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Installed V2 fuel tank and worked out most of the kinks in the wiring. There are a couple of sticking points, such as the impedance of the fuel level sensors working backwards relative to the V1. Should have those issues worked on in a month or so.
Installed V2 fuel tank and worked out most of the kinks in the wiring. There are a couple of sticking points, such as the impedance of the fuel level sensors working backwards relative to the V1. Should have those issues worked on in a month or so.
Are you using the V2 fuel pump module? Or did you build something else from other parts?
Absolutely loving the car so far. It's been a blast!
Mike, my issue was self inflicted. I went and test drove some 5th and 6th gens like a dumbass. It was at that point I realized that no matter how much more I put into my V, there were some things that would just be better (for my tastes) in a Camaro.
Ultimately, I was ready to bolt my mp112 on the V and go all out for about 525-550rwhp on my stock bottom ls6. But after I drove a few ZL1's I changed my mind. The one I picked up puts down about 630rwhp without me needing to do anything to it, and it doesn't even have a cam or any blower or TB porting yet. Plus the mag ride was pretty awesome, and the room in the engine bay in these things is nutz!
Hey if anyone is interested, I'm going to sell my mp112 kit soon, so look for that in the classifieds in the next week or so.
- Removed the clutch master cylinder (again). Pictures to follow later; somethin' ain't right with my car, because this Wilwood MC has the same sort of abnormal wear of the piston that the previous Tilton MC had.
- Removed the clutch master cylinder (again). Pictures to follow later; somethin' ain't right with my car, because this Wilwood MC has the same sort of abnormal wear of the piston that the previous Tilton MC had.
Is the stud on your clutch pedal (where the rod end attaches) causing the rod end to bind? If so, it’s probably putting side load on the MC piston. Some superfine polish or Dremel brush and a dab of moly paste might fix that.
That sucks. Looks like your headlight bracket was busted too. RockAuto actually has the bumper covers available, for probably the best price I've seen. They're unpainted, however.
Is the stud on your clutch pedal (where the rod end attaches) causing the rod end to bind? If so, it’s probably putting side load on the MC piston. Some superfine polish or Dremel brush and a dab of moly paste might fix that.
Hmmm, dunno. When I've installed/removed it, the rod arm seems to slide on cleanly/easily without binding up. But obviously that doesn't mean it doesn't bind up when it's actually got a load on it. I'm not sure how to test that, though.
i had an intermittent start issue. played with relays, hard jumping the starter from the fuse box etc. i replaced the started with a truck version from amazon and a ring and terminal set up instead of the plastic. has started every time for the last year and works awesome.
I have considered changing out the starter to get rid of the harness connector (and go to a ring terminal like you did), but the starter tested OK, so for now I'll keep it. I've got a starter blanket and some more wire protector / heat shielding that'll be going on in the next couple days.
bigti - When you say "truck version", what application did you use?
After replacing the harness connector and wrapping a new starter blanket around my existing starter (which tested good at Autozone), the car worked fine for a few weeks, and then once again didn't want to start when I went to the track.
[It's like there's some sort of R-compound interlock with my starter. It died at Summit Point the first weekend of August. Came home from the track event, spent a couple weeks wasting time to fix a misfire issue, "fixed" the starter, car worked fine as of the last weekend of August. Drove it for 3 weeks, no problems. Went to Dominion Raceway 2 weekends ago. Unloaded the car, threw the R-compounds on, went to start the car so I could drive over to the air pump - >click<. No start. WHAT. THE. ****!?!? I ended up pop-starting it for the rest of the day, taking advantage of the slight downward slope of the paddock to get it rolling, until the clutch master cylinder died and ended the day.]
So, I'm going to pull the starter and replace it this time. RockAuto has the OEM ACDelco (reman) for $175 (after core return), or the aftermarket ACDelco (reman) for $140 (after core return). Summit has options from $120 - $550 (). Since I just bought and installed a new harness connector, I'm probably going to be stubborn and keep that for now rather than going with the ring terminal. Any suggestions?
bigti - When you say "truck version", what application did you use?
After replacing the harness connector and wrapping a new starter blanket around my existing starter (which tested good at Autozone), the car worked fine for a few weeks, and then once again didn't want to start when I went to the track.
[It's like there's some sort of R-compound interlock with my starter. It died at Summit Point the first weekend of August. Came home from the track event, spent a couple weeks wasting time to fix a misfire issue, "fixed" the starter, car worked fine as of the last weekend of August. Drove it for 3 weeks, no problems. Went to Dominion Raceway 2 weekends ago. Unloaded the car, threw the R-compounds on, went to start the car so I could drive over to the air pump - >click<. No start. WHAT. THE. ****!?!? I ended up pop-starting it for the rest of the day, taking advantage of the slight downward slope of the paddock to get it rolling, until the clutch master cylinder died and ended the day.]
So, I'm going to pull the starter and replace it this time. RockAuto has the OEM ACDelco (reman) for $175 (after core return), or the aftermarket ACDelco (reman) for $140 (after core return). Summit has options from $120 - $550 (). Since I just bought and installed a new harness connector, I'm probably going to be stubborn and keep that for now rather than going with the ring terminal. Any suggestions?
There's basically 2 truck versions....6.0 and 5.3
The 6.0 truck starter is about 1/2" longer than the V1 starters (LS2 and LS6) and it does have the ring terminal solenoid connection.
The 5.3 truck starter is the same size as the V1 starter but has the ring terminal solenoid connection instead of the stupid plug found on the V1.
I use the 5.3 starter because it's much easier to install. I've used the 6.0 starter in two of my V1s and in both cases I had to take the cat off, loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up to get it in the car whereas the 5.3 starter goes right in without having to do any of this. I knida discovered this by accident when replacing the starter in my virgin LS2 car which still had the factory starter in it (both my other ones already had 6.0 starters on them and I didn't know it...I was simply having those starters rebuilt and never put 2 and 2 together). I was so happy when the LS2 starter simply fell out of the car.
The 6.0 starter is more powerful than the 5.3 starter but I don't need it and don't miss it.
Well my wheel saga is coming to a close thank god. Got my last bent wheel off the car thanks to my last one being straight (the spare) My front driver was tweaked at the hub......
So close out my wheels I need to ask a stupid tire question. I know there are several that run 275s on the oem 8.5 and while all the numbers say no it can and is commonly done at the expense of tread life. Well tires last 2 years max with me so I really don't care too much. If I go up to a 275 sport comp will it really make much of a difference in traction?
09-17-2017, 08:05 PM
). Since I just bought and installed a new harness connector, I'm probably going to be stubborn and keep that for now rather than going with the ring terminal. Any suggestions? 