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Old 11-17-2016, 07:26 AM
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I just read the entire thing. Cool build man I like how you did things your own way and didn't just copy other builds on here. I can't believe your turbine wheel just flew out the downpipe and didn't tear anything up. Usually they do serious damage and thats why NHRA mandated a cross beam built into the downpipe flange of the turbo.
Old 11-17-2016, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitroused383
I just read the entire thing. Cool build man I like how you did things your own way and didn't just copy other builds on here. I can't believe your turbine wheel just flew out the downpipe and didn't tear anything up. Usually they do serious damage and thats why NHRA mandated a cross beam built into the downpipe flange of the turbo.
Thanks man! I appreciate it. The whole goal with the car was make a fun car that I can drive everyday and rip out some mid 8's. Stinks I finally got it together and working so late in the year but thats fine. I have a few improvements to make on it over this winter anyways.

Yea that was nuts. I was puzzled for a while as to how that happened. I guess at the end of the day I was spinning a rod bearing and bearing material clogged the turbo bearing feed holes. Must have created a lot of heat. Id imagine it took some serious heat to cause that. Just not sure how. I made two identical 121/153 mph passes back to back and then boom! Broke.
We never did find it. a few of us paced that track looking too.
Old 11-19-2016, 08:42 PM
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damn, I am inspired now. I like the front end setup as well. Makes a BUNCH more space in these frickin F-bodies. I like the fact you are running a aluminum 5.3. I like the cage as well. MWC did their homework on fitment. How does is the coolant temp when running on the street with that radiator setup? I live in Fl, and you know how hot it gets down here...
Old 11-20-2016, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Corner Worker
damn, I am inspired now. I like the front end setup as well. Makes a BUNCH more space in these frickin F-bodies. I like the fact you are running a aluminum 5.3. I like the cage as well. MWC did their homework on fitment. How does is the coolant temp when running on the street with that radiator setup? I live in Fl, and you know how hot it gets down here...
I was living in ocala last year and it would not get hot if I cruised around. But if I got on the hwy and tried to cruise 65+mph it would creep up. If I cruised for 15-20hwy miles at 70mph Id have to pull off. It would go from 185's=220 degrees.
Old 11-20-2016, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackSS4thgen
I was living in ocala last year and it would not get hot if I cruised around. But if I got on the hwy and tried to cruise 65+mph it would creep up. If I cruised for 15-20hwy miles at 70mph Id have to pull off. It would go from 185's=220 degrees.
Yeah, that's what I figured. Im in the Tampa Bay area, between traffic and the 50mile drive to Bradenton, i need my car to cool. Regardless, its a fantastic location for the turbo and piping. Good stuff man.
Old 11-20-2016, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Corner Worker
Yeah, that's what I figured. Im in the Tampa Bay area, between traffic and the 50mile drive to Bradenton, i need my car to cool. Regardless, its a fantastic location for the turbo and piping. Good stuff man.
Thanks sir! I am going to redo some stuff over winter. I am thinking about an air to water just so I can relocate the radiator to the front and center for airflow. I just moved back to michigan so I have about 5 months of downtime which I am actually looking forward to. The car has had a long year so its time it has had a rest anyways lol
Old 11-20-2016, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackSS4thgen
Thanks sir! I am going to redo some stuff over winter. I am thinking about an air to water just so I can relocate the radiator to the front and center for airflow. I just moved back to michigan so I have about 5 months of downtime which I am actually looking forward to. The car has had a long year so its time it has had a rest anyways lol
So between the forged 5.3 and the SBE 6.0, which performed better? Did the actual 100lbs more weight really effect the performance? Im asking because Im in the middle of collecting parts for my 98 T/A turbo build. I contemplated on doing a forged piston/ good rod swap in my aluminum 5.7,or should a track down a iron 5.3? I know this debate has raged on ls1tech for years, but your build is almost exactly what I am planning for my ride.
Old 11-20-2016, 09:09 PM
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I had the same cam and heads in both motors. I did not notice much of a difference at all tbh. I absolutely hated the way my car felt with the iron block in it. The nose dived more left to right with turns. I could definitely feel it. Regardless of what people have said, the iron vs aluminum 5.3 is 103lbs difference. The l33 motors are strong. Cylinder walls are thick, cylinders are Siamese between the centers so there is no vertical movements, and it cools quicker.
I have seen people go 4.63@155 on that block filled and so far 5.1 without any block work at all. My buddy Jonathon Capizzi just went 7.9x with a complete sbe alum 5.3. They are strong.
Smaller displacement motors dont require such a large turbine to perform either. As why I chose a 5.3 so I could stick with a budget friendly s400 chassis turbo.
Old 11-20-2016, 09:14 PM
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Old 11-21-2016, 07:05 AM
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That's what I like to hear. Problem is, the L33 is becoming harder to find.
Old 12-01-2016, 10:09 PM
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I envy you my friend
Old 12-03-2016, 05:52 PM
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Im no one special man. Just an idiot with a strong work ethic and want to go fast! Anyone can do it!
Old 12-13-2016, 09:29 PM
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Someone recently sent me another video! Man I wish it wasnt 5 months until summer. I should have never moved back to michigan lol

Old 12-14-2016, 05:28 PM
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Nothing like a beautiful sounding, turbo LS motor man. Yeah, the weather sucks here in Tampa bay today....foggy mid 60's in the A.M. but, sunny and 75 this afternoon.
Old 12-14-2016, 09:19 PM
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I know man. It just got real bad up here and all of my friends down south are sure to text me and rub it in. lol
Old 01-29-2017, 09:46 AM
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Sold my billet specialties.
Sold my intercooler.
Sold my transmission, convertor, driveshaft.
Supposed to be selling my rear end soon.

Going with a powerglide, air to water, welds, and hopefully a lighter rear axle.
Hoping to have 200lbs saved on the car by spring.
If budget allows A set of trick flow as cast 220's and front and rear drag brakes.
If I do the brakes itll be nearly 275lbs I can get out of the car. I have been excersizing to get down from 230-200!
2017 is going to be a good year!!
Old 01-29-2017, 10:00 AM
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Can't wait to see what it does then!!
Old 01-29-2017, 11:01 AM
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I got a buddy in the market for a rearend. When you plan on selling?
Old 01-29-2017, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Taubr Unit
I got a buddy in the market for a rearend. When you plan on selling?
I have a guy sort of local to me that wants it pretty bad in the next couple weeks. If he dosent buy it I can let you know. I didnt really want to upgrade the rear end but if I can save a few pounds at this point I might just do it. I told him $1,600 without brakes or $2,100 with the billet specialties and trade rear brakes. Since I spent so much time grinding these to fit the wheels they have to stay with the wheels and or axle and wheels.
Ford case, hughes tq arm adapter, 3.50 richmond pro gear, moser spool and axles.
Selling my bullseye for $1,650 shipped if anyone is interested also. 80mm tct
Old 01-30-2017, 05:21 PM
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$1,650 shipped. Someone take this off my hands so I can go bigger!
Thats half price!









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