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really want to fab up a tube front end like that for my SS. cant seem to find any good info on this type of support. do you have any more pics of the nose with how its supporting the bumper and lights etc.?
excuse my noobness.
I do not have any others i dont think. But I can take a few today. Its really simple though. Just solid core thinner metal welded to the bolt holes.
Of course the intake hits the windhsield by a good amount. At this point there s no going back. I should have never bought the rec port heads or just sold them for a loss. Solely so I could keep the edelbrock pro flo.
So I took a gringing wheel to the windshield.
And there was another 16 hour day.
Once again struck an hour out because of this stupid ******* $900 oil pan.
Pan edge was built so high where the rear cover sits. about 1/4 inch gap in between the rear main seal. So instead of even wasting my breathe or time I just ground down the rear cover. Then just to solidify their shitty design the bolt holes for the pan were still off center. I have more time ******* around with the front and rear timing covers then i do gapping the rings and checking bearing clearances. I had the front cover and obviously take the crank pulley off atleast 5-6 times to get it "close" Im still concerned that it may leak but I literally could not get it to line up any better. The rear went fine once I ground it down and egg shapped the bolt holes.
As you can see last week where I also spent a couple hours with a porting bit and cut off wheel making a few jagged edges f the oil pan smooth, grinding down welds that caused gaps with the front and rear covers. Egg out a few holes, and bend the primary surface of the pan straight.
Like Ive said before Im all about making **** work, but I went back and fourth on this canton pan for months. Heard good and bad, but nearly all bad from end users. I knew I should have bought it. The only thing it has going for it is that it looks great on the engine.
The lsnext itself sure is and was a lot of work here and there to get to work. I have to get an alternator relocator because where the oil port comes out of the pump is right where the ls1 radiator sits. So theres another headache lol
Racecar life. never ending.
Makes me glad I went with an LSX block lol. May be old and outdated, but everything lined up just like a factory block. Oh maybe because it kinda is lol.
Damn dude your right it's always something. Either more time than expected, more money or both! Keep it up tho it will get there and be a badass machine
Makes me glad I went with an LSX block lol. May be old and outdated, but everything lined up just like a factory block. Oh maybe because it kinda is lol.
I bought this second hand although brand new(guy bought it and couldnt finish his project). But I spoke with dart personally before I purchased it. I spent a solid 3 weeks deciding if it was worth it or not. They told me all of the covers lined up perfectly which on their end they did. But it just seems like there were a lot of hidden costs. I definitely wish I would have bought the lsx, especially for what Im doing with it. The lsnext is far out of my power goal capabilities.
When I was searching around though a few places had told me the lsx blocks needed more machining then the next so there was added cost there. So I wasnt sure who or what to beleive.
Either way, **** canton and their ls next oil pan lol
Would doing this type of front end only in front of the strut towers, does that eliminate you from any certain classes like true street?
I do not know many of the rules. but I dont think it would disqualify you for many classes because it is all stock style suspension still. But what do I know. I am not a class racer.
Damn dude your right it's always something. Either more time than expected, more money or both! Keep it up tho it will get there and be a badass machine
I am steady trying to work at it! Mental thing more then anything for me.
I have to buy an aftermarket rack now because I decided to go with these flowtech turbo headers.
My tig welding skills are getting a little better but I still need to work on my starting and stopping. I seem to get going good and have to adjust or move the pipe and mess up the sweetness. Getting the fruity fruit loops colors down though pretty good.
Progress is better than sitting around reading about people's builds and offering opinions...keep up the good work man.
The welds look like that because you are wiggling around the torch too much and are inconsistent on feeding the filler rod. Try to keep the torch close to 45* if you are welding a flange to a tube or 90* if you are butt welding the tubes. Remember, get into a rhythm of feeding and moving the torch. When you feel like you are too hot, you are. Its always easier to slow the process down by reducing heat.
[QUOTE=BlackSS4thgen;19635056]I have to buy an aftermarket rack now because I decided to go with these flowtech turbo headers.
My tig welding skills are getting a little better but I still need to work on my starting and stopping. I seem to get going good and have to adjust or move the pipe and mess up the sweetness. Getting the fruity fruit loops colors down though pretty good.
What rack are you using now?
Reason i ask is because i have used a racecraft k-memeber and rack and the same turbo headers. In my case i still had to get a extra steering shaft joint to get the steering to work. Just an fyi.
What rack are you using now?
Reason i ask is because i have used a racecraft k-memeber and rack and the same turbo headers. In my case i still had to get a extra steering shaft joint to get the steering to work. Just an fyi.[/QUOTE]
I decided to do some grinding and welding on the rack. I couldnt justify the $550-600 to replace it. I did order the trz steering column with some extra pieces though.
05-27-2017, 09:37 AM
