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Probing the left side contacts does not affect the hazards. Which makes me think a wire somewhere is dead, as it's not shorting/grounding/whatever out the hazards flasher.
If the probing doesn't stop the hazards, then I wouldn't be too worried about things until you can get your tester to register a voltage reading. (I wouldn't be surprised that probing the circuit with the turn signal flasher on could cause wierd stuff to happen given the way the original thermal flashers work.)
i had every blinker problem over the past year & a half - 1 blinker working the other not, both not working, both barely working, one or the other barely flashing or not flashing at all (green light just stuck when turned on as yours is now), .... new turn signal flasher fixed ALL problems. once it's going out it will cause exactly what's happening with you & other weird stuff to happen for a good long while before it finally just goes out & both blinkers don't work at all. $7 at a-zone or oreilly & a 5 min. install
new turn signal flasher fixed ALL problems. once it's going out it will cause exactly what's happening with you & other weird stuff to happen for a good long while before it finally just goes out & both blinkers don't work at all. $7 at a-zone or oreilly & a 5 min. install
I'm not sure it will fix the problem here, but I think this would be a fine thing to do and might make the diagnosis easier.
^ The picture posted above is for the wrong part, though. The correct thermal flasher for the turn signals is hard to find, so most people seem to be installing electronic flashers these days.
I'm not sure it will fix the problem here, but I think this would be a fine thing to do and might make the diagnosis easier.
^ The picture posted above is for the wrong part, though. The correct thermal flasher for the turn signals is hard to find, so most people seem to be installing electronic flashers these days.
well .... here's why i went with ll552 pictured above ... "The Novita 552 is a thermal turn signal flasher. Developed in the early 1940's, thermal turn signal flashers use heat, generated by electricity, to bend spring steel internally which causes the flasher to operate. Thermal flashers only have a 36 hour design life and are not as reliable as the Novita® LL552® and EL12 which are direct replacements that are made in the U.S.A"
... to each their own but either are just fine.
the Novita® LL552® and EL12 which are direct replacements that are made in the U.S.A"
I did say that most people were installing electronic flashers, which is what it appears is what you have. Odd that this manufacturer would put an electronic flasher in a thermal flasher case and give it the same part number as a thermal flasher... Most folks just go up to the EL12.
Originally Posted by SkWiDsTyLe321
well .... here's why i went with ll552 pictured above ...
My comments above was assuming that the flasher pictured was thermal. The stock flasher was a 322.
I went ahead and tested all of the wires. At board is tested by touching the bottom of the contacts immediately after the plug where go into the silicon board. At connector is just touching the test light to the wires in the unplugged connector.
Whats confusing me is why I have flashing at the hazards output for left, but the light does not flash. Also, why the LT BLU STR is solid at connector, but plugged in I get nothing.
I got a wire I had laying around to test to see if maybe my LT BLU wire or my left socket or whatever was grounding out. So I ran the following test
Jumped DK BLU wire from right side to left side turn signal bulb : Flashes
Jumped LT BLU wire from left side to right side turn signal bulb: Nothing
My socket works, so now it can only be the LT BLU wire, or the DRL causing my problem if my thinking is correct. So i unplugged the DRL and swapped the LT BLU and DK BLU wires to test to see if my LT BLU wire was grounding out.
LT BLU wire jumped to right side turn signal bulb: Flashes
DK BLU wire jumped to left side turn signal bulb: Nothing
Since both the LT BLU and DK BLU wires are working on the "right side" of the DRL, and both do not work on the "left side" of the DRL, and they both share a relay for input, I think I've narrowed it down to being the DRL, if my thought process is correct.
Great test. You have a wiring problem between the DRL module and the bulb. You could have a wire issue, still a socket issue, or a bulb issue...
I would next probe the socket with the hazards on and see what voltages you get. If you don't read anything on the turn signal contact, I would take out the socket insert and probe the wires and see if you read anything there.
Since both the LT BLU and DK BLU wires are working on the "right side" of the DRL, and both do not work on the "left side" of the DRL, and they both share a relay for input, I think I've narrowed it down to being the DRL, if my thought process is correct.
Sorry. I made my last post as you were posting this.
Your DRL module is fine and your last post showing test results proves it. With the hazards on, everything is good.
Your tests also show normal behavior for the turn signal. The DRL module operates the DRL function by turning the filament on all the time. As the turn signal flashes, the DRL module "flips it" and cuts the power, causing the DRL to flash. This is why you see power going in and nothing coming off the relay inside the module. (If you probed both sides of the module with the hazards on, you'd see the inputs and outputs off and on at different times, also.)
You aren't getting flashing with the turn signal on because the stock flasher doesn't have enough current to go through it to make it "flash". The hazard flasher is of a different design and isn't as picky in this situation. So, all of your testing from this point forward should be with the hazards on.
So, your problem must be between the DRL module and the bulb or the bulb itself. You are close!
Believe it or not had the the exact same problem, drivers side blinker would stay illuminated and right side worked fine. All that was wrong was the flasher relay under the dash had went out. Shorted internally for some reason. its a quick cheap replacement before you dive into the more expensive DRL Module.
Believe it or not had the the exact same problem, drivers side blinker would stay illuminated and right side worked fine. All that was wrong was the flasher relay under the dash had went out. Shorted internally for some reason. its a quick cheap replacement before you dive into the more expensive DRL Module.
In your situation, your hazards would have worked. Here, the bulb doesn't illuminate when the hazards are on - so this is a different problem.
Believe it or not had the the exact same problem, drivers side blinker would stay illuminated and right side worked fine. All that was wrong was the flasher relay under the dash had went out. Shorted internally for some reason. its a quick cheap replacement before you dive into the more expensive DRL Module.
I second this. My car was rear ended once lightly. Took to dealership for repairs and they gave me the car back with same issu, driver side not flashing but passenger side was fine. They told me they had a tech diagnose it and gave me a quote of $350 to fix it since it was "not caused by the rear ending". Walked to parts desk, picked up $10 electronic relay and replaced thermal relay. This was 8 years ago and have never had an issue since. It took me all of 5 minutes to get used to the new "clicking" sound the new relay made vs the old thermal one
I second this. My car was rear ended once lightly. Took to dealership for repairs and they gave me the car back with same issu, driver side not flashing but passenger side was fine. They told me they had a tech diagnose it and gave me a quote of $350 to fix it since it was "not caused by the rear ending". Walked to parts desk, picked up $10 electronic relay and replaced thermal relay. This was 8 years ago and have never had an issue since. It took me all of 5 minutes to get used to the new "clicking" sound the new relay made vs the old thermal one
In your situation, your hazards would have also worked. Here, the bulb doesn't illuminate when the hazards are on - so this is a different problem.
08-09-2017, 05:28 PM
