Dropping Motor - Body Lifting Points?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 179
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From: Utica, IL
Dropping Motor - Body Lifting Points? Going to be dropping my motor out for the first time tomorrow. I have at my disposal:
(2) 2" x 6-Ft slings designed for lifting
(1) big *** shackle
2 ton cherry picker
I was thinking of trying to loop the straps through the front sway bar mounting points and combine them with the shackle at the cherry picker. Anybody ever try this? It looks like the sway bar mounts are tied into a few spots on the front frame.
I have read about guys using the upper rad support but I am a little concerned about bending the lip up on it.
Open to any other suggestions too. Thanks!
(2) 2" x 6-Ft slings designed for lifting
(1) big *** shackle
2 ton cherry picker
I was thinking of trying to loop the straps through the front sway bar mounting points and combine them with the shackle at the cherry picker. Anybody ever try this? It looks like the sway bar mounts are tied into a few spots on the front frame.
I have read about guys using the upper rad support but I am a little concerned about bending the lip up on it.
Open to any other suggestions too. Thanks!
Do an "engine out the bottom" search on here and other f-body forums and maybe even google and you should find some examples.
All I did was use 2X4 blocks just behind the two plastic pads and two good floor jacks as well as a furniture dolly for the k-member. Did not have to jack up the rear tires at all.
All I did was use 2X4 blocks just behind the two plastic pads and two good floor jacks as well as a furniture dolly for the k-member. Did not have to jack up the rear tires at all.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Utica, IL
Do an "engine out the bottom" search on here and other f-body forums and maybe even google and you should find some examples.
All I did was use 2X4 blocks just behind the two plastic pads and two good floor jacks as well as a furniture dolly for the k-member. Did not have to jack up the rear tires at all.
All I did was use 2X4 blocks just behind the two plastic pads and two good floor jacks as well as a furniture dolly for the k-member. Did not have to jack up the rear tires at all.
The sway bar mounts worked great. Kept the back wheels on the ground too. Just had to remove the air dam and front wheels. Did not even remove the fans or radiator.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
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From: Kernersville, NC
Looks like you have the job done, but I'll throw in my $0.02.
I used all thread rod bent in a U shape through the shock tower bolt holes with a chain and hooks between them. We have a local hardware supplier who had some special made washers, for another company, that worked well on the back side to distribute the load. I think I also put 2 or 3 nuts on them as well.
http://ace1252.com/LT1_Removal_From_...ock_towers.jpg
http://ace1252.com/LT1_Removal_From_Bottom/LT1_Pull.jpg
http://ace1252.com/LT1_Removal_From_...y_4_stands.jpg
I used all thread rod bent in a U shape through the shock tower bolt holes with a chain and hooks between them. We have a local hardware supplier who had some special made washers, for another company, that worked well on the back side to distribute the load. I think I also put 2 or 3 nuts on them as well.
http://ace1252.com/LT1_Removal_From_...ock_towers.jpg
http://ace1252.com/LT1_Removal_From_Bottom/LT1_Pull.jpg
http://ace1252.com/LT1_Removal_From_...y_4_stands.jpg
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
I snagged the tower idea from the guys who were using the strut tower braces to lift the body. I don't have a tower brace yet, so that's what dear ole Dad and I came up with. The chain and hooks came from the local Northern Tool store.
I think I saw someone use wood stands on either here or camaroz28.com. I used jackstands one time....
http://ace1252.com/LT1_Removal_From_Bottom/DSCN2569.jpg
While it worked, I was very nervous about how the front of the body was sitting on them. With all wood stands, I feel much more secure in how the body sits on them.
You can also see in the above picture the chains that I had wrapped around the front frame rails hanging down. That was such a pain in trying to avoid wiring harness damage, that I started looking into the tower idea.
The 2x4 stand for the k-member works well too. It's tall enough to get a jack under to pull out the engine and trans.
Set up the rear of the car in wheels, the front of the body low on jack stands, shove the 2x4 engine frame under the k-member, put a chain across both heads using bolts in the holes in front of the heads(bolts that go deep into the holes), use the lift on that chain to just lift the body off the jacks, zip out the 6 k-member bolts with an impact, then slowly lower the body back on the jacks, and continue down with the k-member to the 2x4 engine stand(with trans crossmember unbolted too...and a small jack strapped under it). That's a slick way to lower the engine down to the ground without using floor jacks under the k-member. However, you do need a lift with a long boom to clear the nose of the car.
From there, put the chain across the towers, carefully lift the front of the body, secure it down, then jack and roll out the engine/trans.
I think I saw someone use wood stands on either here or camaroz28.com. I used jackstands one time....
http://ace1252.com/LT1_Removal_From_Bottom/DSCN2569.jpg
While it worked, I was very nervous about how the front of the body was sitting on them. With all wood stands, I feel much more secure in how the body sits on them.
You can also see in the above picture the chains that I had wrapped around the front frame rails hanging down. That was such a pain in trying to avoid wiring harness damage, that I started looking into the tower idea.
The 2x4 stand for the k-member works well too. It's tall enough to get a jack under to pull out the engine and trans.
Set up the rear of the car in wheels, the front of the body low on jack stands, shove the 2x4 engine frame under the k-member, put a chain across both heads using bolts in the holes in front of the heads(bolts that go deep into the holes), use the lift on that chain to just lift the body off the jacks, zip out the 6 k-member bolts with an impact, then slowly lower the body back on the jacks, and continue down with the k-member to the 2x4 engine stand(with trans crossmember unbolted too...and a small jack strapped under it). That's a slick way to lower the engine down to the ground without using floor jacks under the k-member. However, you do need a lift with a long boom to clear the nose of the car.
From there, put the chain across the towers, carefully lift the front of the body, secure it down, then jack and roll out the engine/trans.
