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Well since I got a badass tax return, I am finally able to get the tranny rebuilt and swap the engine that I have had and been building for years now. I want to make sure I have everything ready to make this as smooth as I can possibly make it. I have a Monster Clutch, tickshift remote bleeder and flywheel ready, Creative Steels shifter linkage bushing kit, custom made upper engine mount bracket for the iron block, i think from Radeon? I was wondering if I am missing anything else while everything is out, anything to look for, what to replace ect. I have the extension harness for the cam sensor, I milled down the knock sensors to put on the side of the block and have extension harness for those. I plan on transferring over the sensors, water pump, throttle body motor and coil packs from the LS6 over, ordering new ATI Harmonic and the MSD wiring kit previously recommended. I have a 102 Fast Intake with the billet fuel rails, is it a pain to mesh with the stock fuel system? Will the stock starter have enough umph to move a static CR 11.7X engine or do I need to fine one with a higher torque? Also, has any of you have any problems communicating through the OBD port? When I had to remove the O2 sensors with a tune, we had a heel of a time staying connected. We try on another vehicle and he was able to hold connection, checkk all my pins, nothing bent or pushed in, the tuner thinks it could be the computer. Thanks ahead for any advice and knowledge, I am ready to see how much power this build will put down, just dont want my impatience to screw me.
If standard clutch(LS1-style), then you will need either a LS1 slave or a spacer for the V slave to make up for the thinner clutch in non-V applications.
Pilot bearing, and make sure you get the right one! With the V-style transmission, you need a different one than would normally come in a Vette, truck.
I think the stock starter will be fine. That's relatively high compression, but not THAT much higher than stock. Honestly, though,. I am strongly considering swapping mine for a gear-reduction unit because the sound is so much cooler. With lower starting speed though, I did notice on the Jeep that cranking times were a couple seconds longer than before. I believe Fuzzy confirmed that the MSD starter fits?
My rad and condenser are obviously stock the the car and look a little worn. I am going to get the Alradco and a new condenser to avoid worry in those areas. The stock fans, while working fine, look like a$$ and I am trying to get over that currently.
One thing I am going to make myself do that I rarely did before is detail the engine compartment when everything is out. I am going to set aside a full day to get everything as clean as possible and assess for possible touch-up. Might even wax the parts that still have any shine to them.
Usually I am in far too much of a hurry to not just slam the engine back in but my project has drug along so much already I think I should spend the extra day.
If standard clutch(LS1-style), then you will need either a LS1 slave or a spacer for the V slave to make up for the thinner clutch in non-V applications.
Pilot bearing, and make sure you get the right one! With the V-style transmission, you need a different one than would normally come in a Vette, truck.
I think the stock starter will be fine. That's relatively high compression, but not THAT much higher than stock. Honestly, though,. I am strongly considering swapping mine for a gear-reduction unit because the sound is so much cooler. With lower starting speed though, I did notice on the Jeep that cranking times were a couple seconds longer than before. I believe Fuzzy confirmed that the MSD starter fits?
My rad and condenser are obviously stock the the car and look a little worn. I am going to get the Alradco and a new condenser to avoid worry in those areas. The stock fans, while working fine, look like a$$ and I am trying to get over that currently.
One thing I am going to make myself do that I rarely did before is detail the engine compartment when everything is out. I am going to set aside a full day to get everything as clean as possible and assess for possible touch-up. Might even wax the parts that still have any shine to them.
Usually I am in far too much of a hurry to not just slam the engine back in but my project has drug along so much already I think I should spend the extra day.
Any tips greatly appreciated!!
Yes, I forgot to mention that I got the slave cylinder and pilot bearing along with the Monster Lt1 clutch.
I hope the starter will survive, I think it is the original one, so another concern is it dieing while it is in the new engine
I didn't think about the radiator with me going to aluminum to iron block, I might need to go bigger, but I can wait to see, it isn't hot in Texas yet. Though a good comb and some cleaning should make a difference.
I plan on doing all of this in 1 week period, so I do plan on cleaning all the 100k miles of crap and replace anything damage by time and heat.
The upgraded radiator may not be entirely necessary just because you're switching to an iron block. If you're concerned, it may be more cost effective to put a lower temp t-stat in to gain some headroom in the cooling dept. Adjusting the tune to compensate for fan timing will help too.
If after that you're still running hot, then it may be wise to get the upgraded piece.
The upgraded radiator may not be entirely necessary just because you're switching to an iron block. If you're concerned, it may be more cost effective to put a lower temp t-stat in to gain some headroom in the cooling dept. Adjusting the tune to compensate for fan timing will help too.
