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Nope, had been laid off in the fall and had been working a low paying temp job until last month. Need to build up a savings as school (cnc machining) has emptied out most of my savings.
Will start again in the spring if my job holds somewhat steady...... we will see....
Nope, had been laid off in the fall and had been working a low paying temp job until last month. Need to build up a savings as school (cnc machining) has emptied out most of my savings.
Will start again in the spring if my job holds somewhat steady...... we will see....
Really hate to hear you have had troubles. Glad to hear your in school and looking forward to a future in the machining industry. Funny thats what I do 5 days a week. I run 4 swiss lathes and love it. I am in the fastener business and make anything from washers to needle valves. I started my career running 5 spindle Davenport screw machines and finally an opening came up for the CNC department. I hope the future is bright for ya and all works out!
Well, no good updates. School is finally over, been a busy working summer, and still working on the new garage, but have bought a new radiator core support, will need to prime/paint it, bought new o2 sensors, finally got my ecu and that is about it.
I need to find the ls1 coil ends for some custom length spark plug wires I have sitting around, need a couple more fuel fittings to get the fuel system done, I still need to find out what gauges (thinking dakota digital), driveshaft, throttle cable, radiator.
Oh, and I need to find someone to trade my floor shift, tilt column for a column shift tilt unit.
Well, still working on other priorities, nogo is too low on priority list to really get anything done, EXCEPT hording more parts.
Have a new starter, o2 sensors, AND......
Had a hard time deciding, was going to get a revmax 3600 stage five, but it was only a single disc, and this came up for sale, new, never mounted 3200 multi disc. It was built for a forced induction setup, but chris at circle d said it should flash to around 3200, maybe a little higher with the z06 cam setup. Price was pretty good, and I wanted the ability to lockup at WOT.
So, now I need to pull the tranny and might just pull the motor as I now have the itch to go with a bigger cam, something along the lines of a 228r or torquer v2
That converter looks too good to use! Machine metal is my weakness for sure! We need to move nogo to the top of the list and quickly.
It is a weakness of mine too, that is why I have a project cnc bridgeport that needs a new controler.
I have a HUGE tendency to keep changing plans when I don't get enough time to work on my cars. I have had three 454 big blocks, and only have had one in a car, several trannys, ect. Now this build is no different......
Well, that converter is now in the hands of a new owner, and now have it's replacement. It is now a circle D 3600 245mm stage III converter , I have a futral f6 cam coming, and 243 heads.
So now I need to swap the new parts on, and might as well just pull the motor and tranny out to make all the new changes easier, and then sell the 317 heads and z06 cam/springs/seals, ect.
Added a hughes flexplate,
Put the circle d converter in
I added the 243 heads with ls9 head gaskets and then used a throttle cable I picked up from a car at the u-pull yard that also had the correct pig tail connectors for the injectors
The cable was an easy fit, and I had forgot I grabbed it and was going to order the lokar cable.
I had to trim the plastic where it goes into the firewall as it used a plastic pinch clip that was square, so just shaved it till it was round and will make a couple of hold down clips.
but looks like I need a new one of these, the plastic is pretty well destroyed, it holds the gas pedal to the firewall, what is this called, and who reproduces these?
the pedal only needed a slit cut in so the cable would slip in
and this is how it fits together. Very pleased :yes:
I thankfully found some fittings from middlefingerspeedshop that gave me enough clearance for the 4l80e without touching the floorpan
It looks like my poor storage of the power steering pump resulted in breaking off the plastic nipple that the return line attaches to. Am I doomed to find another or does someone know of a product that will hold, maybe a two part epoxy?
I tried rebending the lines that came with the pump, and it did not work out like I want. What have others done for the power steering lines? Can I cut the hard line and run braided hose, or is the pressure too high?
Am I doomed to find another or does someone know of a product that will hold, maybe a two part epoxy?
Yes you are doomed! I would source either a new replacement or a good used one. They should be cheap to purchase new. What year of vehicle did it come off of?
Did you see my response to your accelerator pedal bracket above?
