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Ordered a new 102mm lsxr intake to replace my now dead 92. Sigh.
It arrives Tuesday, then off to the paint shop for a antique silver flag paint job and hopefully Friday/Sat it will be installed on the car and making some HP.
I've been fighting bolts that keep backing out on the front, rear and mount bolts. I've replaced the perimeter bolts with lock nuts, and that helped but end of the day the 15yr old plastic just doesn't hold up.
So yes I can fix the cracks, but I'm over it and moving forward.
Gonna be a busy weekend next week.
Repaired my map sensor harness extension today also. Can't wait to finally be done futzing with the intake and get back to dialing in the car and never worrying about the intake again.
I'll be installing a new heat shield also as it works, very very well on my car.
Ordered a new 102mm lsxr intake to replace my now dead 92. Sigh.
It arrives Tuesday, then off to the paint shop for a antique silver flag paint job and hopefully Friday/Sat it will be installed on the car and making some HP.
I've been fighting bolts that keep backing out on the front, rear and mount bolts. I've replaced the perimeter bolts with lock nuts, and that helped but end of the day the 15yr old plastic just doesn't hold up.
So yes I can fix the cracks, but I'm over it and moving forward.
Gonna be a busy weekend next week.
Repaired my map sensor harness extension today also. Can't wait to finally be done futzing with the intake and get back to dialing in the car and never worrying about the intake again.
I'll be installing a new heat shield also as it works, very very well on my car.
-Byron
You live in the extreme heat too.... Time to get away from plastic intakes. Go with an aftermarket aluminum one.
You live in the extreme heat too.... Time to get away from plastic intakes. Go with an aftermarket aluminum one.
Yes indeed its a bit warm on this side of the planet. It would have cost me the same to do aluminum as it would plastic, and less heat soak.
I can add a heat shield, and I will to the new one, but I wouldn't consider an aluminum intake without meth and I am not prepared to spend out on a meth sprayer just yet.
Yes indeed its a bit warm on this side of the planet. It would have cost me the same to do aluminum as it would plastic, and less heat soak.
I can add a heat shield, and I will to the new one, but I wouldn't consider an aluminum intake without meth and I am not prepared to spend out on a meth sprayer just yet.
-Byron
I guess i'm not entirely familiar with your build, compression ratio etc....... but NA, there is no need for meth unless you want to push the timing to the moon or you have severe knock issues. At that point, get better gas,octane boosters, Higher octane race gas, or e85 (probably not available there though i'm assuming). My point is that your new plastic intake will have the same problem as the last one. Heat breaks down plastic and accelerates the aging. That will never happen with aluminum.
One other point. If you are that concerned with intake heatsoak, fyi.... those heatshields you're putting under the intake will only make it worse on long drives when all the temperatures equalize under the engine bay. You'll be trapping the hot air in between the shield and intake and it'll be reflecting more into the palstic intake than the heatshield. Those kinds of products are great for short excursions like dyno pulls and with no hoods on, but on any constant running or long term steady state drive they become pretty useless and do the opposite. You want as large of an air gap as possible, and some kind of airflow going through to take away the hot air. The problem is, in an engine bay the air stops at the firewall and stalls out and just hangs around usually. So not a ton of options there.
The biggest bang for your buck is getting access to fresh intake air outside of the engine bay, and relieving any hot sources in the engine out the top of the hood via functional vents. A ducted radiator cowl out the front of the hood, and two longer vents running front to back positioned mid to rear of the hood on each side of the engine to exit hot exhaust air. It'll also reduce front end lift at high speeds It's hard to do all those things and keep it looking like a stock car though.
I guess i'm not entirely familiar with your build, compression ratio etc....... but NA, there is no need for meth unless you want to push the timing to the moon or you have severe knock issues. At that point, get better gas,octane boosters, Higher octane race gas, or e85 (probably not available there though i'm assuming). My point is that your new plastic intake will have the same problem as the last one. Heat breaks down plastic and accelerates the aging. That will never happen with aluminum.
