Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

FYI

Looping them is actually the incorrect thing to do. Obviously its not going to cause a melt down but the system is less efficient with the heater lines looped than plugged. It separates the high and low side of the system. Looping them lowers the overall flow rate.

When cold, the LS system actually has a large oriface that allows the high and low sides to mix to help the engine warm up more quickly. As the thermo opens it extends a block off plate into this opening to keep the high/low sides separate. Which is much more efficient flow/cooling wise.

This is also why if you remove the thermostat without blocking off the high/low side bleed orifice the car cools poorly. If you plug this oriface (i used a freeze plug in mine) and remove the thermostat you will improve overall flow and cooling. Which isn't optimal for a daily driver, but great for a race car with a tiny radiator like I run.

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

Ya I have seen the fab work on Nismo Kids (know him from the Z31 forums back in the day also)...I guess he paid a shop to do it, but either way it was probably worth the coin as it is clean! I am doing all of mine myself, here is a pic:

Nismo Kid

iTrader: (3)

Nice work blackened! I took my core support out too. It makes removing the engine so much easier & faster. I dig that dipstick. I may have to pick 1 of those up for myself lol. Oh and beautiful Pit by the way.

Everything on my build was done inside a 2 car garage by close friend & myself. We tend to help each other out . It may resemble shop work due to both of our previous careers were in the professional automotive industry. But It's a 100% home built car. Thanks for the complement John. Matt(FlawleZ) & I were just talking about you the other day. Glad to see your still around & making good progress on your Z.

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

Well you sir are a much better fabricator than me! Keep it up, your setup is unique and very visually attractive! ha ha I just cant make these TIGS look "professional"....some day

blackened

iTrader: (10)

Thank you for the information sir!


Thanks man, yeah I wanted to finish the project with the core support intact, but it wore me down and out came the recip! She definitely looks like a Pit, but she's actually an American Bully, and she thinks she's a lap dog lol

Agreed fantastic work

blackened

iTrader: (10)

In the process of moving so I had to wrap up everything enough to get it ready to move.

So anyway I finished up the cart for the most part. Still going to add some additional pieces for the grinders, clamps and supplies












I need a plasma, I wore this thing out cutting the diamond plate










Ensured the engine was level side to side



Prothane trans mount


Being new to metal fabrication, I figured I'd mock up the cross member in poplar to get the measurements and angles close



Cross member is made out of 1/4" flat with 3/16" gussets


















30 yr old bolts that didn't allow for a box end or a ratchet equaled a sweet brown situation







Shes loaded down and ready for the move so it may be a few weeks before the next update

DW SD

Unsolicited commentary alert ... your welds look pretty good and the cart looks great. I might suggest a bit more heat so they don't pile up on top of the joints so much. Then again, 1/4" is pretty thick on the trans crossmember.

I'd have my 200 amp MIG machine turned to WOT with material that this. And probably my TIG to 250 amp - its WOT setting.

Everyone develops their own preferences. But for a small weld (less than 2" long with thick material) the setting chart on the machine might be too low.

Another option is chamfering the to-be-welded edges so you begin welding at the bottom of the joint.

Doug

blackened

iTrader: (10)

Thanks man, any constructive criticism is welcomed as the entirety of my instruction has been via youtube and google!

As for the heat, I had that 110 welder all the way up on that 1/4" so I'm certain it wasn't generating enough heat, but its all I had at the moment and I figured since it was on the edges and I could hit it from both sides, it'd be enough penetration

Sparkydog

Pre-heat the thick stuff with a propane or MAP torch. It gives the small MIG a head start on the joint.

DW SD

Given the low amp rating, definitely chamfer all joints plus pre-heating as suggested.

blackened

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the help guys, I'll definitely incorporate them next time I'm dealing with thicker steel, which should be when I start the rear sub frame swap

blackened

iTrader: (10)

I’ve been extremely busy with many things; however, there is still progress being made, albeit slowly. Backfilling since my last update:


May 2016

Picked up a flare kit and deburr tool for the BMC line





Picked up a plasma cutter



New house with a two-car garage, DOUBLE THE SPACE!







June 2016


Back out. Should be for the last time hopefully






Here's where I let the scope of the project run a bit rampant. Decided I wanted to continue the "Learn All Things" ideology and spray the bay and cab.






Picked up another jack to get under the vette without having to use ramps. It’s from HF, but it’s actually pretty nice


Rebranded



Bought a press too since I’ve been wanting one for a while and I’ll need it for dimple dies




Then I had the idea that if I was going to through the trouble of spraying the interior, I may as well cage it now. So of course, instead of buying a cage, I had to stay true to the theme and build the cage myself. Over the course of the next several months, I researched a great deal, ordered parts, and built what I needed.


Settled on a JD2 Model 32




July 2016

JD2 Notchmaster



Bendtech Pro




JD2 1.75” Die came in


Learning the software








August 2016

Put together a close model with some actual measurements so I could get the tube ordered





Picked up tube





Getting the base plate locations cleaned up

blackened

iTrader: (10)

September 2016

Base plates for the main hoop











Picked up a needler and a mini sander to get into the tight areas



Started bending the main hoop





















Hoop X-braces

















Rear down tubes















Front down tubes

blackened

iTrader: (10)

October 2016

Driver’s side front down tube







Down tube support





Halo supports























Deadblow got a little away from me



Windshield removal. Tried a couple of tools but they didn’t work in the least, so I resorted to the brute force approach













Finally decided to do what I should’ve done a long time ago and remove the body harness and steering column





Cutting the floor to drop the cage

stomperxj

Nice work man. Good progress...

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

Wow thats hardcore man! Great job. I keep going back and forth if I want a roll cage or not....still havent decided how much street driving and how much track driving my turbo LS swapped Z31 will see....

blackened

iTrader: (10)

Thanks guys!