now 95k miles, no DOD ,4l60e ,I have the ls6 valley pan and a breather on the passengers valve cover with a plug on the drivers rear, it's my daily driver I do about maybe 1 or 2 wot a day I drive about 20 miles total in a day, never used oil until I did my new valve springs with the Viton seals, it has a tsp can 224/228 .581/.588 110lsa cam, ls2 intake, and long tubes along with a trunnion upgrade

HotRodLS1

With it being a 2004 engine, it's a gen III. These generation engines can have problems with ring control and this gives a possible explanation. With replacing the valve springs you've, most likely, improved the opening en closing events of your valves. This increases the demands on your rings and because of this they can start to flutter at higher RPM's.

Another possible explanation could be a problem with your PCV system. The LS6 valley cover/baffle is usually problem free, although it doesn't restrict the crank case ventilation at the upper RPM's like the LS2 baffle does. Nevertheless the clean side airflow can reverse at WOT, something that can be increased after changing your valve springs. This can reveal a problem or with, or the lack of, an oil separator on the fresh air side.

LSx '85 C10

So are you dying I should switch to the beehive style springs I had before instead of the dual valve springs I have now? Or is the catch can going to be enough?

HotRodLS1

Increasing valve control is a good thing, I wouldn't go back to beehive springs if I where you. They possibly reveal the oil problem, but they don't cause it.
A catchcan is a well working band aid you can apply, but it won't solve the problem with your oil management. As an oil management/PCV pressure problem can lead to problems with gaskets, oil seals and engine wear, because of a lack of ventilation of crankcase vapors, I would look further.


If you want to determine what causes the problem, you can try to rule out the scenario's I've given you, and other scenario's.

I would start with checking the PCV hoses. Are they clean inside? If they aren't, clean the hoses, change the PCV valve if you have one and investigate the reason for the buildup. If they are clean, check/change your PCV valve if you have one.
If this doesn't solve the problem, you can look at the oil seperator underneath the valley cover. Does it seal properly to the valley cover? If not, oiled air can avoid going through the seperator underneath your valley cover.. Doesn't it block the air flow somehow? If airflow is blocked, through oil recidu for example, the crank case pressure will try to find it's way through the fresh air side.
If you haven't found the problem yet, I would concentrate on the fresh air side of the PCV system. By leaving out driving at WOT for a while, you will most likely rule out a problem on the fresh side of your PCV system. If the oil consumption decreases, you've likely found the problem. You can also choose to just install oil separation on the fresh air side if it isn't there, by changing to valve covers with baffles for axample.
If you haven't found the problem now, you can rule out the problem of ring control by driving at other, mainly somewhat lower RPM's for a while. This can keep the rings from oscillating and if oil consumption decreases you've likely found your problem.


p.s. When did you change your cam?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Consider adding a check valve to the clean side if you do a catch can

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

Do you have a check valve on your clean side? If so what direction does the air flow?

HotRodLS1

I'm struggling to understand why..

HotRodLS1

Let's hope not..

LSx '85 C10

i will take a look at my pcv system tomorrow i did my cam swap about 2 years ago

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

from throttle to valve cover. When you go wot, keeps high pressure from blowing a bunch of crap right back to the throttle through the clean side. If you vented the crank case air instead of using the port on the throttle, then disregard.

HotRodLS1

If you've got a bunch of crap in your engine, you may need to ask yourself how it got there in the first place. If you're talking about oil, you're better off seperating the oil from the air. Blocking the airflow is no solution, the pressure will try to find another way out and blow your main seal or something else.

LSx '85 C10

So the only hoses I have going to the intake is my ls6 valley pan ,both valve cover have breathers on them and are not goin to a catch can or intake of any sorts, however I have a catch can and I just ordered new Holley valve covers with the baffles inside

HotRodLS1

This modifications might make it a different story, I've missed the breathers in your first description. If the fresh air side isn't routed to your intake, you don't intend to do so, and the breathers aren't soaked in oil, there's no need for baffled valve covers.

With the use of breathers and the valley pan being the only thing going to your intake, the only way the PCV system can contribute to the oil film in your intake is through the oil seperator underneath your valley cover. Ofcourse the possibility of ring flutter is still there..

LSx '85 C10

So then how would I test ring flutter? I can only visibly see the smoke at night when I'm in front of a car at wot

LSx '85 C10

got the valve covers and welded the bungs on, im still really new with welding aluminum but i dont think i ddi too bad

HotRodLS1

Ring flutter is a little like the accident with Tacoma Narrow Bridge, it happens under certain conditions. As mentioned before, changing your valve springs can contribute to reaching those conditions when you drive.

The only way to check would be ruling everything else out, change your driving habits and check if your oil consumption decreases.

HotRodLS1

So you've decided to change the valve covers. I think you did a nice job, couldn't have welded it better. I've never welded anything though.


If your breathers were oily before, now would be the time to check if the baffles of your new valve cover(s) still seal properly:

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.c...and-blue-smoke

LSx '85 C10

Thanks! I'm waiting on cleaner coil pack harnesses I may have squished the breather on accident with the good 😂 I'll have to pick a new one up and lower the tank I noticed I have the same baffles in these new covers as I did with my oe ones

HotRodLS1

I can imagine this can feel like it's a pity, but maybe it's not. Holley does use OEM style baffles, but there are two different designs. The gen IV valve cover baffles are in the same location as the Gen III ones and I believe you won't see much, if any, difference. They are redesigned internally however, and patented. I don't know which design Holley uses..

Have you checked if the baffles seal(ed) properly? Don't forget to check if the baffle underneath your valley cover is working properly.

I've noticed you have the valve covers I want to get to know the weight of. I've already contacted Holley, but I doubt they will tell me something different then shipping weight. If you pull your valve cover again, can you toss one on the scale for me?