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4.10 gear install

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Old 08-25-2017, 03:14 AM
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Backlash was at .014. Now the question is. If I recall Richmond calls for .008 +\- .004. 4.10s going to spin around fast enough to want to set backlash to the looser end to account for heat??
Old 08-25-2017, 04:22 PM
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Remove shims from the passenger side and add them to the driver side to get the gears closer and close backlash down to 6 to 8. You'll probably want to move .005 to .010. So maybe you don't have those figures exactly. Maybe you have a .022 on the passenger and .018 on the driver. If you swap those from side to side you've just reduced by .005. Don't add or subtract from the total shim pack, just focus moving a small amount to get the carrier over. You NEED a set of calipers from harbor freight to measure the shims. You can't guess.
Old 08-26-2017, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Remove shims from the passenger side and add them to the driver side to get the gears closer and close backlash down to 6 to 8. You'll probably want to move .005 to .010. So maybe you don't have those figures exactly. Maybe you have a .022 on the passenger and .018 on the driver. If you swap those from side to side you've just reduced by .005. Don't add or subtract from the total shim pack, just focus moving a small amount to get the carrier over. You NEED a set of calipers from harbor freight to measure the shims. You can't guess.
I have a micrometer at the shop. also what is the preload on the carrier? Isn't it something like 16ish inch lbs on the carrier? I want to say the way is find ur pinion preload without carrier. Then find total pinion and carrier preload. Subtract the pinion preload then multiply that by 4.10 for the gear ratio to get your carrier preload Is that about right?? Or just make carrier shims tight to get in without too much beating good enough? I should be able to get more done next time I'm off work.
Old 08-26-2017, 10:29 AM
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You should be rolling patterns with about zero preload on carrier, meaning you arent pounding it in but there is NO slack, so lightly tapping. Then you can move your existing shims from side to side to adjust its position (i.e. backlash). Once it done and complete and ready for final assembly, you need to add another say .005-.010 to each side evenly so you carrier doesnt move, you are just adding load to the bearings to keep things stable and cover for wear in. Which is why its critical to know the shim thicknesses so you can quickly do your math and make necessary changes.

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Old 08-29-2017, 07:50 PM
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Just a quick update. Got pinion final bearings on. I micd the shim pack. Was .32 if that benefits anyone. And also in the pic is the digital torque gauge I used to setup pinion and carrier preload on both 10 bolts I've redone and it works really well
Old 08-30-2017, 01:00 AM
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Just a finish update..Backlash was at .08-.09. After getting the best preload pack of about .007 increase on each side backlash settled at around.005-.006 which i am very pleased with. I know the richmonds in my 95 had some whine and I tightened the backlash just a bit and it quieted down substantially. Contact pattern showed just a bit on the toe of drive side and centered on coast side. However I didn't take too much of it being it already had a good bit of marking paint dried on it. Want to say carrier shims were driver side .238 and pass was .252. Lucky for me the axle spacer paddle slips right in without hassle at all. Thanks to all for help and input.
Old 09-20-2017, 02:26 PM
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now that you have finished may I ask did you have issues getting your jingle key out? (with the 4.10)
Old 10-23-2017, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Lt1slowerbird
So if my contact pattern is good then it is not the pinion could use just a little bit more shim but I need to get my backlash a bit tighter?? Also anyone got any tips or tricks to setting up this solid pinion spacer?? I don't have the used crush sleeve to go off of as the previous gear setup was done improperly. Was thinking of using the new one to get my correct preload and then setting up my spacer based off of that.
I've probably built over a hundred diffs and will throw in my 2 cents worth. First of all the most important thing is your final pattern. It's more important than backlash or pinion depth. If you have a good pattern but a bit more backlash than you would like, don't worry about it. If your pattern is good then depth & backlash are going to be in the ballpark anyway. As far as carrier preload goes the carrier shouldn't fall out when you pull off the caps, on the other hand it doesn't have to be real hard to get out either. You should have to pound it in the last little bit. If you can't pry it out ( I pry on the head of the crown bolts) then it's to tight. In your pictures it looks like you could maybe move the pinion in a bit but it's not bad and moving the pinion is a real pain because the shim is behind the inner pinion bearing and it's pressed on, good luck getting that off without having the yukon bearing puller. I find that if the diff was set up ok before you took it apart then take the old inner pinion bearing off to get to the shim it was set up with from the factory. 95% of the time that shim will work without having to make a pinion depth change. Hope the info helps
Old 11-24-2017, 12:20 AM
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Man thats not normal the gears actually bit the carrier I've never seen that before, I hate messing with the 10 bolts period Im glad I got myself an 8.8, putting money into the 10 bolts are so unpredictable.



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