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I’ll create a new thread so we won’t clog up the intent of this thread. Be on the lookout for it.
Originally Posted by Byron
That's is what I'm looking at getting if my tech 2 clone dies.
Did you have any issues running the software? I've heard you need a shell program or something like that to get it running. Does it come with good instructions and software?
Took out rear set/deck to install at BT45-VETTE. Installed no problem. Started trying to figure out where to run wires (mic and USB/aux jack) to the front, so started taking the door sills off. Pain, but only broke one tab. Patted myself on the back......then pulled up the carpet back a bit......soaked. How the fffuuuuu does water get to the back floor board? Only the padding under the carpet is wet. Feeling the top, you would never know. Doesn't smell like it's been there long. I'm confused??? Any ideas? Front sunroof drain line plugged?Seeped to the back floor?
Pulled the heads off on Tuesday. Came across a used set of Kooks so decided this was a good time to tear into it since I'm on furlough for a couple weeks. Grabbed a cam and related bits, going to do a little bit of blending on the heads. Left front strut was blown out but under warranty so sent that back today.
Got the pistons cleaned up real nice, cylinders look good for 110k miles. #8 was running like ****, carbon all over the intake valve, exhaust valve was white unlike all the others.
#8 intake valve stem, looks like I need to throw at least one valve in it.
Got all the valves cleaned and carbon out of the combustion chambers today. Heads going to soak in a warm bath tomorrow, metal garbage can on a turkey fryer burner with some simple green, the burr set I ordered should be here Monday so I can "port" next week.
Not sure what to do about the valves, planned on lapping them anyways, just throw in one or is there a better flowing valve set out there that won't break the bank? I've already cooked the books as much as I can to keep the cost of the project under the radar.
Took out rear set/deck to install at BT45-VETTE. Installed no problem. Started trying to figure out where to run wires (mic and USB/aux jack) to the front, so started taking the door sills off. Pain, but only broke one tab.
For some reason I have 2 sets of those in the garage. I need to check to make sure they're intact, but if you want a replacement, let me know.
Originally Posted by BaMaDuDe87
Patted myself on the back......then pulled up the carpet back a bit......soaked. How the fffuuuuu does water get to the back floor board? Only the padding under the carpet is wet. Feeling the top, you would never know. Doesn't smell like it's been there long. I'm confused??? Any ideas? Front sunroof drain line plugged?Seeped to the back floor?
Maybe water from the rear door? Try pulling the rubber seal along the bottom of the door away from the sheet metal, see if any water (and mung) comes out. Any sounds of sloshing water in the doors?
For some reason I have 2 sets of those in the garage. I need to check to make sure they're intact, but if you want a replacement, let me know.
Maybe water from the rear door? Try pulling the rubber seal along the bottom of the door away from the sheet metal, see if any water (and mung) comes out. Any sounds of sloshing water in the doors?
I appreciate it, but I think I'll be fine. The part I broke was the top of the B-pillar (the part at the top that "hooks" into the body)
With the water, I'm now even more confused. Pulled the front seat. The front piece of carpet is dry except the verrrryyy front on the outside. Could see the drain being the the problem here. The back piece is wet at the back (right "under" the back seat and then the front of the back piece, so what would be under the front seat. So driver side carpet is wet in 3 different places (front, middle, and back) with dry spots in-between? Pulling the rest of the interior out tomorrow to play where else is wet.
I appreciate it, but I think I'll be fine. The part I broke was the top of the B-pillar (the part at the top that "hooks" into the body)
With the water, I'm now even more confused. Pulled the front seat. The front piece of carpet is dry except the verrrryyy front on the outside. Could see the drain being the the problem here. The back piece is wet at the back (right "under" the back seat and then the front of the back piece, so what would be under the front seat. So driver side carpet is wet in 3 different places (front, middle, and back) with dry spots in-between? Pulling the rest of the interior out tomorrow to play where else is wet.
Try blowing low pressure air through the drains. It may force everything out, I had a similar problem and I was kinda shocked at how much crud came out.
Try blowing low pressure air through the drains. It may force everything out, I had a similar problem and I was kinda shocked at how much crud came out.
-Byron
How do you get to the back lines to drain? I might have to pull the headliner either way, the fronts are clogged. Cant even get a trimmer line started on the driver side.
How do you get to the back lines to drain? I might have to pull the headliner either way, the fronts are clogged. Cant even get a trimmer line started on the driver side.
Remove the trunk trim on each side of the trunk. The rear sunroof drains run down the C-pillars into the trunk, then go through a rubber grommet thing on the back of each wheel well and dump into the rear wheel wells. I cleaned both of mine out last year after the passenger C-pillar and back corner of the headliner got wet. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics in the trunk, but it should be pretty easy to figure out once you get the trim panels off back there.
As the title stated I replaced the rear upper control arm bushings with RevShift ones. Took a total of 3 hours start to finish. I didn’t fully drop the cradle just enough to get to h
the control arm bolts. Ran into an issue trying to take off ball joint but just had to use my man muscle to hit it out. Also just used a 13/16 deep socket to hit the bushings out. They really needed to be replaced. No more squeaks in the back. It was rubbing metal to metal but didn’t mess up the control arm.
I replaced the front UCA and LCA bushing. Right tools help a lot, too bad I only had half of them. Harbor Freight ran out of the ball joint service tool so I just picked up the extra attachments and a large c-clamp. It didn’t have all the right sizes to squeeze the bushings out so I had to do the sawzall and hit it out trick to do the LCA bushings. No more squeaks and the car drives so much better now!!!!
BTW thank you to all the people that do write-ups. I tried to stop and take pics but i just wanted to get things done.
