dogsballs

In the final process of building a high higb comp and high revving 750+hp alloy block na motor, that may also see a bit of nitrous. Talking with engine builder about grouting the block to the lower water pump holes to increase rigidity and keep the bores from moving about. This car will see street miles 100%. I've heard that the oil can get pretty hot after an hour or so of street driving. I've got no issues running an oil cooler, but still running an internal oil pump, which might be pushing the friendship a bit far. As much as I'd like to I'm in no financial position to buy an external oil pump or dry sump.

Anyone with experience in street driven grouted blocks?

Double06

Just get a Superdeck 1 LS block from ERL can take a lot more power and no need to grout the block cools just fine. They even have now a nifty option where they cut out the lifter galley area and you can put lifters in without taking the heads off.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

This is done VERY often by OEM's to add engine life, a life increase from more even cylinder wall temperature.
NOT a "grout" method, a method of casting change designed to "fill" the same area with casting material.

The ring life @ 160* jacket temperature IS 10X LESS than that of a 220* jacket temperature.
This design is MORE common on German engines, for good reason.

UNDERSTAND, the material used to "rock" your block MUST CURE (30 days+) BEFORE a hone is run.

Remember combustion heat is released about 90* ATDC, this is cam dependent.

Lance

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

i would not do it, builds a lot of heat for a street cruiser, and get caught in traffic, temps go way up. We did a BBC this way years ago, it became a drag engine only after a few days of testing.