CapoThDon

iTrader: (1)

So first attempt at putting my engine in, and since I'm working on unlevel ground I can't pull up next to the car and pull it sideways underneath because of the hoist (in the way). I seen pic of a couple guys making wood apparatuses to hold the car up with Jack stands. maybe come from the front of the car.

I was wondering if anyone has done that? And second I need to get these wheels off, but they are held on by one lug that I can't find a pattern for. Where can I get it, and what is it called ( size and demisions) I don't have it.
Hoist in the way.




Unlevel ground and not a ton of room.




And this one bolt I don't have a socket for

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

You could always get a socket that just barely starts on it and hammer it down. Requires sacrificing a socket most times though. Either that or a rounded bolt extractor kit.

KyleW707

As for getting the engine in, I always go from the front. If I'm not using a lift, I usually place two cinder blocks side by side and place the jackstand on top. Don't know if this will work for you, depending on how unlevel the ground is. You could always use something to shim up the blocks so they sit evenly. As for the lug nut, buy an extractor socket. I had to do the same with mine when I first bought it.

Casey96SS

I think you just need to get the front end higher while it sits on the jack stands so you can get the hoist out of the way. I used two pretty heavy duty jack stands when I did mine. I am not sure using smaller jack stands on wood platforms would be real safe. Maybe if the back tires were on the ground, that would help too due to the angle the car would be sitting at.

In my second pic here there is no tension on the hoist. The car is sitting on the jack stands.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...l#post19202791

CapoThDon

iTrader: (1)

That's what I was hinting at, hold it up long enough for me to push the engine under and hook the hoist back up. 5 mins tops. Under the car is level but one side is grass the other is unlevel as you can see. I think cynder blocks will do it, I only needed like 3 more inches. I guess as far as the wheels go sacrifice a socket. Cause the bolt extractor I have says I need a air tool that I don't have to remove it.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

I used two big jacks, one on each side at the traditional jack points on the car. Working with two people and a lot of communication, if you move slowly, IMHO this is the best way unless you have an overhead crane. The real key is to get the strut tower bolts through the body and sock in the 6 k-member bolts. Once that's done, its pretty straight forward after that.


EDIT: I also strongly recommend at this point, before you roll everything back into the car, to check fuel and brake lines, this is the point at which it is the easiest to replace any of them. Especially the main leg for the rear brakes. Also, another point of focus when rolling the assembly back under is to make sure your shifter makes it through the hole in the car. It might take a few tries to get everything perfectly aligned (the whole assembly may be off to the left or right and you'll have to wheel out and roll back under). Patience is a virtue. All in all, we were under the car and bolted up in a half hour from when we started.

CapoThDon

iTrader: (1)

LT1FirebirdSLP what numbers is your car putting down to the ground, my setup is similar? But I will get it done. It's a process.