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Upgraded my keys to an Audi style flip key, super happy with the results. Had to take them apart, so I decided to do a video to show people how should they go this route.
The need to take them apart will depend on the capability of your chosen lock smith. You can drive out the pin and remove the blank for the best possible results, but I really didn't want to buy a 1/8" pin punch just for my keys.
After getting em cut, you simply program the new key as normal. Then you get a tech 2 and program the fobs. Remember that the order you program the fobs will denote the driver's number order.
Over the past few weeks replaced a few things on this old girl, replaced the battery and alternator cable, alternator with a ACDelco unit,the water pump, thermostat and housing,upper and lower hose and radiator (Napa),replace the pulley between the alternator and balancer, replaced the serpentine belt tensioner and the serpentine belt as well(ACDelco)Next the balancer will be replaced with a powerbond race performance balancer and ARP bolt and the front seal as well and UMI motor mounts.
I had the trans rebuilt to a stage 2 with all the goodies and a LS7 clutch and tick speed bleeder back in July,I also did the rear main seal and plate. Added the last few pieces to the shifter linkage and bushings to the hurst shifter.
I replaced the exhaust manifolds gaskets, valve cover gaskets, a few of the hoses around the intake manifold and a few vacuum leaks it had. I am also looking for a manual Solstice or srx differential as mine is near its end of life, still a gen1 diff with 142k. I also have an appointment on Friday to replace my walker cats under warranty so I can pass the state ref ticket I got for headers and exhaust I also replaced all four 02’s last month. Pretty much going back to stock for right now, until I get my car settled with the state ref. I also bought a spare ECM just in case mine if mine ***** up.
Last edited by 1CL3ANSUP3RSPORT; 01-05-2021 at 10:45 PM.
Finally at long last got her on the dyno. 424whp 414wtq.
Going to replace the wheel bearings as I kept getting a tcs issue and it would yank timing up top. Have some fueling issues I need to address, dial it down a bit, but otherwise a very healthy result.
I'm super happy with the results so far, but there is definitely more to be had safely, so after I swap plugs to TR6ix from tr5 and get my hubs I'll go back and see what she does.
Good looking numbers sir - I had found the limit of flow on my 2.5" dual setup and ended up pulling timing. Moving to a 3" dual setup got me another 25hp and 40tq with the added timing and flow.
Good looking numbers sir - I had found the limit of flow on my 2.5" dual setup and ended up pulling timing. Moving to a 3" dual setup got me another 25hp and 40tq with the added timing and flow.
The dyno place is fairly certain a slight drop in temp range and reducing the richness will net the remaining few HP. I am also pretty sure new wheel hubs will stop the TCS from killing some power also. I need to address IATs also as it's rediclious high, even fully heat shielded.
Noise restrictions and ground clearance is why I stick with a 2.5" Borla catback. I don't believe it's a restriction on the car, but in theory it could be. I looked into doing a 3" when I got the car, but it's just too loud and I'd pop the 95db limit. It's taken me years of adjustments to get the clearance and stance exactly where I want it, an additional 1/2" of pipes to contend with isn't worth the headache for me.
I can't argue the ground clearance but you can use 3" and hit both your power and noise goals. Seen it done and it would likely be noticeable at your power level. Moderate flow through mufflers and extra resonators/bullets would do the trick. We have room for 2 (each side) between the cats and the mufflers. That extra 1/2" equals a lot more flow. 19.6 sq in vs 28.2 sq in - roughly 44% more cross sectional area. You've probably seen this but fun to post links!
I can't argue the ground clearance but you can use 3" and hit both your power and noise goals. Seen it done and it would likely be noticeable at your power level. Moderate flow through mufflers and extra resonators/bullets would do the trick. We have room for 2 (each side) between the cats and the mufflers. That extra 1/2" equals a lot more flow. 19.6 sq in vs 28.2 sq in - roughly 44% more cross sectional area. You've probably seen this but fun to post links! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PVXvHkr-Vs&t=765s
I've seen that video, and I'd love to go larger diameter, I've not seen one that's under 95db with headers. I'm running cats, and a GMPP catback (Borla) and I'm between 89-93 DB.
The other logistic nightmare is shipping. If I could I'd run a stainless works setup and be done with it, but that involves getting it to pass inspection, and it doesn't do anything for the cameras that trip above 95db and automatically issue a noise violation fine.
Stainless works does offer a new variation of their V1 3" system however looking at their site. I'll give em a call this trip stateside and see what they rate it at noise wise. It's the resonated and muffled variant. I'm sure they have a cali compliant one which I maybe able to fudge past the inspector.
When I looked into it previously, I'd also have to run an additional set of resonators (more shipping, plus fab time and labor).
Then I'd have to figure out what to do with my existing catback, nobody would pay for shipping back to the US, and nobody here would buy it.
If you know of a system that's below 95db I'd be open to researching it.
Yeah, I see your issue. That remote jurisdiction is really limiting. It would have to be custom at some level. The BB with 2 ADDITIONAL resonators (cats, 2 muffs, 4 resonators) would be the way I would go with your requirements. There is room. Can BB substitute mufflers?
I haven't measured it but my 3" quiet muffler option SW setup is far quieter at all rpms than my Corsa 2.5" setup.
I've had some guys measure the Corsa setup and it comes to around 95-105db depends on headers/cats/etc, it was the first catback I started researching.
I'll be giving stainless works a call and inquiring about their quiet setup when I'm stateside.
Would you mind taking a DB reading at idle? I use one of the free ones when I take my measurements. It's not super precise, but it would give me an idea about what to expect cammed, long tubes etc. I'd be running cats which should help somewhat also.
Got some new tires put on and attempted to put on my new Depo headlights........holy **** don’t buy depo lights. Fit is horrible. Back hunting. Guess I might just have to take my OEM ones apart and try to renew them, because depo was about the only ones I could find and no way in hell they are staying on the car.
Last edited by BaMaDuDe87; 01-16-2021 at 01:41 PM.
Got some new tires put on and attempted to put on my new Depo headlights........holy **** don’t buy depo lights. Fit is horrible. Back hunting. Guess I might just have to take my OEM ones apart and try to renew them, because depo was about the only ones I could find and no way in hell they are staying on the car.
Back when I had that steering rack seal failure, I had a small engine fire on the driver’s side since the PS fluid reached the headers when the dust boot popped. The spark plug wires were a tad burnt, but I never got around to doing the tune up (wires and plugs) mainly bc I didn’t drive the car much after the repair.
I changed the plugs (TR6IX - since she’s boosted) and wires (ACCEL extreme 9000 ceramic 9004C), and now she purrs again. Compared to other wire sets, even with heat shielding, the ACCEL set feel solid and provide that needed heat shielding from the headers; albeit, I did add a heat sleeve to the entire wire length for those pesky engine fires, lol.
If you don’t have a halon fire extinguisher handy for your car, I’d recommend getting one. It sure did save the engine bay and a lot of repair work, with no damage or residue to the wiring/engine bay.
I have a set for my Caddy and Tahoe. Each set consists of a halon (amerex), a halotron (H3R) and a max out (H3R). The max out units are a last resort, since they’re effective; however, they leave a residue for you to clean up and can potentially leave damage.
Got some new tires put on and attempted to put on my new Depo headlights........holy **** don’t buy depo lights. Fit is horrible. Back hunting. Guess I might just have to take my OEM ones apart and try to renew them, because depo was about the only ones I could find and no way in hell they are staying on the car.
I'm running the depo from rock auto and they are the bee's knees. Hid, plug and play same as oem fitment.
12-26-2020, 09:05 PM