One other point. If you are that concerned with intake heatsoak, fyi.... those heatshields you're putting under the intake will only make it worse on long drives when all the temperatures equalize under the engine bay. You'll be trapping the hot air in between the shield and intake and it'll be reflecting more into the palstic intake than the heatshield. Those kinds of products are great for short excursions like dyno pulls and with no hoods on, but on any constant running or long term steady state drive they become pretty useless and do the opposite. You want as large of an air gap as possible, and some kind of airflow going through to take away the hot air. The problem is, in an engine bay the air stops at the firewall and stalls out and just hangs around usually. So not a ton of options there.
The biggest bang for your buck is getting access to fresh intake air outside of the engine bay, and relieving any hot sources in the engine out the top of the hood via functional vents. A ducted radiator cowl out the front of the hood, and two longer vents running front to back positioned mid to rear of the hood on each side of the engine to exit hot exhaust air. It'll also reduce front end lift at high speeds It's hard to do all those things and keep it looking like a stock car though.
I will agree to disagree with you on the heat shield, it has actually done wonders for the way the car runs. I have had it on several very long drives and its been an improvement as it no longer pulls as much timing after about 20-30 min of run time. The material I used is quite similar to the material we use on aircraft exhausts, and it does a very good job for both applications. Since adding the heat shielding to the intake and air box, its helped quite a bit.
I do agree with you on accessing air outside the vehicle, and that is also in the works. I am building a system to pull and funnel air from the lower grill and brake duct into the volant box. Right now I am getting 136f to 140s IAT with the shielded box, which is a drop from 156f previously and 176f with the K&N.
I do intend on adding heat vents and have a sweet hood design in the works. The intake has been the weak point of the car for some time now, and I have patched it together for some time, it was time for it to go.
A small meth setup is beneficial for cooling and will be needed later. Race gas and octane boosters for a daily driver is not an option.
I got it with the kit back in the day. Might want to reach out to magnuson and see if they have any kicking around.
Found it. Pulley Boys has them. Later in the year after things settle down, I'm going to go the the 2.7 pulley and long tubes. Want to get over 500 RW
Edit. Just ate up a new 5.0 (although I had a fox body for 18 years) My stock coils must have been bad. With the new MSD coils, I wasn't watching the tach and hit the limiter in 2nd, but the race was over anyway. Looking forward to doing the headers and pulley round Christmas.
Now to figure out a way to ship to the paint shop so I can slap it on.
Unfortunately most of the courier places are shut down for the outbreak, so we will see. Hopefully someone will make a delivery. Otherwise I can make a 2 hr round trip Thursday afternoon.
Found it. Pulley Boys has them. Later in the year after things settle down, I'm going to go the the 2.7 pulley and long tubes. Want to get over 500 RW
Edit. Just ate up a new 5.0 (although I had a fox body for 18 years) My stock coils must have been bad. With the new MSD coils, I wasn't watching the tach and hit the limiter in 2nd, but the race was over anyway. Looking forward to doing the headers and pulley round Christmas.
500whp is tough with stock LS6 motor and blower. See if you can get lucky and find an LS2 90mm magnuson adapter housing and pickup a cheap 90mm LS2 throttlebody to pickup some more gains. They are rare but i'm sure there are a few floating around out there still. It'll put you right under 500whp with the 2.7 pulley. Throw a cam at it and I think you can break 500whp. Blower porting would help too, but depends on how much time and $effort you want to put into a dead platform when cheap LSA blowers are for sale everywhere.
I got it with the kit back in the day. Might want to reach out to magnuson and see if they have any kicking around.
Originally Posted by barrok69
500whp is tough with stock LS6 motor and blower. See if you can get lucky and find an LS2 90mm magnuson adapter housing and pickup a cheap 90mm LS2 throttlebody to pickup some more gains. They are rare but i'm sure there are a few floating around out there still. It'll put you right under 500whp with the 2.7 pulley. Throw a cam at it and I think you can break 500whp. Blower porting would help too, but depends on how much time and $effort you want to put into a dead platform when cheap LSA blowers are for sale everywhere.
