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If I had a setup which was pretty solid, except it kept overheating or creeping in temp. There are other things i would do before taking apart my hard work (plumbing and such). Instead, try wrapping the hot parts of the engine. Add blankets, thick fire blankets to the motor anywhere it gets hot. Keep that temp rise out of the engine bay. Add shields to reflect the temp, coatings to insulate, and being turbo I would project a strong shield between the hot and cold sides of the turbochargers, i.e. insulate the hot side like we just discussed away from the cold sides. Water cooled center sections are a big plus for street cars.
Also, make sure you have a full complement of ignition timing during any normal driving / cruise. You will want an EGT gauge to ensure your cruise exhaust temps are not excessive, add timing and review data-logs to ensure that it is advanced far enough to keep the EGT down within a reasonable range. I generally apply a cruise control (to eliminate transient fueling) and then gradually increment timing both directions, find the number which results with a creeping EGT, then advance timing to find the diminishing returns, the duty cycle will be lower and engine vacuum higher as you move away from creeping EGT.
Car is not turbo'd, its supercharged. exhaust isn't heating the engine bay.
The tune is mostly stock, the timing has been reduced but still very high in the light load/cruising areas. A/F is more rich than lean on the throttle. I have an EGT gauge that I'm going to be installing in the exhaust.
The heat rise is only during throttle/accel when speeds are lower, below 45mph roughly. if I coast or light throttle the engine temps will drop even below the 45mph limit. Giving it gas causes quick heat buildup. I can only assume its due to the supercharger as it builds boost very easily and low in the RPM. I just need either more AIR or coolant to help dissipate the heat faster.
"The trans cooler isn't blocking flow it's the giant IC"....Don't think that's an accurate assumption.
Might not be. But I can't run the cooler anywhere else, too large to put anywhere else. A smaller one is an option but Still have no location for it. If I wasn't running a stock style catback it would go where the muffler was with a fan and be done.
But the fact that the 3.25" thick IC caused the issue its safe to say that the IC is blocking the airflow more than the trans cooler behind it which never gave me a problem before the IC install. I ran this same setup with just meth injection and decided I needed a IC to help lower temps on the street. Without the FMIC engine temps never got over 170/180 EVER!
Sure the trans cooler is blocking some airflow but the IC is blocking alot more.
Your problem is air flow . Been thru this . Change out trans cooler for a tru cool 45000. They are only 8.5 h x22L X1.25 cost around 100$ Keep it down low. I have this with same fans w/ air 2w heat x in front. Trans temps never see 140. Ac on in traffic , 95 outside , car might run 185-190. The derale 4000cfm set up uses spal fans
Just thought I'd update. I received my new flowkooler high flow water pump and got it painted in wrinkle black finish. I also tested the mr gasket 160, and 180 as well as the stant stock 185 Tstat trying to get accurate opening temps. They are all pretty close except they tend to open alittle later than advertised. Interesting to find that the stand had a much larger opening than the high flow mr gaskets. I tried to figure out how to get the stand to open earlier but couldn't get it too. I'm going to stick with the 160 and just drilled 2 more holes for a total of three 1/8" holes and have one right at 12 oclock. I installed the Tstat and water neck onto the waterpump. I believe this waterpump is going to make a noticeable difference in cooling at lower Rpms. They say 3x more Coolant from idle to 3k then it reverts back to stock ish so you don't cavitate. I ran one on my 521 BBf and it solved my cooling issue on that as well.
Haven't decided if I'm dropping the intercooler size yet. The one I'm looking at is only like $60. I pulled out my old b&m supercooler trans cooler 19,000gvw I think and gave it a good cleaning. Not sure if I'm going to remove my giant ford trans cooler and run this but I picked up some fittings to reduce back to -6 off the permacool trans thermostat if I decide to. My only concern is that since I'm not running a trans cooler in the rad my external has to be able to handle the heat.
Also picked up some new black billet waterpump spacers to
replace the oring style I have now. The new ones use regular gaskets and I picked up a few sets of the good (not paper) gaskets so I have enough.
motor is stripped down and almost ready to come out. Just need to disconnect from the trans and converter and yank it.
