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Do you mean to cut into the damper with a grinder? Kind of like how you remove an old hub? Because that's what I was thinking before you posted this.
If you can get a good size cut "Near" the crank and far enough back, you may be able to use that chisel to crack that hub all the way through.
Or, the big jaw puller is a great idea too. I'd actually try this first...With heat.
A big three-jaw may work fine. I was thinking of splitting the damper similar to splitting a Dana bearing race, but drilling through the face of the damper rather than the side.
that's no big deal, get a puller for the outer ring, OR reverse the puller jaws so that they're grabbing the inside of the balancer ring.
You may need to persuade the puller to stay on, maybe with some welding wire?
Mine once literally broke off (shitty Dorman balancer) and I was still able to get it off
Originally Posted by LQ4-E39
overnighted a balancer from Summit, but because it was ordered after the evening shipping deadline it wasn't going to make it in time. There was just one left locally, so I snagged that and a 3 jaw puller. Unfortunately it was the same aftermarket brand as the one that failed, so I have to install the ACDelco that showed up too late. After scratching my head for a while figuring out how to pull her off, I came up with this:
Started here
Took a lot of wiggling to get everything lined up right
Did you ever get it off? Which method worked? I have never seen this so I just wanted to know how you got past it.
So I ended up renting a 7 ton puller from autozone and I STILL cannot get it off the issue I'm having now is after reversing the arms they just slide right off under pressure so I'm tying to figure out different ways to keep them from popping off I've tried wedging wrenches in between the balancer and the arms and that hasn't worked so I have no idea where to go from here
Flip the arms over and grab the inner part of the pulley
Or try the steering wheel puller.. drill holes, it won't be near as hard as you think and I use a steering wheel puller on pulleys on various cars all the time.
You can pick up a steering wheel puller cheap, drill the holes, run the bolts through the holes and put nuts on the bolts on the backside (screw tapping the holes just toss a nut on the bolt). With most pullers you'll need something to stick in the bolt hole of the crank for the puller to push off of. I use a long bolt that I ground to sit right in the front of the crank hole and I ground the head to just a hair smaller than the opening so it sits centered in the hole.
I've seen guys use long strike through pry bars and run up behind the pulley and sledge hammer them off on GM 3.8 V6 motors, and those are easily as hard to remove as a LS balancer. I've done it too on those but I wouldn't recommend it you could end up breaking the arms like the guy above, maybe, I don't know if it would actually happen. You'll have to beat on it, turn the crank, beat on it, turn the crank... Press fit items don't like coming on or off if they get cocked to the side so that's while you'll have to turn the hit then turn then hit.
If you're trying to grab the pulley from the inner ring and the jaws pop off try putting a hose clamp around the pulley and tighten around the pulley and arm. If that doesn't work maybe small c clamps will hold them.
I would also recommend trying to heat the center. How I would do it.. Put a little pressure on the puller then add heat. Also tap with hammer (on the pulley or center of pulley) sometimes when we press things tapping it with a hammer makes it start to move, something about harmonics..
During the whole process have penetrating lube sprayed on behind the pulley hopefully it will creep in and if all else fails you may have to walk the pulley back on with the lube on there to get more lube dispersed deeper into the pulley and try to pull it back off. Walking it back and forth like a stripped bolt that you save by lubing and turning a little back and forth. But I doubt you'll have to go that far.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 09-14-2017 at 04:42 PM.
You could also remove the arms and get some chain and bolt the chain to the puller. You could loop the chain around the pulley and back and run a bolt through both links. That won't slip off.
You could also remove the arms and get some chain and bolt the chain to the puller. You could loop the chain around the pulley and back and run a bolt through both links. That won't slip off.
You could also remove the arms and get some chain and bolt the chain to the puller. You could loop the chain around the pulley and back and run a bolt through both links. That won't slip off.
I'm going to go ahead and give this a try it's either this or like someone suggested above to maybe use welding wire to hold them on I'll post back up with results
I'm going to go ahead and give this a try it's either this or like someone suggested above to maybe use welding wire to hold them on I'll post back up with results
I'd also go for the steering wheel puller thing. I posted above to drill holes in the arms of the pulley and stick the bolts through the holes and put nuts on the bolts. No need to tap and thread the pulley. The welding wire may help but it won't help much. I've tried a million things, i'm a tech by trade.
i use a mapp torch on the hub of the pulley. i can slide 'em off by hand
ruins the front crank seal tho
Easily worth the trade off!
Are you using a small hand held tank like they sell at the auto parts store? I have one but I've always had good luck with my pullers so I haven't had to resort to this yet, surprisingly.
So guess what guys...I GOT IT OFF!!! I ended up using big zip ties and using two around each arm and the hub in a cross pattern to keep the arms from sliding and just started torquing as hard as possible and she popped and started sliding off without issue after that! So if anyone runs into the same issue hopefully this helps them also wanted to note that the autozone 7 ton puller worked great
So guess what guys...I GOT IT OFF!!! I ended up using big zip ties and using two around each arm and the hub in a cross pattern to keep the arms from sliding and just started torquing as hard as possible and she popped and started sliding off without issue after that! So if anyone runs into the same issue hopefully this helps them also wanted to note that the autozone 7 ton puller worked great
09-07-2017, 06:05 AM
the issue I'm having now is after reversing the arms they just slide right off under pressure so I'm tying to figure out different ways to keep them from popping off I've tried wedging wrenches in between the balancer and the arms and that hasn't worked so I have no idea where to go from here 
congratulation!