Stock Cam is reground and the heads are ported and polished. My engine builder was really disappointed I didn't do the headers when I put the engine back in the car. These cars all have fuel delivery problems which is another weakest. I have the the stock fuel pump and Kenne Bell boost a pump instead of dealing with the running the basket dry with an aftermarket fuel pump.
The bowl work on the stock heads reduced the compression slightly, but I'm hoping the smaller pulley and headers will work well with the work my engine builder did on the cam and heads. I'm at 470 now. Motor is set up to also handle a 200 shot of nitrous although the tranny is another story. I purchased the Nitrous Outlet dedicate fuel system before I ran out of money 2 years ago.
By the time I get this project done the car may be 20 years old. An electric Camary may have 700 HP by then
This is not the greatest painted intake in the world....this is just a tribute. (I will add the stars later on down the road when I have more free time)
The stars are beyond the technical capabilities of the shop doing the painting, so I'll have to live with it until after this Covid crap is over. The shop that did the original is closed until further notice as far as I know.
I am very happy with the results given the circumstances.
-Byron
Final results awaiting clear to dry. Stars will be added later to match my previous manifold. My previous fast 92.
I need to redo my steam vent setup, a stock setup would clear, but I have a -4an steam vent kit installed and sit doesn't clear the driver's side forward corner.
I think I'm going to reverse it 180 and do a single point from drivers to passenger side front, then the cross over tube I'll do in rubber tubing to the aft passenger side, cross over and T to the reservoir from the rear until I can get some fittings in the mail. A pair of 90, 45 and 120 swivels would give me options.
I also have to make yet another brake booster line as it's 4" too short.
All those considering a fast 102, I'd recommend looking at that stuff prior to attempting to install it, it's 'uge and at least 1/2-1/4" larger everywhere. Something to plan for.
-Byron I did need spacers, and the old mount bolt washers were exactly the right height for my STS V injectors. Without the washer, the injector top seats too low and you cannot install the safety clips.
Finally got my VXDIAG Tech2 emulator working (it’s awesome!) and I found why my airbag light was on. It was the left front seat belt pre-tensioner (code B0065). I had ordered those airbag emulators and plugged it into the faulty flight and it removed the airbag light from my dash and the error code.
I found a new OEM one for $75 shipped so I’m going to buy it and replace it. For now the airbag emulator works so it won’t come up on my dash and radio.
Finally got my VXDIAG Tech2 emulator working (it’s awesome!) and I found why my airbag light was on. It was the left front seat belt pre-tensioner (code B0065). I had ordered those airbag emulators and plugged it into the faulty flight and it removed the airbag light from my dash and the error code.
I found a new OEM one for $75 shipped so I’m going to buy it and replace it. For now the airbag emulator works so it won’t come up on my dash and radio.
Is this similar to a Tech2? Where did you purchase from? Can you share the link?
I think it’s better than a Tech2. It’s a Tech2 emulator. My laptop is touchscreen so you don’t have to toggle through buttons and touch the selection.
I bought mine off of eBay and it was shipped from China but got it within a week. Below is a direct link to the sellers website but he/she sells on eBay and Amazon.
I think it’s better than a Tech2. It’s a Tech2 emulator. My laptop is touchscreen so you don’t have to toggle through buttons and touch the selection.
I bought mine off of eBay and it was shipped from China but got it within a week. Below is a direct link to the sellers website but he/she sells on eBay and Amazon.
That's is what I'm looking at getting if my tech 2 clone dies.
Did you have any issues running the software? I've heard you need a shell program or something like that to get it running. Does it come with good instructions and software?
04-02-2020, 12:52 PM
It's hard to do all those things and keep it looking like a stock car though. 
but got it within a week. Below is a direct link to the sellers website but he/she sells on eBay and Amazon.