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Another weekend down and I am getting closer. Worked on a whole bunch of busy work things that really could not be documented. But I did manage to get Jason to weld up my oil cooler, still need to fit up the shroud and mounting hardware. Also took a picture of the clearance work I had to do to the rear bumper to clear the cold side cooling line out of the water pump. I should be able to start the car next weekend.
I did not get to fire the engine this weekend, I forgot that my wife was having a party and only had the chance to work Sunday in the garage. But, I did manage to build my rear muffler mounts and get them welded on. Plus, I got the O2 bungs welded into the down pipes. I took longer then I thought it would, beings I had to pull the exhaust system on and off the car a few times and also had to have the rear bumper on and off the car a few time to make sure things fit right. Here is a shot of the exhaust, before it goes back in the car. I still have to weld the tips on, but will wait to do that once the rear bumper is finally mounted back on the car.
Looking good and getting me motivated to get my *** moving on my project and thinking I will order adapter plate soon. Back on post 102 where did you get those 10 AN to 3/4" hose fittings? Could you send a summary of the fittings and bungs you used for your coolant lines and reservoir? Recall you had some trial-n-error to get it right and I want to avoid the same mistakes
Looking good and getting me motivated to get my *** moving on my project and thinking I will order adapter plate soon. Back on post 102 where did you get those 10 AN to 3/4" hose fittings? Could you send a summary of the fittings and bungs you used for your coolant lines and reservoir? Recall you had some trial-n-error to get it right and I want to avoid the same mistakes
I built my own 10 AN to 3/4" hose fittings. As for the fitting summary for the reservoir and cooling lines. I used a 1/8" NTP to 10 AN to come out the bottom hose barb of the reservoir, then used a 180 10 AN to 3/4" hose that I built. The other 10 AN to 3/4" hose, that I built are (2) 90's and (1) 45. Plus I welded a 10 AN male on each cooling line and built a 1 1/2" tee with a 10 AN male welded on it. The hot side out of the water pump is necked down to 1 1/4, via a silicon hose reducer.
Thanks, im ordering my fitting this week and thinking the heater core lines I can do 10 AN to 10 AN push lock barbs. Need to get under the car tonight and verify the hose sizes for a 997.
Originally Posted by 4LUX
I built my own 10 AN to 3/4" hose fittings. As for the fitting summary for the reservoir and cooling lines. I used a 1/8" NTP to 10 AN to come out the bottom hose barb of the reservoir, then used a 180 10 AN to 3/4" hose that I built. The other 10 AN to 3/4" hose, that I built are (2) 90's and (1) 45. Plus I welded a 10 AN male on each cooling line and built a 1 1/2" tee with a 10 AN male welded on it. The hot side out of the water pump is necked down to 1 1/4, via a silicon hose reducer.
Thanks, im ordering my fitting this week and thinking the heater core lines I can do 10 AN to 10 AN push lock barbs. Need to get under the car tonight and verify the hose sizes for a 997.
12 AN push lock works with 3/4". 10 AN works with 5/8" hose, the 996 heater hose was 20 mm, so the 3/4" hose had to be dipped in hot water to squeeze over the barb fitting.
Thanks, im ordering my fitting this week and thinking the heater core lines I can do 10 AN to 10 AN push lock barbs. Need to get under the car tonight and verify the hose sizes for a 997.
I built the 10 AN to 3/4" because 12 AN fitting are really big and did not fit in the limited area we have in these cars. Thinking back now, I ran 10 AN push lock on the bottom of the coolant tank to the Main Pipe with 5/8" hose on it for space issues.
Sorry if this has already been addressed (I re-read the thread a couple of times).....but what made you decide to cap off the heater in/out on the waterpump and run a "T" off your main coolant hoses? Was it strictly for cosmetic reasons, or something else?
Sorry if this has already been addressed (I re-read the thread a couple of times).....but what made you decide to cap off the heater in/out on the waterpump and run a "T" off your main coolant hoses? Was it strictly for cosmetic reasons, or something else?
Thanks in advance. Killer build!!
The heater lines out of the WP would be in conflict with the engine mount. There is not enough space to allow them to be used and clear the engine mount.
I just read your discussion on post 48 – 84…
4LUX & DW SD, I might be a little late with this suggestion...
You can create a low speed fans by running the 2 fans in series and eliminating the resistors. Much more efficient and the individual motors will run at one-fourth their full power rating, so they are fairly quiet. Most GM dual fans are wired this way in the 90’s to present. Uses 3 relays (two 4 pin and one 5 pin).
Here it is in action (looks like 93 - 02 Camaro 150Watt motors):
I just read your discussion on post 48 – 84…
4LUX & DW SD, I might be a little late with this suggestion...
You can create a low speed fans by running the 2 fans in series and eliminating the resistors. Much more efficient and the individual motors will run at one-fourth their full power rating, so they are fairly quiet. Most GM dual fans are wired this way in the 90’s to present. Uses 3 relays (two 4 pin and one 5 pin).
Here it is in action (looks like 93 - 02 Camaro 150Watt motors): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3IinhYkAP8
Nice info, Thanks. The only issue that I see is the new ECU cooling fan controls are negative/ ground controlled. This diagram looks to be positive switched as is the demo video.
Its all ground control by ECM The power to the relay coils enters from the 2 fuses at the top. The ECM provides the grounds.
Ground C1 that gives you series. (1/4 power)
Ground C1 and C2 that gives you full power.
Most GM discrete dual fans control this way.
4LUX
Just a caution on blocking the heater ports on the H2O pump. The thermostat needs coolant flow past it in order to open and control properly. If your thermostat bypass (the spring loaded plate at the back of the thermostat) does not have holes, and sits flush in the water pump housing … you will need to add holes.
Also, the heater plumbing will not have any flow at all when the thermostat is closed with the manner you have it plumbed – probably OK for you in Vegas.
Biggest drawback I see in coolant plumbing is at the surge tank (expansion tank). This will have ZERO degass flow UNTIL the thermostat opens. Air that is trapped at the heads or top of the PCAR front radiators will not move to the “expansion tank”. You want the bottom port of that tank to have suction regardless of thermostat open or closed. This will allow flow to carry trapped air to the tank as soon as the engine is started. That tank lower port should be routed to behind the thermostat (essentially the heater return port that you welded). This can still be accomplished by tapping the housing (the front port, or I guess rear port in PCAR orientation)… see pictures of 74MODIFIED in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ter-pipes.html
Plumbed properly, you won’t have any issues burping the air after a couple of cycles + IT WILL STAY PACKED + STAY COOL.
I know... a lot of comments well after your buttoning this up.
11-28-2016, 09:47 AM