Next on the list is replacing my drivers side bottom seat cover. Comes in on Thursday. Can’t wait to have a seat without a 2” rip. More to come on where I got it done at.
Azn2dmax I'm looking forward to any info on seats.
Besides from my 07 V in my garage there I have an 07 V6 CTS (my snow car) and 08 V6 DI Sport CTS (gave it to the wife).
The leather quality on the 07 V6 seats is by far my favorite over the V and the 08.
It looks thicker, shinier and sturdier, texture is much better and it does not wear like the V leather does (shame GM).
The obvious downside for the 07 V6 seats is that they do not have the suede inserts, they are not white stitched.
Also the V driver seat for some reason feels slightly firmer (perhaps harder foam? or less miles who knows).
I seriously am contemplating swapping the seats or seat covers from my 07 V6 to my 07 V I just need to find a way to suede the seat covers front and back on the base CTS seat covers.
Anyone who can provide tips on how or who to do this properly and how much it would cost it would be greatly appreciated!
So yes I want to get rid of the leather in my V regardless of it's shape, it's not as good looking or sturdy
I seriously am contemplating swapping the seats or seat covers from my 07 V6 to my 07 V I just need to find a way to suede the seat covers front and back on the base CTS seat covers.
Anyone who can provide tips on how or who to do this properly and how much it would cost it would be greatly appreciated!
Search for automotive upholstery shops in your area, I would think they could easily handle something like that. And they can probably give some options on different fabrics - suede vs Alcantara vs other fake suedes.
I've had a busy week but finally got around to working on my V. I replaced the dead motor mounts with a set of black CS mounts and a matching trans mount. The motor mounts were pretty annoying to get out, but not as bad to put back in. I had a pretty big delay because I removed the starter and the stupid connector on the solenoid wire broke. Regardless, the outcome is awesome. The sloppy, rumbly, grinding and vibrating noises are gone and it feels so much better to drive.
I installed a used set of Hotchkis sway bars. I haven't driven enough to know what I like better about them yet. I've only made one loop around the local off-ramp and don't have a good feel for the balance of the car compared to what it used to be. I also rotated the cheap Chinese Haida HD927 tires at the same time and they're garbage.
I replaced my headlight bulbs. That's a rather miserable job. Then I decided I was going to sand and polish the lenses, only to find that the fog on the lenses was actually an old vinyl film. After a couple hours of gentle removal and cleaning the lenses are like new. I suppose that means I should get a new film for them!
My rear bumper skin was hanging loose after a trip to the body shop, so I took a closer look and found that they skipped installing the three clips under the 'spare tire well'. It turns out the sheet metal there was also rather bent up, so I straightened it and popped in new clips.
It feels like a different car now! But now more than ever I notice the terrible sounds and vibrations of the clutch and flywheel that must be in rough shape. I guess it is time to order an LS7 kit.
Pro tip: LOL Instead of using plastic clips go source some bolt clips and bolts. I used this on my front bumper for the bottom engine shield and other places instead of plastic clips. Holds a lot better.
Originally Posted by Kevin Hall
I've had a busy week but finally got around to working on my V. I replaced the dead motor mounts with a set of black CS mounts and a matching trans mount. The motor mounts were pretty annoying to get out, but not as bad to put back in. I had a pretty big delay because I removed the starter and the stupid connector on the solenoid wire broke. Regardless, the outcome is awesome. The sloppy, rumbly, grinding and vibrating noises are gone and it feels so much better to drive.
I installed a used set of Hotchkis sway bars. I haven't driven enough to know what I like better about them yet. I've only made one loop around the local off-ramp and don't have a good feel for the balance of the car compared to what it used to be. I also rotated the cheap Chinese Haida HD927 tires at the same time and they're garbage.
I replaced my headlight bulbs. That's a rather miserable job. Then I decided I was going to sand and polish the lenses, only to find that the fog on the lenses was actually an old vinyl film. After a couple hours of gentle removal and cleaning the lenses are like new. I suppose that means I should get a new film for them!
My rear bumper skin was hanging loose after a trip to the body shop, so I took a closer look and found that they skipped installing the three clips under the 'spare tire well'. It turns out the sheet metal there was also rather bent up, so I straightened it and popped in new clips.
It feels like a different car now! But now more than ever I notice the terrible sounds and vibrations of the clutch and flywheel that must be in rough shape. I guess it is time to order an LS7 kit.
Pro tip: LOL Instead of using plastic clips go source some bolt clips and bolts. I used this on my front bumper for the bottom engine shield and other places instead of plastic clips. Holds a lot better.
Hopefully tomorrow the shop by me has lift space so I can get them swapped out.
-Byron
unfortunately it's the pressure line. Again. I'll do the cooler lines also and hopefully not have to worry about it again.
I also discovered that I can go exactly 15 min between reservoir filling. No more, no less.
The shop it's at is a specialty shop, and they are fabricating the lines to something hopefully better specs.
Today.....dropped the headliner and blew out the sunroof drain tubes. Also, pulled off the overhead console to put the springs back in correctly with the ****. Trucked it back inside when a storm started coming through and just ordered a new sunroof switch since the paint (overlay?) on mine is flaking off and got worse when I was handling it.
Drove it and enjoyed listening to the stupid ******* high oil temp alarm going off repeatedly. I'm guessing the ground wire (routed to the ground point on the passenger strut tower) has broken or the connection needs to be cleaned up, because the temperature was jumping around, and was rising and falling depending on whether I had my foot on or off the brake pedal.
04-23-2020, 10:29 PM
I'm guessing the ground wire (routed to the ground point on the passenger strut tower) has broken or the connection needs to be cleaned up, because the temperature was jumping around, and was rising and falling depending on whether I had my foot on or off the brake pedal.