If after that you're still running hot, then it may be wise to get the upgraded piece.
you make a valid point, which justifies to my wait and see approach
well it may be perfect timing on my end, feeling some slippage in the clutch. Pain in the *** to shift every now and then and getting some revs above 2k rpm with a lurch. Just need it to hold out for a few more weeks....
Just to be safe, checked on the 8.8, nothing extremely hot, boots look good and she still has oil
The trouble shifting sounds more like a fluid issue than a clutch issue. Has it been bled recently? Mine's gone about 64k without a bleed and 2nd is starting to get notchy again.
The trouble shifting sounds more like a fluid issue than a clutch issue. Has it been bled recently? Mine's gone about 64k without a bleed and 2nd is starting to get notchy again.
I bled the clutch system when I did my brakes and the power steering not too long ago, havnt had issues before or after, the oil just look like straight garbage. I think it is something else too, when i started the car up this morning in 50 degree weather, she was surging a bit, almost died then went up to 1100 rpm and steady out to about 850 rpm. I feel like im losing power somewhere, as if the clutch was slipping, RPMs would should up about 200 and then it feels as if the car grabbed traction and lurch forward. So now I am leaning towards fuel air or spark, though im not getting any codes. need to check the oil again, because she is burning more oil than i have seen other LS do. The most recent change was installing CS Motor and tranny mounts, which helped a lot for my 8.8 vibes, but i dont see a reason for this causing any of it. Maybe just a loose spark plug wire or something from taking my headers off. Just need to hold off for me for a few more weeks hopefully if i can plan the time to do this swap
So come to find out that I broke the water temperature sensor... again, probably when I took the headers off and put them on again, explains for the crappy start up and rich fuel I was smelling. The clutch still feels like it is slipping, but wont matter here for long.
Question: Have you guys had any issues with the duralast water temperature sensor? When I tried to replace it the first time, the duralast kept giving me a High Input, took it back and got the cheaper version, I forget the name. Just wondering if I got the dud of the bunch.
Has anyone used NGK tr6 IX and what have you gap them out to? I am trying to find step colder plugs, I believe I'm running the TR5s right now. The engine will be a street/strip so my bet of heat range is 6 or even maybe a 7
Unless you're running nitrous, I would leave the plugs at stock specs.
Even with the higher static CR? This is the first time I have built something like this, im hoping the motor will push 500, so with that, I know that the rule of thumb is the higher the hp the colder the plug, with the variable of how its driven.
So I am wondering what fuel pump would be recommended? I am looking at racetronix and lingenfelter kits, was wondering if any of you have these and how do you like them? I also been looking at the DW300, though I would only get a single and not go the double route, as of yet. I will be getting the racetronix wiring kit for the pump. Will be pulling the tranny and engine out this weekend, so the sooner I order the quicker I can put everything together
Well the ATI came in, so I installed that along with the monster clutch, although I ran out of red loctite, so the ARP bolt for the harmonic isnt in yet. I may just buy the DW300 fuel pump tomorrow, found the kit for our cars on their website.
Okay, So i am trying to search around to see how I adapt the throttle body to the car, it looks like i need to find a way to make a 6 pin adapter? I see on the V it is a 4 pin for the ecu and a two pin for the position sensor if I am not mistaken.
is this what I need? https://www.texas-speed.com/p-1195-h...1-vehicle.aspx
Also i still need to order the ecu, looking at the 2010 camaros, will this work on our cars?
Gorgeous motor, but I'm not sure if you can just drop a Camaro ECU in this car...someone will chime in, but honestly, I'd keep the stock ECU, get a ported LS2 throttle body (or a NW 102 if you want to put up with it), then the LS6/LS2 adapter and keep it simple.
Gorgeous motor, but I'm not sure if you can just drop a Camaro ECU in this car...someone will chime in, but honestly, I'd keep the stock ECU, get a ported LS2 throttle body (or a NW 102 if you want to put up with it), then the LS6/LS2 adapter and keep it simple.
thanks man, years in the making. I have read a few problems the the NW, but looking at the pics, the ECU looks almost the same as the camaros, so im hoping i can get this 102 bbk to work, got it cheap af. Is that adapter from texas-speed the right one?
Yeah, the adapter looks right, although I had an '07 so I never used one.
Thanks for your input boss, I asked my tuner who does nothing but LS engines for various vehicles, just awaiting a response, I may just jump the gun and order it all tomorrow. If it doesn't work Ill just return it. Was hoping someone already tried it to save me some time and headaches. I knew the implementation would be a pain, but i barely even started...
Looking at the comparison, they look so similiar, besides the NW (Left) being polished.
Last edited by Anthony Toal; 02-24-2017 at 07:02 PM.
02-08-2017, 10:15 AM
Getting this right 
