Always check your non actual brand wastegate.
#1
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From: League city, Tx
Always check your non actual brand wastegate.
So since starting to tune the car the boost curve always went up and down like little teeth. I never really thought much of it. I thought that's how it was. This is also my first time into forced induction so I just let it be, figured it was suppouse to be like that. Then it got worse and started affecting the performance of the car. So I decided to take off the wastegate and this is what I found.
That's is from just me opening it not touching nothing this is how it came out.
That's is from just me opening it not touching nothing this is how it came out.
#2
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From: League city, Tx
Started doing some research and I ended up going with the Precision 46mm wastegate. Man the quality is amazing you get what you pay for. I did the same thing and opened it up just like I did the other one not touching it.This is how it cam out. Looks amazing.
#3
Diaphragms on China gates are usually installed poorly. I did a writeup somewhere on how to swap out your crap China diaphragm with a true Tial one for $42 And basically end up with a gate that would normally cost hundreds more.
#4
That would probably be worthy of being a sticky...
#6
I'm of the frame of mind that wastegates aren't the thing to cheap out on.
Of course other will say differently but I don't want a part that controls something as critical as engine boost bought on the cheap.
Injectors, fuel pumps, waste gates etc.
Of course other will say differently but I don't want a part that controls something as critical as engine boost bought on the cheap.
Injectors, fuel pumps, waste gates etc.
#7
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This is just a wastegate that came with the kit I didn't intentionally and go off and just buy this wastegate. I knew in my head if it didn't work out that I would just get another one actual name one.
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#9
#10
It's a very good practice to check everything and I've found it's easier to remedy any problems with vendors if it's a recent sale. So, I pretty much tear everything apart and/or verify specifications upon receipt, whether it's going straight into use or in the parts collection pile for a future project.
Most stuff is good, but have identified issues similar to the ones pictured above, mechanical fuel pumps missing O-rings, custom ground cams out of spec... A few minutes checking things out can save some head scratching, money, and time in the long run.
Beyond the "good practice" reasoning, I just like to see the guts of everything. Admire ingenuity, construction, assembly... and occasionally identify problems.
Anyway... x2
Last edited by SethU; 08-03-2017 at 11:59 PM.
#11
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Just in update got it in and went to go test, log and adjust. Man car feels way different, before I had the 8lb spring in it. Now it has 7.5 spring combo in the Precision. Here's some screen shots of before and after of the boost curve.
Before
After
Before
After
#12
If you have a way to setup fail safes on your ECU, saving a ton on a china gate is fine IMO.
I’ve run them for years on many different setups and never hurt an engine with a faulty gate. If you routinely inspect them (I check mine every winter) and ensure it was initially assembled correctly… I’ve yet to have one fail either. I’ve also just bolted them on without inspecting them and had a few failures.
Usually the hardware that secures the dome to the valve housing comes loose. I use a healthy amount of red Loctite on these. I’ve yet to see one back out that I used Loctite on. (not saying it won’t happen one day!) I’ve seen 1 torn diaphragm and probably ordered 20+ china gates. In the case of the torn diaphragm, a new gate was sent to me and I got to keep the old one as well. I have seen owners swap springs and pinch diaphragms MANY times. Then blame it on the “cheap china” gate.
I’ve run them for years on many different setups and never hurt an engine with a faulty gate. If you routinely inspect them (I check mine every winter) and ensure it was initially assembled correctly… I’ve yet to have one fail either. I’ve also just bolted them on without inspecting them and had a few failures.
Usually the hardware that secures the dome to the valve housing comes loose. I use a healthy amount of red Loctite on these. I’ve yet to see one back out that I used Loctite on. (not saying it won’t happen one day!) I’ve seen 1 torn diaphragm and probably ordered 20+ china gates. In the case of the torn diaphragm, a new gate was sent to me and I got to keep the old one as well. I have seen owners swap springs and pinch diaphragms MANY times. Then blame it on the “cheap china” gate.
#13
I run twin Wyntomm 44 gates. The 65$ units off eBay. My ecu has overboost protection. I've had boost issues, that has always turned into something else. And while diagnosing an issue earlier this year and just about ready to buy twin pte 46 gates, I got my hands on one and learned I with just a little machine work my china 44mm units now have the same specs as the 46mm gate, meaning the fire ring has the same ID and the valve stroke is the same. Boost control is still on par, but for 130 bucks versus over 700 dollars, I have a pretty good setup
#16
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Yeah the original gate I had never opened until I took those pictures. I'm not gonna lie I did try to take off the diaphragm once I opened it, but the small allen head screws holding were so tight I end up stripping the allen hole it self.Yeah I have seen that Demah video, I like his content I have learned quite a bit from his videos. But he was still having trouble with that gate after he tried to fix the problem.