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Excellent, thank you. I was able to find their website & also their Amazon store since I don't utilize eBay. Looking at their website shows that they offer a fair bit of stuff that could be useful for these swaps.
Yes they do..... I am using one of there low mount alt brackets on mine.....
Did a little work on the intake elbow this week..... Trimmed the throttle body mounting flange down to match the factory throttle body, I also took all the writing off the sides of it and added a couple 1/8"ntp holes for fittings..... Today I got the Holley 5 bar map mounted in the back of the intake plenum..... Then I got the elbow and throttle body bolted to the intake..... Last thing I did is finish making and installed all the water, fuel and vacuum hoses except for the blow off valve which I will take care of once it is mounted..... After I got done for the day at my shop I ran by work and made the initial cuts on tubes for the charge pipe.....
Here's what it's looking like under the hood now.....
Hey Frank...why the 5 bar? You're not going to run that much boost, so a lower value map sensor would offer better resolution.
Andrew
Upon a little investigation it looks like you are correct sir, you need to remember I am not a very high tech guy and sometimes it cost me..... When I bought this one I only seen a 1 or 5 bar in this screw in style, and I liked the fact I did not have to remote mount it and run a hose to it..... Now I see there is also a 3.5 and a 7 bar offered, I should probably get the 3.5 bar.....
No worries Frank. I have made plenty mistakes on my builds. We live and learn and hopefully other learn from our mistakes. How much boost are you planning on running?
No worries Frank. I have made plenty mistakes on my builds. We live and learn and hopefully other learn from our mistakes. How much boost are you planning on running?
Andrew
Probably in the 18-20 area, but it will be a bit of a slow process getting there..... I need to learn and understand this system before I get to aggressive with it, I really don't want to hurt anything just because I got in a hurry.....
Today I test fitted a couple bends I cut yesterday afternoon, looks like I need to make a little adjustment on the one at the throttle body..... I cut a little to much off the radius on the one at the turbo..... The one at the turbo is going to be a little closer to the hood then I would like, I need to find a 3" bend with a tighter radius or just go down to a 2.5" bend coming out of the turbo..... I have to figure that one out this afternoon.....
Then I fitted and install the throttle cable casing, I'll install the cable/core once the wiring is done and the intake is finally bolted on.....
I put the fuel level sender and filler neck in/on the fuel tank and set it in the car for test fitting..... I changed the pump in the Aeromotive fuel module to a pump that is compatible with E85, I have had the tank for a long time and the pump that was in it is not compatible with E85..... I had to change the wiring around a little so I am taking the module to work so I can solder the connections up, there is a much better soldering iron there then I have at my shop.....
I don't recall what you're using for engine management but Kavlico makes some lab grade pressure sensors that come with full spec sheets. 1BAR of range is used for driving. A 3BAR would allow close to 30PSI of boost. Honestly if the 5BAR sensor is quality and the ECU is good you should be fine using it. Less resolution but not so much as to give you issues, I've run them on two cars now and it's good not to run out of sensor. Some ECU will allow you to scale for the expected range of use.
I don't recall what you're using for engine management but Kavlico makes some lab grade pressure sensors that come with full spec sheets. 1BAR of range is used for driving. A 3BAR would allow close to 30PSI of boost. Honestly if the 5BAR sensor is quality and the ECU is good you should be fine using it. Less resolution but not so much as to give you issues, I've run them on two cars now and it's good not to run out of sensor. Some ECU will allow you to scale for the expected range of use.
Holley HP..... It was a Holley sensor..... I understand now what Andrew was saying, and I get what your saying too..... I think it will be better to use Holleys 3.5 bar, it will allow for more boost then I will run and allow for better resolution then the 5 bar would have.....
Got the new gauges I am going to use this week, so I put all the new sensors in this morning..... I also got a little work on the charge pipe done this week, I fitted the last piece this morning and got the blow off valve flange positioned so it can be welded..... I just did a little research so I can be sure where I want to put the IAT sensor for best results.....
I did get the wires soldered on the fuel pump module earlier this week, so I put the module assy in the fuel tank..... Then got a seal around the flange on the tank and installed the tank in the car..... After that I cut the flange off the fuel inlet tube that goes in the tail light panel..... I cleaned it up and painted is the install it in the rear panel so I could install the deluxe factory gas cap just for aesthetics(I am using the fill tube with a cap on the tank in the trunk so I don't have to deal with fuel seeping out when launching the car)..... I did put a screw through the rear panel in to the back of the cap so no one could take it.....
Figured out where I wanted to put the IAT sensor this morning and put it there..... I also got the charge pipe cleaned up inside and drilled for a 1/8" bung to mount the Boost-a -pump pressure switch in, then threw the pipe in the truck so I can get it welded together this week.....
Here's where I put the IAT.....
Then I removed the battery box so I could mount the Boost-a pump to the front side of it..... The reinstalled the box and started hooking up the wiring for the BAP..... I ran out of the connectors for the relay mount, I'll get some this week.....
Bingo..... Maintains a steady 13.5v even if the battery voltage is as low as 10v...... It also raises to 17.5v when at 3lbs or more of boost, which increases pump output by 75%..... I have used them before with no issues.....
Bingo..... Maintains a steady 13.5v even if the battery voltage is as low as 10v...... It also raises to 17.5v when at 3lbs or more of boost, which increases pump output by 75%..... I have used them before with no issues.....
So it uses a Hobbs switch to send a 12+ signal at 3 psi to increase voltage? Instead of using the Hobbs, you can create an output in the Holley software and wire it to the Boost-A-Pump, that way you can activate it at any psi you want. Unless you need the outputs for other functions...
So it uses a Hobbs switch to send a 12+ signal at 3 psi to increase voltage? Instead of using the Hobbs, you can create an output in the Holley software and wire it to the Boost-A-Pump, that way you can activate it at any psi you want. Unless you need the outputs for other functions...
Andrew
It uses a hobbs switch to connect 2 wires not necessarly 12 volts..... It states in the instructions not to connect + or - to either of the 2 wires because it will cause damage to the unit.....
But I could do what you are saying using a relay to connect the 2 wires..... Then I could trigger with either a + or - output..... I need to figure out exactly what I am using for inputs and outputs to know if I will have something available to use.....
OK...so the Hobbs is literally just a pressure activated switch. Once a certain pressure is reached, the switch is closed, thus completing the circuit.
It looks like the Boost-A-pump was developed for stock vehicles that were boosted but had no way of raising fuel pressure as manifold pressure increased. You already have a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator in your fuel system, so to me the Boost-A-pump is not needed and is just a source of an extra potential point of failure.
You simply have to boost reference your FPR and program the Holley EFI accordingly. When the regulator sees boost, it will automatically raise pressure 1:1 in order to maintain the effective pressure at the injectors constant. And I see in previous pictures that you have the FPR already referenced to manifold pressure. Done....
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I was able to find their website & also their Amazon store since I don't utilize eBay. Looking at their website shows that they offer a fair bit of stuff that could be useful for these swaps.
