LS1121

iTrader: (17)

I completed the driver side rebuild and wound up using a hammer to BEAT IN the lower control arm because I could not get the bolt holes to line up so I could install the bolts. Is it just me?????? I had to put in the rear bolt , the one that is vertical first then use some persuasion to get the front of the control arm into it's seat. It's like when I put the new bushings in it no longer fits?

Is there a correct way? I looked and found little to nothing on this topic. The manual is no help.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

The "tabs" that retain the a-arms can be "crushed" over time, as the bolts that retain the arms are tightened against them. Try to dress these surfaces with a file, if necessary. Keep in mind, the arms have to be able to slide around freely, in order to align the car.

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

There must be an issue with the driver side on my car because I had to beat it in not real bad but I needed a hammer on the passenger side I have plenty of room to get the lower control arm in. I cannot believe there is this much difference between the 2 sides. If I ever do this again (i doubt it) I will have to delve into this.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

There is a crushing action that happens on these points to capture and locate the lower control arms in the k-member. The stock k-member is made of fairly thin material and crushes and distorts more than an aftermarket piece. If installing arms on a stock k-member I normally try to open up the mounting areas a little to compensate first, then slide the arm into place. Tightening the bolts down will draw the k back into place and clamp the arm

jimmyg

This is what I did on my cutlass , I saw it on finnigens garage worked great

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

jimmyg....... today you're my Hero.

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

did it and it worked great. Car is at Firestone for the alignment.