Still contemplating the intercooler reduction. Technically I've been told I don't need it bc I have the meth and my boost is so low 10-12psi. Since I'm keeping the meth the intercooler is just there to help keep overall charge temps down and the meth will take care of the detonation and any last min cooling. So I feel like stepping down the intercooler size won't be a bad thing. The only issue is will it flow enough. It says it's rated to 500hp max and it flows 350cuft/min. Basically I would be maxing that out already and my custom cam and ported heads should put me around 650hp. I don't want it to be a restriction and that's why I'm hesistant.
Odd your having such heat issues with your setup on city streets. My car has never seen over 200* .And Im running mostly stock components. Stock waterpump,t-stat,stock rad,stock dual fans,stock airdam. My intercooler is close in size and yes i know how tight our cars are for fitting a cooler..I dont recommend going smaller honestly.But slight difference in our cars i think you have a 90-92 bumper but airflow design under the car is the same with my 86 bumper. Im a stick car so dont need a trans cooler inbetween the ic and rad....I also did not mount my ic straight up..its on an angle to help direct flow to the rad itself.I might go with a smaller trans cooler in your case..or move the airdam further back to direct flow more into the rad. On the hwy I often have the car drop to 165-170* and need to get on it a bit to raise my temps..but it does make great power while cruising the hwy at those temps.
Here are pics when i was mocking up my ic and bumper etc:
Odd your having such heat issues with your setup on city streets. My car has never seen over 200* .And Im running mostly stock components. Stock waterpump,t-stat,stock rad,stock dual fans,stock airdam. My intercooler is close in size and yes i know how tight our cars are for fitting a cooler..I dont recommend going smaller honestly.But slight difference in our cars i think you have a 90-92 bumper but airflow design under the car is the same with my 86 bumper. Im a stick car so dont need a trans cooler inbetween the ic and rad....I also did not mount my ic straight up..its on an angle to help direct flow to the rad itself.I might go with a smaller trans cooler in your case..or move the airdam further back to direct flow more into the rad. On the hwy I often have the car drop to 165-170* and need to get on it a bit to raise my temps..but it does make great power while cruising the hwy at those temps.
Here are pics when i was mocking up my ic and bumper etc:
Mine is a 87 formula 350 original car... it now has a 85-90 TA body kit so our bumpers are the same. My setup doesnt give me a problem 90% of the time. low speed cooling isn't the best. I think its a coolant flow/air flow issue so Im taking care of the coolant issue with the flowkooler pump vs the procomp HV. My coolant will get to 190 at the max most of the time and very rarely get higher than that. On the highway I also will get to 165*F but that was in cooler weather but my normal highway cruising temps are below 185*F for sure. But my ambient temps for normal driving at 80-100*F with high humidity.
sounds like you're heading in the right direction but I run the ECS intercooler on a c6 corvette with methanol at >900whp and it only covers half my radiator but is fairly thick. no oil cooler but dewitts radiator and upgraded fan and my coolant rarely goes over 190* unless its very hot and standing still for long time in traffic. this is with LSX iron block and procharger so pretty much worst case
sounds like you're heading in the right direction but I run the ECS intercooler on a c6 corvette with methanol at >900whp and it only covers half my radiator but is fairly thick. no oil cooler but dewitts radiator and upgraded fan and my coolant rarely goes over 190* unless its very hot and standing still for long time in traffic. this is with LSX iron block and procharger so pretty much worst case
mine won't either. It's like below 35mph or like when u keep giving it gas but the trans never shifts bc you haven't reached the threshold for the next shift point mainly bc of the 2400/2600 stall. So I end up going 3k or whatever and only going 10mph at slower speeds. This will add heat to the motor or like u said stop and go traffic but sitting still I seem to do okay. I too take a iron block and torqstorm centri supercharger so it's like a Paxton or procharger. I guess I just need to get comfortable with the car running warmer like 190-200 which is hot for me in my hot rods. All my old school motors I would get to run 160/185 and be happy. I'm just overly cautious as this is my first boosted Car. My home built turbo suszuki 600 was boosted to like 12psi but it was oil cooled.
12-16-2016, 10:12 AM
