Getting this right
#41
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Could just shove a round piece of plastic in the hose(tight fit) and drill a small hole in there and work up from that. 1/4" sounds a bit big but I may be underestimating the vacuum created. Seems like vacuum restrictors used to be a common thing but I can't seem to find them at Autozone's website. At any rate, I would run unrestricted(3/8-ish?) hose form the engine to the catch can so it doesn't get clogged with PCV junk. Then run the restrictor on the fresh air side so it stay clean.
#42
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Could just shove a round piece of plastic in the hose(tight fit) and drill a small hole in there and work up from that. 1/4" sounds a bit big but I may be underestimating the vacuum created. Seems like vacuum restrictors used to be a common thing but I can't seem to find them at Autozone's website. At any rate, I would run unrestricted(3/8-ish?) hose form the engine to the catch can so it doesn't get clogged with PCV junk. Then run the restrictor on the fresh air side so it stay clean.
#44
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got the new engine in finally
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Well I gotta pull the engine back out, the passenger lower engine mount isnt lining up. Need to drill another hole on the upper mount to for those dowel pins on the mounts themselves to turn it enough to line it up. I was spot on on the driver side though. The racetonix fuel pump wiring kit and NW came in yesterday as well, no nipple for the passenger valve cover so I will have to do was Mercier suggested and enter from the intake tube. After I get the engine settled back in, put the harness back and start assembling everything again. Still waiting on a 6th gear for my transmission, apparently 6th is a PITA to find nowadays.
#47
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Okay, so luckily only two issues popped up so far.
The first issue is I found this wire, it is on the same bus as on the oil pressure and the ground wire behind the driver side head. It looks like another ground wire, but looking through my marked bag for ground bolts, I am out. Is this a spare or something else?
The second issue is my failed attempt to fix the nipple I broke on top of the radiator the Ts off into the cross over tube, it looks like the top piece isn't separable, so it looks like im in for a new radiator, looking on ebay they range from 50 to 60 which isnt bad at all. Where can I find the Alradco and is it worth it?
Edit:
Almost forgot to show the picture of the unknown wire
Now I have a ground behind the driver head and 2 behind the passenger head, so I dont know if I screwed up somewhere with my bagging and tagging
The first issue is I found this wire, it is on the same bus as on the oil pressure and the ground wire behind the driver side head. It looks like another ground wire, but looking through my marked bag for ground bolts, I am out. Is this a spare or something else?
The second issue is my failed attempt to fix the nipple I broke on top of the radiator the Ts off into the cross over tube, it looks like the top piece isn't separable, so it looks like im in for a new radiator, looking on ebay they range from 50 to 60 which isnt bad at all. Where can I find the Alradco and is it worth it?
Edit:
Almost forgot to show the picture of the unknown wire
Now I have a ground behind the driver head and 2 behind the passenger head, so I dont know if I screwed up somewhere with my bagging and tagging
Last edited by Anthony Toal; 03-02-2017 at 08:44 PM.
#49
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Alradco is about $500. Fro.their website. From what I understand, it is a great piece but a little thicker than the stock so it can cause slight need for clearance for of the intake tube--depending on what you are running. I am planning to order one soon. So my guaranteed no leak stocker would be for sale for cheap if you want it. It is good but could also use a good cleaning.
Have you looked at the plastic welder Harbor Freight sells? It basically lets you weld the nylon that the rads and intakes are made of from what I understand. Haven't done it myself though.
Have you looked at the plastic welder Harbor Freight sells? It basically lets you weld the nylon that the rads and intakes are made of from what I understand. Haven't done it myself though.
#51
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no, the cam, knock sensor, oil pressure connectors are accounted for. it looks almost like the ground wire that you can see attached behind it, and I hate to use it as a ground if it is a hot, dont want a pretty light show
#52
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Alradco is about $500. Fro.their website. From what I understand, it is a great piece but a little thicker than the stock so it can cause slight need for clearance for of the intake tube--depending on what you are running. I am planning to order one soon. So my guaranteed no leak stocker would be for sale for cheap if you want it. It is good but could also use a good cleaning.
Have you looked at the plastic welder Harbor Freight sells? It basically lets you weld the nylon that the rads and intakes are made of from what I understand. Haven't done it myself though.
Have you looked at the plastic welder Harbor Freight sells? It basically lets you weld the nylon that the rads and intakes are made of from what I understand. Haven't done it myself though.
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Also I am looking for the seal for the pressure line for the power steering, I found this part number 88952004, I was hoping I could find one at a autozone or o'reilys, but no luck. Maybe lowes or home depot?
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Well now I somehow brok the return line nipple on the power steering pump resevoir, I found a part number 15285644 on gmpartsdirect.com, but when i search else where it shows that is for a corvette. Does anyone know where else to get one? I called my local auto parts store and they dont have any.
I found a o-ring that fits in the pressure hose for the power steering pump,I may give it a try, unless I have to order the reservoir on parts direct I might as well get the seal as well.
I found a o-ring that fits in the pressure hose for the power steering pump,I may give it a try, unless I have to order the reservoir on parts direct I might as well get the seal as well.
#58
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Just a head up for who ever snaps one of the nipples on the reservoir tank for the power steering. The barbs are glue on and do come off.
Broken return barb.
I used a crew driver and a small hammer to pop the barb off
There is plenty meat to use here
I used a 3/8-18 tap, thread sealer and RTV
Broken return barb.
I used a crew driver and a small hammer to pop the barb off
There is plenty meat to use here
I used a 3/8-18 tap, thread sealer and RTV