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Fair enough. I am of the school of thought that you need to loop the hoses (or have a heater core) and also have a restrictor. I've done this on all my swaps and never had a overheating issue, even in a RX7 with a very small grill. Just a datum point for you.
Andrew
FYI
Looping them is actually the incorrect thing to do. Obviously its not going to cause a melt down but the system is less efficient with the heater lines looped than plugged. It separates the high and low side of the system. Looping them lowers the overall flow rate.
When cold, the LS system actually has a large oriface that allows the high and low sides to mix to help the engine warm up more quickly. As the thermo opens it extends a block off plate into this opening to keep the high/low sides separate. Which is much more efficient flow/cooling wise.
This is also why if you remove the thermostat without blocking off the high/low side bleed orifice the car cools poorly. If you plug this oriface (i used a freeze plug in mine) and remove the thermostat you will improve overall flow and cooling. Which isn't optimal for a daily driver, but great for a race car with a tiny radiator like I run.
Ya I have seen the fab work on Nismo Kids (know him from the Z31 forums back in the day also)...I guess he paid a shop to do it, but either way it was probably worth the coin as it is clean! I am doing all of mine myself, here is a pic:
Nice work blackened! I took my core support out too. It makes removing the engine so much easier & faster. I dig that dipstick. I may have to pick 1 of those up for myself lol. Oh and beautiful Pit by the way.
Originally Posted by roastin240
Ya I have seen the fab work on Nismo Kids (know him from the Z31 forums back in the day also)...I guess he paid a shop to do it, but either way it was probably worth the coin as it is clean!
Everything on my build was done inside a 2 car garage by close friend & myself. We tend to help each other out . It may resemble shop work due to both of our previous careers were in the professional automotive industry. But It's a 100% home built car. Thanks for the complement John. Matt(FlawleZ) & I were just talking about you the other day. Glad to see your still around & making good progress on your Z.
Well you sir are a much better fabricator than me! Keep it up, your setup is unique and very visually attractive! ha ha I just cant make these TIGS look "professional"....some day
Looping them is actually the incorrect thing to do. Obviously its not going to cause a melt down but the system is less efficient with the heater lines looped than plugged. It separates the high and low side of the system. Looping them lowers the overall flow rate.
When cold, the LS system actually has a large oriface that allows the high and low sides to mix to help the engine warm up more quickly. As the thermo opens it extends a block off plate into this opening to keep the high/low sides separate. Which is much more efficient flow/cooling wise.
This is also why if you remove the thermostat without blocking off the high/low side bleed orifice the car cools poorly. If you plug this oriface (i used a freeze plug in mine) and remove the thermostat you will improve overall flow and cooling. Which isn't optimal for a daily driver, but great for a race car with a tiny radiator like I run.
Thank you for the information sir!
Originally Posted by Nismo Kid
Nice work blackened! I took my core support out too. It makes removing the engine so much easier & faster. I dig that dipstick. I may have to pick 1 of those up for myself lol. Oh and beautiful Pit by the way.
Thanks man, yeah I wanted to finish the project with the core support intact, but it wore me down and out came the recip! She definitely looks like a Pit, but she's actually an American Bully, and she thinks she's a lap dog lol
Originally Posted by roastin240
Well you sir are a much better fabricator than me! Keep it up, your setup is unique and very visually attractive! ha ha I just cant make these TIGS look "professional"....some day
Unsolicited commentary alert ... your welds look pretty good and the cart looks great. I might suggest a bit more heat so they don't pile up on top of the joints so much. Then again, 1/4" is pretty thick on the trans crossmember.
I'd have my 200 amp MIG machine turned to WOT with material that this. And probably my TIG to 250 amp - its WOT setting.
Everyone develops their own preferences. But for a small weld (less than 2" long with thick material) the setting chart on the machine might be too low.
Another option is chamfering the to-be-welded edges so you begin welding at the bottom of the joint.
Unsolicited commentary alert ... your welds look pretty good and the cart looks great. I might suggest a bit more heat so they don't pile up on top of the joints so much. Then again, 1/4" is pretty thick on the trans crossmember.
I'd have my 200 amp MIG machine turned to WOT with material that this. And probably my TIG to 250 amp - its WOT setting.
Everyone develops their own preferences. But for a small weld (less than 2" long with thick material) the setting chart on the machine might be too low.
Another option is chamfering the to-be-welded edges so you begin welding at the bottom of the joint.
Doug
Thanks man, any constructive criticism is welcomed as the entirety of my instruction has been via youtube and google!
As for the heat, I had that 110 welder all the way up on that 1/4" so I'm certain it wasn't generating enough heat, but its all I had at the moment and I figured since it was on the edges and I could hit it from both sides, it'd be enough penetration
Pre-heat the thick stuff with a propane or MAP torch. It gives the small MIG a head start on the joint.
Originally Posted by DW SD
Given the low amp rating, definitely chamfer all joints plus pre-heating as suggested.
Thanks for the help guys, I'll definitely incorporate them next time I'm dealing with thicker steel, which should be when I start the rear sub frame swap
I’ve been extremely busy with many things; however, there is still progress being made, albeit slowly. Backfilling since my last update:
May 2016
Picked up a flare kit and deburr tool for the BMC line
Picked up a plasma cutter
New house with a two-car garage, DOUBLE THE SPACE!
June 2016
Back out. Should be for the last time hopefully
Here's where I let the scope of the project run a bit rampant. Decided I wanted to continue the "Learn All Things" ideology and spray the bay and cab.
Picked up another jack to get under the vette without having to use ramps. It’s from HF, but it’s actually pretty nice
Rebranded
Bought a press too since I’ve been wanting one for a while and I’ll need it for dimple dies
Then I had the idea that if I was going to through the trouble of spraying the interior, I may as well cage it now. So of course, instead of buying a cage, I had to stay true to the theme and build the cage myself. Over the course of the next several months, I researched a great deal, ordered parts, and built what I needed.
Settled on a JD2 Model 32
July 2016
JD2 Notchmaster
Bendtech Pro
JD2 1.75” Die came in
Learning the software
August 2016
Put together a close model with some actual measurements so I could get the tube ordered
Wow thats hardcore man! Great job. I keep going back and forth if I want a roll cage or not....still havent decided how much street driving and how much track driving my turbo LS swapped Z31 will see....
Wow thats hardcore man! Great job. I keep going back and forth if I want a roll cage or not....still havent decided how much street driving and how much track driving my turbo LS swapped Z31 will see....
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. It may resemble shop work due to both of our previous careers were in the professional automotive industry. But It's a 100% home built car. Thanks for the complement John. Matt(FlawleZ) & I were just talking about you the other day. Glad to see your still around & making good progress on your Z
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... your welds look pretty good and the cart looks great. I might suggest a bit more heat so they don't pile up on top of the joints so much. Then again, 1/4" is pretty thick on the trans crossmember.