Cheapest I could find it on a quick search was $65 on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-2002-CAMARO-FIREBIRD-LS1-POWER-STEERING-RESERVOIR-98-99-00-01-02-26068934-/141126798445?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2002%7CModel%3ACamaro&hash=item20dbd00c6d&vxp=mtr
You can run an external reservoir like the circle track guys but the compact design sure is nice when the hood is open.
You can search on car-part.com for the junkyards local to you. I use it all of the time with great success.
Below is a link describing what I used, but if I had it to do over I would just buy the fittings and hose from the local hydraulic shop, cut it to length, mark the ends & hose for rotation/clocking, and taken it back to them for crimping. If I recall correctly it ends up being slightly cheaper to adapt to -6AN rather than find the fittings/ends for metric o-ring on the pump and inverted flare on the steering box.
Regarding the pump reservoir, I would look for a new one, but if there is room to drill the hole larger and clean, you might be able to use a dry sump/tank AN/JIC fitting from Redhorse Performance P/N 8832-06-2. This looks like a bulkhead fitting with washers on either side to form the seal. Actually I am pretty sure it is just an inverted flare adapter with a nut and seals added, but that works just fine.
Thanks all. I will try and find a local shop that does hydrolic hoses. tsnow, yup, had seen your response and already have it installed thanks to fast shipping
It has been a long while, but career changes, new hobbies, and life in general got in the way. Well, finally rolled the nova out of mothball storage and put in my playroom (second garage) with my CNC Fadal. First time the car had seen sun in.....well over five years, too bad not under power.
Anyways, took a look, and need to redo the engine/tranny placement. When prepairing the car to move I notice I did not have the tranny centered in the tunnel. Need to cut off the mount on the tranny crossmember and move it, and dump the JZmotorsports oil pan as I finally measured the motor/tranny angle to the chassis and not going to work without cutting the tunnel.
Looking at selling a bare (except for bolts and gasket) but new f-body oil pan and the Holley 302-1 pan (same thing it seems) to help buy the soon to come out holley 302-3 pan. Just getting back into this, so need to read up to find all what is needed, and hopefully the dynatech headers work, and will not need to cut the transmission tunnel.
Has anyone used the 302-2 pan and 4l80e in 3rd gen nova or 1st gen camaro?
First I'll say it's great to see you posting and I'm happy to hear the Nova is out of storage. I've been through a few mothball periods on my car too, but I am glad I eventually knocked out my to do list and got it running. All the hurdles and rework got to be discouraging until I hit reset and laid out a plan of attack.
How off center is your transmission? Mine was off by a couple inches if I recall correctly and all I had to do was loosen the bolts at each mounting location and shift it over a bit with a little tension on the engine hoist and a jack under the transmission. The little bit of play in each hole adds up to quite a bit along the length of the engine/transmission assembly. It might be worth checking/trying.
I can't help on the driveline angle / oilpan / tunnel concerns, but I suggest looking at the X-body thread linked in my sig and see what others have done with 4L80Es. I thought you had tunnel clearance before; what changed? If your main concern is driveline angle, you might be able to compensate with angled leaf spring shims. As long as the operating angels of the joints are close at tranny output and differential, it doesn't matter much what the angles are relative to the car/earth.
The Hooker 1st-gen F-body/3rd-gen X-body engine brackets and 4L80 trans crossmember were both developed specifically for use with the Holley 302-2 pan and will work with the coming 302-3 pan in the same fashion. These two images depict what that configuration looks like on both the front and tail ends of the subframe.
I thought you had tunnel clearance before; what changed? If your main concern is driveline angle, you might be able to compensate with angled leaf spring shims. As long as the operating angels of the joints are close at tranny output and differential, it doesn't matter much what the angles are relative to the car/earth.
I have tunnel clearance if I leave it with 5* downward angle compared to the body. Not sure if I like the look of the motor tilting back that much. Probably would be fine for lining up with the output of the rear since it will be slightly raised as I don't like the lowered rear look. Either way need to make up new frame stands as I want the motor forward and slightly lower and now it is much easier to make up some stands with the cnc
03-04-2012, 03:45 PM
, I have a futral f6 cam coming, and 243 heads. 
