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not the best angles but I have about 1/2 inch clearance. Nothing has melted yet on 1 hr drives around town.
Hey grey, do you mind measuring the distance between the block(front head surface) and the closest edge of the crossover tube to the fans?
I was just looking at mine and mocking up the GT45 and see that I only have 11" from the surface of the head to the front edge of my fan shroud. So that crossover edge closest to the rad would have to be less than 11" for it to clear my fans.
Also forgot to ask what turbo were you running? The CX kit comes with a 76/65 with a .81 AR. I'm seriously considering purchasing just the hot side and turbo and see if I like it or if the GT45 will fit in its place. Do what turbo? When does boost start and when do you hit full
Boost? Also does it choke up to? Like 6k?
I want something that builds boost on the street and before 3k if possible but don't want to choke at 6k. So I want to make sure the 76/65 isn't too small and perhaps I would be happy with a 76/68 or something with a .96 AR.
Edit: also what are you running for coils and wires? Are you relocating the coils or we're you abls to get plug wires through the headers with the coils
In the stock location?
Last edited by customblackbird; 09-10-2017 at 06:43 PM.
I'll try and get some measurements when I get home.
I'm running the 76/65 with .81 A/R. I believe it's more compact than the GT45 series.
Put it this way, I can light up the tires in 1st-3rd before 3,000 rpm. You breathe on the pedal and it starts making boost. The small turbo and high compression LS1 make for a fun street combo.
A bunch of people said the little 76/65 is junk but for my goals it fits the bill(inexpensive, fast spool, 550+ rwhp). Haven't put it on the dyno but it does not seem to choke up at my shift RPM of 6400~
Side note. Have not drove the car in a few weeks, turned it on for 10 minutes. Noticed there was a water dripping from the electric cut-out. First thought was that I lifted a head Water in radiator was fine seems like it condensation from the E85 ?
Thanks I appreciate it. Sounds a lot of what I want. But I'm an auto with a 2600 stall so it should build boost even sooner than yours. The 76/65 is tiny compared to the GT45, that thing is massive and weighs a damn ton!
Gotcha on the 5.7, so your running alittle more cubes than me so that's helps you too. Try to get some measurements from the head surface/face to the outer edge of the crossover closest to the rad and if you can on the inside to the head surface. Trying to see how close it will be to my truck accessories as well (WP pulley and alt bracket. I don't run the car accessories so mine sticks off the engine 3/4" more.
Also from the video I saw your coils in the stock location but your running the wires over and around the headers?
The water sounds like condensation to me. U get a good bit from mine as well. I don't drive mine every day, lucky to get it out 2 times a week. Sits longer and cooler when you start it up it will create a good bit of water.
Pulled the trigger on the CX kit, got the hot side, turbo, downpipe and WG with all the oil fittings. I will splice into the cold side I already have. Said I wouldn't fit the stock wires so to get long SBC style but I would rather relocate the coils I think to the frame rail. Well see.
I went with the 76/65 .81 AR as they said it should be good for 600-700whp and the .96 AR would lag a good bit more but be good for 700-750whp. I'm limited by my LS1 rods and 72lb injectors but I will prob run them at 43psi on this setup. The 76/65 should be in full boost by 3k which is awsome lol so That's what I want I don't spin much to 6k so been fast between 3-5k is my play zone. Also it comes with a 6ft pressure line, where did you tap for oil pressure? Back of the block or by the filter?
If your could get those measurements I would appreciate it. They said it might clear the stock accessories. Judging by the install pics they used a truck WP in some of the shots bc of the waterpump inlet was on the top. They run the WG to atmosphere and I'm going to run it back into the Down pipe so it stays quiet. Will prob install a cutout at some point.
I bought the hot side for mine too but I'm putting a t6 turbo on it instead! Had to get in touch with a rep from cxracing just to verify that it could work. I'm gonna move the rad ahead as far as I can and put the fans in front.
I bought the hot side for mine too but I'm putting a t6 turbo on it instead! Had to get in touch with a rep from cxracing just to verify that it could work. I'm gonna move the rad ahead as far as I can and put the fans in front.
What size T6? The 2.5" hotside should provide enough velocity to spool that big turbo. If your T6 can fit then I should be able to fit my GT45.... I guess all you would need is a 2.5" to T6 90 degree adapter instead of the T4 they supply. If you start a thread let me know so I can see how she fits.
