Yes im strating to understand all this stuff, but why the hells this car gotta be such a PITA to mod? Lol
Think im gonna throw in a reman ac delco starter, and possibly a new solenoid wire if needed when its apart also.

 

This stuff is the same across all cars. I think you're just getting exposed to people with greater performance requirements, experience, and expectations.

 

I will say, this car is more of a PITA to mod than other LS platforms so your initial impression isn't off the mark. It's got its upsides too though, mainly the 2 extra doors.

 

Yes, spray the broken ones. Without a head on them they'll be much more difficult to twist out. You want to make that as easy as possible with a creeping lubricant.

 

PITA to mod in the engine bay? I'd say it's got more room under the hood than most LS cars. Esp since a better portion of the engine isn't covered up by the windshield cowl.

 

Yea thats true, i seen my brothers 2000 trans am engine bay, id hate to have to work on that thing lol

 

Got my Magic in a can today. Lol
Should i spray them days in advance or would i be good spraying it the day of the install?

 

Both, now and before removal.

 

Should i also spray the two broken ones that i might have to weld out? Or dont spray those two to keep them clean incase a weld is needed?
Was just looking around to get an idea but, Also noticed i have one broke on the rear of the pass side, along with the two on the driver side the front and the rear, havent even touched them so they broke on their own who knows however long ago, so i got 3 to somehow get out, damnit man

 

Also just curious does anyone know what that thing is in the right of the picture? That chrome nipple fitting looking thing, looking from the top of the motor on the back, it sits on top of the tranny right near the fire wall

 

That passenger side rear bolt is going to be a bear to get out. You may want to start with that one. If you're confident you can weld a booger on that one with enough material to grab with pliers, go for it. I opted to pull the heads and don't regret it.

 

But i would be attemting to weld a nut to it to have something to grab on, others tell me to try to get a angle drill and a reverse drill bit, but that would probly never work like that in those tight spots.
But the passenger, That one might just stay broke, but the otherside i dont want to leave two broke on the same side, one i would be ok with on each side to leave alone. I either try to remove them or just risk to leave them all broke and see what happens.
But I still got about another 2 weeks before i do the install anyways, just trying to be prepared

 

I tried that. If the bolt were in the middle it would probably be more likely to seal. The very rear bolt, however, did not. There was a very apparent ticking exhaust leak.

Are you sure that cap on the transmission is attached to something? Looks like it was dropped and wedged itself in there.

 

I might give it a try anyways with the felpro gasket, seems a bit thicker, but who knows yet what im doin lol.

Yea it feels attatched, i grabbed it and it felt like it was connected to a wire loom or some sorta harness, not exactly sure, its weird, i just thought it was a socket extension layin down there at first, but I didn't want to yank on it too much and break something

 

That's the T-56 vent tube. I recommend cutting it shorter next time you have the transmission out.

 

for what its worth, when i did my headers i had a broken stud on the rear drivers side.

I was able to drill it and use a thread chaser to clean up the threads after. I started with a small bit to try and have it as centered as possible then slowly stepped up in size until i could spin out the remaining shell of a bolt shaft.

Mine was just below flush with the head so welding it would have been a little harder and I would have had to put the manifold back on to drive over to the shop where i have welder access.

on the plus side with aluminum heads you don have to worry about welding the nut to the head, the only thing the weld will stick to is the stud/bolt. And the heat from the welding does a good job of putting some really good localized heat into the remaining bolt to try and loosen it up.

 

Didnt wanna make a new thread, but what brake fluid and tranny fluid are u guys running or recommend? And could i get it at a local parts store or would it be orderd online? Thanks everyone

 

I like and have been using DOT4 Amsoil Brake fluid in all of my cars.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=BFRCN-EA

I'm using the recommended stock GM Dexron III ATF Trans fluid and haven't had any issues with it. I bought some Amsoil Torque Drive to replace it, but haven't quite reached the mileage yet to do that job. (still under 50k).

 

Any opinions on the mobil 1 atf?

 

I use Mobile 1 engine oil for the V, or sometimes Amsoil engine oil. I have not tried Mobile1 ATF. I've read some people not having the best luck with it, others no issues. I would stick with low risk and just retain the GM Dexron III since it was specifically designed for it and if you're not having any current issues with it.