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2000 ws6 installing 4.10s. When checking my pattern on the drive side looks Okay. My coast is a bit towards the toe. However I have a little bit of rotational slop in my pinion yoke. Is this caused by a bit too much backlash or do I need to shim pinion head just a bit more towards centerline? Will attempt to add pics
Drive Drive Coast Coast
No what is backlash set at? And in my experience backlash doesn't change much if at all with small pinion depth changes. You've got a lot to learn little whipper snapper.
Not trying to hijack here but, could any of you explain why a lot of 410's I've seen have that distinct pinion rub on carrier like op has.
That's actually what happened to my 3.42s... the pinion head has no teeth on it and several are broke on the ring gear. Pulled full teeth chunks out of the vane that throws fluid up overtop and onto the pinion shaft. Cammed ws6 with monster clutch so rear was on borrowed time anyway. Tbh the pinion rub is possibly from catastrophic failure of the stock gearset scarring the carrier as mine did. The grooves on mine are really quite deep in spots. Either that or improper shimming in previous setup( which previous owner had done at sears) let the pinion come back and smack off the differential. Idk really. I just know it's pretty chewed up all the way around
Last edited by Lt1slowerbird; Aug 20, 2017 at 10:07 PM.
No what is backlash set at? And in my experience backlash doesn't change much if at all with small pinion depth changes. You've got a lot to learn little whipper snapper.
so when I grab the yoke and then rotate it clockwise and counter clockwise I have a little bit of slop before the teeth catch. I don't have a dial gauge right now. Just trying to figure out what causes that slop so I know where to go
The slop you are referring to is the backlash; "A clearance between the mating gear teeth,to let the gears mesh without binding and also provide space for a film of lubricating oil between the teeth. you measure that with a dial indicator. You usually set to 6-10 thou. Might vary depending on some gear manufacturers. you want to measure that from the ring gear though, not the yoke, since the yoke might give you a false reading. Or atleast thats my experience. I've only done 2 gear sets. This are just my 2 cents.
01SS is the gear guy with a lot more xp.
Last edited by erickk120; Aug 21, 2017 at 12:01 AM.
So if my contact pattern is good then it is not the pinion could use just a little bit more shim but I need to get my backlash a bit tighter?? Also anyone got any tips or tricks to setting up this solid pinion spacer?? I don't have the used crush sleeve to go off of as the previous gear setup was done improperly. Was thinking of using the new one to get my correct preload and then setting up my spacer based off of that.
You can't just go by feel, you need to get a dial indicator to make sure your backlash is within spec, that sloppiness you feel when you turn the yoke is your current backlash. You can't tell if its within spec just by feel, you need a dial indicator for that. As far as a spacer I have never toyed with those, but you can get a new crush sleeve from any auto part store, they are relatively cheap. I would go as far as buying 2. I would just use a crush sleeve as a spacer requires some measuring which I don't think you wanna even attempt.
You can't button that up without measuring the backlash with a dial indicator. I've only heard of few experienced people go by feel.
so when I grab the yoke and then rotate it clockwise and counter clockwise I have a little bit of slop before the teeth catch. I don't have a dial gauge right now. Just trying to figure out what causes that slop so I know where to go
You need to measure it. Get a dial gauge with magnetic base.
I actually have one on order through amazon. I had one gifted to me years ago which I used to setup my 3.73s on my 95 and I've since misplaced it.
I've done the same before can you update this thread once you get everything checked out. I'm genuinely curious as to what your backlash is with that patter.
I've done the same before can you update this thread once you get everything checked out. I'm genuinely curious as to what your backlash is with that patter.
yes me too. Be it this is with setup bearings and a solid crush sleeve shimmed to be about .002 thicker than a used crush sleeve. Preload is a little bit on the tight side. At about 3ft pounds instead of I want to say it was 2.2-2.5 but I don't think preload should change my pattern too too much. I'm almost certain once I get the ring gear a bit closer I'll be golden but I can't measure the darn thing until maybe Wednesday or Thursday. I'm kind of hoping it will tighten up my coast a bit from the toe side but if not I don't think I'll continue tinkering with my shim pack. I'm pretty content with the drive side and I think a little towards the toe on the coast side is acceptable. I'll update again once I get it measured
Grab the ring gear (up/down) and hold the yoke still to feel true backlash! You'll find checking it the right way it feels much less then spinning the yoke, which is incorrect. Also, if backlash is off, and you fix it, i doubt the pattern changes. It just doesnt really work that way in reality.
Grab the ring gear (up/down) and hold the yoke still to feel true backlash! You'll find checking it the right way it feels much less then spinning the yoke, which is incorrect. Also, if backlash is off, and you fix it, i doubt the pattern changes. It just doesnt really work that way in reality.
since your the rear end guru what do you think of my idea about using the new crush sleeve after I get it all buttoned up and preloaded proper and then removing and setting up my solid crush sleeve to that? Or is the solid crush sleeve not even worth the trouble? Being an m6 and all a lot of people suggested one
Solid crush sleeve is fine. They are a little tricky at first. One tip, tighten the nut to the same torque each time. Like dont hit it with an impact, actually put it to whatever the torque spec is, otherwise results wont be repeatable. Second be prepared to swap shims several times to get the right preload. Do all that before you install the front seal. Once the proper shims are selected you can remove and replace as many times as you need. You need to measure in inch/pounds of rotating force, you need an inch pounds beam style torque wrench.
One thing that I learned from working on rear ends for the first time is to make sure the bearing race is fully seated before you start using the dial indicator. I installed a new TrueTrac + 4.10's and new bearings and races. I dialed everything in perfectly, though I thought it was weird that I had to use barely any spacers (for the pinion gear). Turns out I didn't seat the bearing races in all the way and as I drove along there was a lot of drive line vibration.
Solid crush sleeve is fine. They are a little tricky at first. One tip, tighten the nut to the same torque each time. Like dont hit it with an impact, actually put it to whatever the torque spec is, otherwise results wont be repeatable. Second be prepared to swap shims several times to get the right preload. Do all that before you install the front seal. Once the proper shims are selected you can remove and replace as many times as you need. You need to measure in inch/pounds of rotating force, you need an inch pounds beam style torque wrench.
I have a digital torque meter gauge thing you hook up to a ratchet. Pretty nifty little thing. I actually forgot what I got it for but it works good for things like this. And also I seated the bearing races with a 10 or 12 inch SAE grade 8 bolt and a 3.5' 3/4inch ratchet I use for my construction tractor so they are seated hard as I could get them. It actually worked really good. Used a big washer until both races were flush then used an extra set of pinion bearings to countersink both races flat into the housing stops. Worked really well for carrier bearings as well.
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4.10 gear install 
can you update this thread once you get everything checked out. I'm genuinely curious as to what your backlash is with that patter. 