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Well I think i got lucky, looking at older pics, the barbell is installed
along with the galley plug, which i remember seeing.
Now, I am wondering if it is my grounds or another electrical issue. I hope Vroom is right. When I first cranked it over, before tune, I got 1k where oil psi jumped to 30 psi from 0. after car is off it just stayed there and slowly bled off to around 7 psi. During tune, it just stayed at 7 psi and I couldn't see if fresh oil was was getting into the valve cover, but, along those lines that I just thought of is my coolant temp sensor is reading a ridiculous -36 degrees constant, so I am hoping that adds to my electrical theory. I had one ground that did break off on the driver side head, I accounted two on the driver side head and two on the passenger side head, is there any more grounds I am not aware of?
well i got very lucky and had a good laugh too. Pulled of the driver side cover and saw fresh oil there, so was wondering why I am not seeing and pressure, figure the OPSU went bad during the install, went to put a new one on and just happen to take a picture to see if there was oil pulled up, definitely saw oil, but something else in the adapter too, pulled the adapter out and got this lovely surprise.
Damn FME! Explains why it was holding pressure and just sticking around 7 PSI. Would also explain why I wasn't hearing any tapping noises from the valves. 60 psi cold, with the engine surging between 800 to 1100 rpms. Now I need to run a return line for the fuel, fuel pressure is a lot higher after I installed the racetronix wire kit. just waiting on parts now, fixing some power steering leaks and trying to build my own CAI at the moment.
My brain isn't registering what I'm looking at. What's the piece on the right?
Its a plastic FME cap they use, FME meaning Foreign Material Exchange. When I bought the LS1 to LS2 kit, I had no clue that was in there the whole time.
Well i got the return line ran, running fuel at 58 psi. I should have plenty of volume to keep the rails full. Found my ECT wires to be shorting out between the two, soldering them today, hopefully my sensor is good. I have a pending fault for the injector circuit, I have checked all connection and it sounds like all the cylinders are firing, it would help if my tuner could hop on and do his magic already... frustrating when you have to wait.
so no luck with my tuner, the guy just doesnt have time to finish what he started. Got an appointment set up for 21st century in dallas, just annoys me that I have to wait again... I found that the connector for my ECT was my issue, there must be a short somewhere inside. I removed the pins and put them straight on the sensor and have no issues. Order another set of adapter for my injectors, trying to rule the open circuit out even though I cant tell if I still have the issue or not.
When is your appt? Who backed out on you? Shop or a buddy?
its on the 15th, it is just for a drivability tune so I can break everything in, check valve lashes and fix whatever pops up. Depending on their schedule I will do the dyno the following week or so. It is a local guy, he knows his ****, just very unreliable. He has a V2 and knows the platform pretty well so it was easy to communicate with, but never realized how hard it was to get to touch your car after the license purchase.
Got the girl home yesterday running pretty damn good. Got 2 issues, gas gauge is working randomly aaaand i put the wrong cam sprocket in, just makes it harder for the start up. Now the break in period starts, will get her dynoed here in a week or so.
Figured out my gas gauge issue, when I was cutting a hatch to get to the fuel pump, I nicked a wire, good ole solder to the rescue, that is working fine now thankfully, PITA to get that lock ring loose. As soon as the weather cleans up a bit I will do the cam sprocket, I got a regular harmonic/steering wheel puller, hopefully it can pull it off, 145$ for the ATI puller that I may use once or twice.
Figured out my gas gauge issue, when I was cutting a hatch to get to the fuel pump, I nicked a wire, good ole solder to the rescue, that is working fine now thankfully, PITA to get that lock ring loose. As soon as the weather cleans up a bit I will do the cam sprocket, I got a regular harmonic/steering wheel puller, hopefully it can pull it off, 145$ for the ATI puller that I may use once or twice.
My first time I used the Chrysler/etc puller rental tool from AutoZone and just had to make a longer center pin out of a longer bolt. Hopefully what you have works though. NOTHING beats the right tool for the LS balancer though; it's really on there.
Figured out my gas gauge issue, when I was cutting a hatch to get to the fuel pump, I nicked a wire, good ole solder to the rescue, that is working fine now thankfully, PITA to get that lock ring loose. As soon as the weather cleans up a bit I will do the cam sprocket, I got a regular harmonic/steering wheel puller, hopefully it can pull it off, 145$ for the ATI puller that I may use once or twice.
The $85 OTC 4531 is what most people get instead of the overpriced ATI puller.
Got the cam sprocket swapped out. PITA to get that ATI off, had to order the OTC Fuzzy recommended. Changed the oil to the Valvoline SR-1, do not like it, sounds like a damn diesel when cold, made me think I messed up the chain. Other news, after the sprocket swap, the doors and reverse lockout have been working normally, so I guess the ECU needs to be happy for that stuff to function properly. Will be going for a Dyno within the week, might do another oil changes before hand and add a PCV and change the plugs
Forgot to mention this puller setup. Saw these guys at PRI and used it myself. Shame I can't find that video and instead this video of a person that doesn't actually appreciate what they are doing. We timed it and we had the balancer off and back in again in well under 30 seconds. Their engine stand is **** too. Just not real cheap.
03-24-2017, 08:56 AM
