kra86

I am due for a ticket. Hit ten years last year.

I got the Katech Billet Belt tensioner now in my possession.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Ugh, get rid of it or return it. It doesn't have enough range to adequately tension the belt. I went through four different length belts before I found something remotely close and had to use tools to get extra leverage to be able to install or remove the belt. If the belt was long install to install by hand it would get shredded due to insufficient tension and close proximity to the water pump housing.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I used the ICT Billet tensioner with good results.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

That kinda crap just drives me nuts...you've probably got 3 or 400 bucks tied up in that...did they give you a refund or tell you what application it was actually designed for?

kra86

THanks for the advice. I like the beefy MTI design as well as the long-sweep both features have. I wish I could have read about that earlier in some build threads that are current and updated. Hard to find that stuff. I know the cars are at most ~14 years old, but damn. I looked through some post history to see where folks at at but I cannot find updated build info.

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Did a radiator upper and lower hoses both belts and 160 thermostat coolant bypass
Waiting for my kooks headers and catless mid pipes from Tick Performance best price by far and no 5 month wait time and a Mike Norris catch can from Scoggin Dicky

Mike ctsV

Also just did my upper and lower rad hose since my upper busted and left me stranded, i dont see how people do the lower hose without pulling the radiator.
And also my new upper hose was thicker than the old oem one so the oem clamps wouldnt fit, plus the upper hose wasnt marked on what dirrection to go on, so i put the longer end towards the water pump.

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

I did Delco hoses with no problems

Bishop73

I took it in for the second attempt at alignment. The second shop couldn't get anything on the rear to break loose either. I've concluded that i just need to replace the tie rods and looking under there, all bushings as well. Problem I have now is that I can't find any info on rear tie rods for the car. Am I missing something here?

What parts would you all recommend for a suspension refresh? I'd love to replace it all with performance or lowering bits, but can't spend a ton of cash on it. Appreciate any input.

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Call Creative Steel and buy everything they make for the V1 haha you will not be disappointed

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

For the rear they're called "toe links" or "link rods", so if you were searching for "tie rods" that might explain the lack of results. With that said, doesn't look like RockAuto.com has anything listed (regardless of what name I use), which kind of surprises me. Part #25 here (25737367) - https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...rimLevel=25926. About $100 each if you look on Amazon or Ebay. You can get beefier aftermarket alternatives for a bit more than that.

What mileage is on it, and what do you think needs to be refreshed?

Bishop73

Thanks for the info. Yeah, I searched for toe rods as well and saw some BMR pcs but wasn't sure it was the same part. I'll check that link. The car has 105k on it, I just thought if I was going to replace anything, might as well do all of it.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

The OEM toe rods are really skinny. They allow a fair amount of flex. I replaced mine with Creative Steel toe rods and liked the firmer feel. They're not much more $$ than OEM if you buy during a sale. They're very nice pieces.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I've done the Hotchkiss sways, CS toe rods, CS trailing arm bushings, CS engine mounts, diff bushing and block, CS shifter, and cradle bushings. The only thing left, for me, is some fatter swaybar end links and refreshing shocks at some point. It drives like it should, IMO, nice and flat without obnoxious noise. It's not factory soft but I like the added control. Wouldn't want any more poly than I have though, as the wife and kids already complain of a bit of a jouncy ride. It's clear why the V2s went with the MR shocks.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I had the corvette end links, but the opposed studs were a PITA to get on/off and I eventually snapped one trying to reinstall it. I ended up getting some Whiteline end links from Summit bc of their super fast shipping. Not cheap, but they're nice pieces.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WHL-KLC110

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Those look nice, like Moogs made adjustable. I've considered the Moogs and also these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/03-07-Cadil...JX88x2&vxp=mtr

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Wow, those ebay links are even more expensive than the Whitelines. They also look like they lack provisions to hold the stud secure while you tighten the bolt. The Whitelines have a 14mm hex on the stud that allows you to hold it while you tighten so it's not spinning in the socket.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

They are pricey and both look pretty solid to me. My issue with the Whitelines is that they are for Vettes aren't they? If so, they're good for lowered cars but I am factory height and intend to stay that way. Am I missing something?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I recommend RacingBeat 14203 end links. Ask for the P/N 95577 short threaded rod option. If you do, you'll get both the longer and shorter rods, which allows you to run them properly on the front or the back regardless of whether you're lowered a little or a lot.

I still have my original set from 2014 and they have been 100% maintenance free. The only thing I did was put 316 stainless jam nuts and washers on before winter 2017--the originals were starting to look like ****.


New vs. old RacingBeat 14203 end links daily driven since June 2014 (4 winters and counting). The threads are rusty, but the nuts were no trouble to get off. The boots are still in great condition and the ball joints move very smoothly. No signs of degradation. I did finally replace the original nuts and washers with the nicer 316SS nuts you see on the new set in November 2017.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

The Whitelines are adjustable and for lowered Vs like mine are at their shortest length. I think there is ~20mm of adjustment. 10mm on each end. I'm not sure if that's enough adjustment for stock height though. The stock links are extra long.