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ftp 104 lid was only worth 2 hp over my slp lid back to back testing at Engine Power system's dyno. the fitment issues are not worth 2 hp so I stayed with the slp lid.
460 rwhp in speed density with flp lid
vs
458 rwhp with slp lid in speed density. '
added 85 mm maf and went back down to 452 rwhp . kept it only for running of dry nitrous kit.
will go wet soon and back to speed density tune. staying with slp lid
Ah ok good to hear. I'll just stick with that I have then. Thanks for the input.
ftp 104 lid was only worth 2 hp over my slp lid back to back testing at Engine Power system's dyno. the fitment issues are not worth 2 hp so I stayed with the slp lid.
460 rwhp in speed density with flp lid
vs
458 rwhp with slp lid in speed density. '
added 85 mm maf and went back down to 452 rwhp . kept it only for running of dry nitrous kit.
will go wet soon and back to speed density tune. staying with slp lid
Ok attached are the Dyno jet numbers. This was done today I just came back from the run. It's at a local tuner he hooked me up with two runs. I went to him a year ago when I only had Kooks 1-3/4 headers for a tune. Therefore, run file_012 is when I only had long tubes and also at the time I had the stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears. The second and third run were done today. Numbers were:
2nd run 457.45hp and 399.12 tq
3rd run 456.78 and 401.73
I know....I was also disappointed we only picked up 120 RWHP at 6000 RPM's....LOL
What's even more crazy is I feel the real net gains from the H/C swap are easily 16 - 20 RWHP higher. Going to the power robbing S60 rear and a fairly steep 410 gearset has a big impact on the numbers. Its almost like dyno'ing a car in 3rd gear versus fourth which any tuner will tell you always drops the numbers (engine doesnt have as much time to load the dyno). The rear itself is a loss of 12-14 RWHP (many guys have done that test) and the gearing swap is easily 5 RWHP and could be more with a 410 ratio (versus say a 373 or a 390 which doesnt lose as much).
I am also excited to her how she does at the track....I suspect it will run extremely well
Ok, haven't had time to really test it at the track. Was waiting for my Weld wheels because there is no way I would be able to get a good 60' on street tires. Drag strip date is set for June 25.
I did not run the hoosiers because the front runners did not get here on time, therefore I wasted money buying a set of 325/50/15 MT ET Street R Drag Radial just to cut them up.
I guess I had to roll the fenders. Will try again next month with the hoosiers. I just can't get a good 60'. What do you guys launch at? I was doing 3500 and then 4500. 18 PSI on the ET Streets. I need to revisit my suspension as well. The hotchkiss 1" drop springs and Koni shocks are not helping. Will look into Viking. Any recommendations on the suspension?
lol I totally went through the same thing. Hoosiers will help a lot. Try 15 psi and 4500 rpm as a starting point. Next time out I'm going to 12 psi and see if I can work rpm higher
Cool thanks Darth. I'll try that out on the next outing
The radial should work but will be more difficult to dial in the launch.
Make sure the tires are safe and not rubbing.
With any suspension as long as you aren't slammed or something is radically wrong you should be able to go 1.7x's.
Get us a launch video and we'll shoot you over some tips. Even audio will do.
The radial should work but will be more difficult to dial in the launch.
Make sure the tires are safe and not rubbing.
With any suspension as long as you aren't slammed or something is radically wrong you should be able to go 1.7x's.
Get us a launch video and we'll shoot you over some tips. Even audio will do.
Ill get a video next time. Any help is much appreciated.
Just to let you gentlemen know i run the Hoosiers, at around 12 to 12.5 psi and that is launching at 6400 and shift at 6400. Any higher on pressure and i get too much tire speed. Depending on the track prep you might can go slightly higher. I normally launch at 5500 and shift at 5500 with no more than 13 psi tire pressure. Last month when we were racing at the bluegrass nationals in Bowling Green my tire pressure had to be no more than 12.5 psi and still had slight wheel slippage. By the way i have the Viking coil overs double adjustable on all four corners and love them.
Just to let you gentlemen know i run the Hoosiers, at around 12 to 12.5 psi and that is launching at 6400 and shift at 6400. Any higher on pressure and i get too much tire speed. Depending on the track prep you might can go slightly higher. I normally launch at 5500 and shift at 5500 with no more than 13 psi tire pressure. Last month when we were racing at the bluegrass nationals in Bowling Green my tire pressure had to be no more than 12.5 psi and still had slight wheel slippage. By the way i have the Viking coil overs double adjustable on all four corners and love them.
You guy so should really try some stuff wall slicks. They drive way better than those QTP's and ET street junk. And they work great. I know they're not "street legal", but I promise they drive better than the other tires you're talking about. 1.35 60ft with them when I was a 6 speed and that was at 15.5 psi. Almost zero sway with them as well especially when running around 18-20 on the street.
The radial should work but will be more difficult to dial in the launch.
Make sure the tires are safe and not rubbing.
With any suspension as long as you aren't slammed or something is radically wrong you should be able to go 1.7x's.
Get us a launch video and we'll shoot you over some tips. Even audio will do.
Yeah really should be able to hit a 1.7x with any half decent radial. My best 60' on the 10 bolt (1.68) was with a set of wore out Hoosier DR's
01-19-2017, 10:28 PM
