A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

A plus



B plus



C equals



AB



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[I]ABC[I]

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Gravity bled new slave cylinder
Pedal went to the floor twice, pumped it three more times.
Wallah. Have operational clutch. Tis' better to be lucky
Than good

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Apparently spoke too soon. Car runs and drives nice. Clutch pedal feels terrific but trans still grinds entering second gear only. Have to ease the pedal Out slowly while pulling hard on the shifter to get it to grab the teeth and engage. Needless to say trying to normal shift it just grinds and refuses to go in. Almost identical to pre trans removal. I know RPM did the trans right so I'm guessing my shifter sucks from one two power shifts or my factory master is acting up. Not too sure yet

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

You still have the factory master in there? Replace that ASAP.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

The Colorado Speed dude said the factory C5 master is actually a decent piece
If he was a salesman, why wouldn't he have just said:"the Tick master is the only one to have if you plan to shift into second gear faster than a cadaver"???
LOL
I suppose I should consider a quality shifter as well too ???

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

You're right, the factory C5 master isn't a bad piece. What I meant was, do you still have the "original" factory master in there? The one that came with the car when it was brand spanking new. If it is, or if it's many years old, do yourself a favor and replace it with at least a new factory replacement. It's not worth the risk of a new built transmission because of an old $100 master that may likely have deteriorating internal seals. I found this the hard way in my C5.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Spoke with Shane @ RPM via email and his official determination is/was the same as Cowboy, that my old *** factory master should be replaced He suggested the Tick over the GM. So it's ordered and shipped. Should get it in next week.

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

Of course the Tick is hands down a better unit, but there's nothing wrong with using a factory C5 master. Its just a maintenance piece that should be replaced every so many miles or so many years, regardless if there's signs of failure or not. Also, regularly bleed the clutch fluid about every or every other oil change to keep the master cylinder internal seals and slave cylinder very happy. This is one of those things that's often neglected with manual trans cars, and why a remote speed bleeder is highly recommended. Couple things Mike Yeager (r.i.p.) of East Coast Performance Corvettes shared with me.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Tick master installed and adjusted. Other than a stiffer pedal; no change Second gear barely engages, unless you pull hard on the shifter and ease out on the clutch. Then a buddy suggested adjusting the factory shifter
Tore the dash/console apart and slid the shifter box all the way forward
Also retightened the collar on the shift tube in a slightly different spot
Seems to have worked well. Second shifts pretty normal other than the potential synchro damage already incurred. Hoping I'm fine from here on out and I may still get a Hurst shifter just for the shorter throw

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

MGW shifter?

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Another great option



Seat gone



Way up in there



Inner gender view



Tick mounted to bracket assembly



Allen heads ground down for clearance