Last edited by ACE1252; Mar 28, 2016 at 12:25 AM.
Good deal. I just don't understand why every example I've seen the car was jacked up two feet off the floor before raising the front end. Seems pointless IMO.
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TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
Are you referring to the back wheels being off the ground?
The body does not have to be lifted to such a high angle, plus it allows for more room to move around under the rear of the car. You technically might not have to remove the torque arm from the rear end, but I do that step....nice to have the car lifted up in the rear to get to the axle...I also have to unbolt my catback from the frame to slide it backwards to clear the y-pipe....so I have to get back there for that as well.
Having the rear tires sitting in some old wheels also makes it very hard for the back end to start rolling on ya....no need to worry about keeping on the parking brake.
Certainly not mandatory to lift the rear by any means, but I guess it depends on what work needs to be done to the car(depending on the mods).
The biggest reason, to me, for lifting the rear off the ground is the angle of the body. The more angle you have, the more side load that will be applied to the jacks by the body when you set the body on them....which increases the risk of the jacks getting thrown forward out from underneath the car....and then the body comes crashing down. Me personally, I'm not comfortable with the angle of the OP's car body in relation to how it sits on the jacks.
The body does not have to be lifted to such a high angle, plus it allows for more room to move around under the rear of the car. You technically might not have to remove the torque arm from the rear end, but I do that step....nice to have the car lifted up in the rear to get to the axle...I also have to unbolt my catback from the frame to slide it backwards to clear the y-pipe....so I have to get back there for that as well.
Having the rear tires sitting in some old wheels also makes it very hard for the back end to start rolling on ya....no need to worry about keeping on the parking brake.
Certainly not mandatory to lift the rear by any means, but I guess it depends on what work needs to be done to the car(depending on the mods).
The biggest reason, to me, for lifting the rear off the ground is the angle of the body. The more angle you have, the more side load that will be applied to the jacks by the body when you set the body on them....which increases the risk of the jacks getting thrown forward out from underneath the car....and then the body comes crashing down. Me personally, I'm not comfortable with the angle of the OP's car body in relation to how it sits on the jacks.
Last edited by ACE1252; Mar 28, 2016 at 03:53 PM.
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 179
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From: Utica, IL
One thing I found out yesterday was that no matter how you remove your engine, it is a hundred times easier working on your engine when you can sit right next to it. Should have just dropped it out last year when I did my heads and cam. I would have been days ahead and it would have been a better end result.
Yes, but I understand why it's done. I'd just prefer not to do it that way because even if the body doesn't have to be lifted at such an angle it still has to be supported at the front end and I don't jive with that 2x4 setup, and I feel more secure with the rear tires being on the ground. Nothing personal. Just not my thing. If I have to get under the car to remove the DS or maybe even the torque arm I don't do so until the car is leveled out and on jackstands. I just meant, in my opinion, it seems like wasted time to have to prop the car like that when it can be done on the ground.
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
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From: Kernersville, NC
Yes, but I understand why it's done. I'd just prefer not to do it that way because even if the body doesn't have to be lifted at such an angle it still has to be supported at the front end and I don't jive with that 2x4 setup, and I feel more secure with the rear tires being on the ground. Nothing personal. Just not my thing. If I have to get under the car to remove the DS or maybe even the torque arm I don't do so until the car is leveled out and on jackstands. I just meant, in my opinion, it seems like wasted time to have to prop the car like that when it can be done on the ground.
Just keep in mind though that the nails holding those 2x4s together hold houses together. I think the shear strength of the nails I used are up above 150psi(with way more nails in them than needed). Each 2x4 has a compression rating of around 5000 psi(I think...).
I didn't dare touch the body much on jack stands(it rocked pretty easy)...however, I can rock that car body all day long(side to side) with the 2x4 setup I've got and not worry about it falling.
To each his or her own in regards to how it's done(as it can be done many ways), just make sure to be safe.
Last edited by ACE1252; Mar 28, 2016 at 10:20 PM.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
One thing I found out yesterday was that no matter how you remove your engine, it is a hundred times easier working on your engine when you can sit right next to it. Should have just dropped it out last year when I did my heads and cam. I would have been days ahead and it would have been a better end result.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
I agee It's so much easier to work on. One question ACE, you use u bolts through the shock towers, What do you do when you drop it back on? do you set it on the K and bolt that up, then remove the u-bolts to attach the struts? I allways would go through the sway mounts and attach it all as it came down, just wondering because the strut towers would be an ideal spot to attach to as well.
I guess it depends on how high it's on the jackstands. I usually adjust the stands so it's solid enough to get underneath with confidence.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
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From: Kernersville, NC
I agee It's so much easier to work on. One question ACE, you use u bolts through the shock towers, What do you do when you drop it back on? do you set it on the K and bolt that up, then remove the u-bolts to attach the struts? I allways would go through the sway mounts and attach it all as it came down, just wondering because the strut towers would be an ideal spot to attach to as well.
I then put a chain across the front of the heads with long bolts as deep in the holes as they will go(into the accessory mounting holes), attach the lift to the middle of the chain and lift the engine/k-member to the body(while jacking the tranny as needed).....as it's hanging in the air, lining up the dowel pins on the k-member is easy. I also muscle and cuss the shocks back into the towers.
Next I lift the k-member all the way to the body and in the process lift the body off the front jack stands about 1/2 inch...I then torque up the 6 k-member bolts and set the body back down on the jack stands, jack up the trans to the body, zip in the cross member bolts, and then the engine/trans are back home.
So in summary, I use a chain across the heads to pull the engine back to the body with the engine lift.
I might(I'm not sure) have a few more pics....I'll try and dig them up.
Last edited by ACE1252; Mar 29, 2016 at 03:44 PM.