Oil feed line plumbed from the adapter above the oil filter. Already had it plumbed for an oil gauge.
Custom length diy msd wireset ran underneath the headers. This was the most time consuming part of the entire project.
Gotcha, that's where I want to tap in too as I drilled and plugged that oil feed block off above the filter already. Or I could put a tee into the back top of the block where I run senders for oil pressure gauge and a pressure sensor for my progressive meth kit.
I feel like the stock wires I have will fit as the have 135* boots already to clear the LTs I have. Going to see if it will before trying to make custom set or remote mount the coils.
What size T6? The 2.5" hotside should provide enough velocity to spool that big turbo. If your T6 can fit then I should be able to fit my GT45.... I guess all you would need is a 2.5" to T6 90 degree adapter instead of the T4 they supply. If you start a thread let me know so I can see how she fits.
I'm gonna be using a BW 75mm t6 1.32 ar with 96mm exhaust wheel. Yes that's more or less what the rep said replace the elbow with a t6 elbow and I'll have to make a brace cause they are bloody heavy.
Got my kit today and mocked up the hotside on a spare 5.3 on a stand. Apparently the stock truck tensioner will not clear the crossover. It hits the pulley. Also they website is wayyy wrong. The crossover tube and the headers all use 3"OD tubing so it's not even close to 2.5" like they said it was.
Not sure if a manual tensioner will help with more clearance but I gotta think of something. I will be going with a LS1 pump with spacers but the tensioner ends up in the same position I believe anyways.
Got my kit today and mocked up the hotside on a spare 5.3 on a stand. Apparently the stock truck tensioner will not clear the crossover. It hits the pulley. Also they website is wayyy wrong. The crossover tube and the headers all use 3"OD tubing so it's not even close to 2.5" like they said it was.
Not sure if a manual tensioner will help with more clearance but I gotta think of something. I will be going with a LS1 pump with spacers but the tensioner ends up in the same position I believe anyways.
they might have sent you their older cross over pipe. I had the same issue, went in and they swapped out my old one for one that clears.
Their welder didn't have a tensioner on when he made the first batches(as seen on their pics).
Thought so too cyber, does look different than the pics. But I know if everything was pushed back 3/4" like the fbody accessories it would clear no problem.
Hey cyber, you don't show any pics of your engine bay much especially with the updated crossover? You got any pics? Before wrapping if possible? I called and sent pics into CX racing today but didn't hear back. I think they are going to tell me I'm **** outa luck as I have the truck accessories but my crossover pipe doesn't look anything like the old or updated versions. They also said they build this in house here but mine isn't correct I feel. Side note the manual tensioner clears the crossover but now the beltedge is resting on the crossover so it's still too close.
Also they said the cross over and piping was 2.5" but it's really 3" so that's why we have even less room than we should.
Here's what my crossover looks like and the new manual tensioner installed.
I'll try and check my old phone for pics but it might be the extra 3/4 inch from the truck accessories. Best option might be to have a welder cut, re-angle and reweld to clear.
Forgot to mention, you're going to have to do something about the waterpump to heater lines. I ditched my hvac set up so i just plugged them.
Last edited by CyberGrey Z28; 09-20-2017 at 03:53 AM.
Reason: ...
Gave CX racing a few hours to look over the pics. They think I got the old version without the tensioner clearance. So I had to ship back my pass header and crossover and they are shipping out the updated version. I got the tracking number today and waiting for it to become active. Hopefully it will fix the tensioner clearance issues. The setup I had would have worked if I dinged the crossover but why ding something unless you have no choice. The crossover is suppose to be 2.5" but it's 3" which is a huge difference in DIA and makes fitment even more difficult... why they would do that makes no sense as the 2.5" should
Cost less material wise and production. Not to mention 2.5" pipe supports wayyyy over 1000hp.
I won't ever go EWP on a street car. Personally not a fan either. So for me it's not really an option. I know the manual tensioner now clears so if the new pipe offers any more clearance I'm going to run it. I just wanted alittle space between the belt and header wrap on the crossover. I'm not worried about radiant heat as much as I am rubbing as the belt is constantly moving.
09-09-2017, 07:19 PM
Water in radiator was fine seems like it condensation from the E85 ? 
