What did you do to your V today?
#2021
I am due for a ticket. Hit ten years last year.
I got the Katech Billet Belt tensioner now in my possession.
I got the Katech Billet Belt tensioner now in my possession.
#2022
I am due for a ticket. Hit ten years last year.
I got the Katech Billet Belt tensioner now in my possession.
I got the Katech Billet Belt tensioner now in my possession.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 02-22-2018 at 08:30 PM.
#2024
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
Ugh, get rid of it or return it. It doesn't have enough range to adequately tension the belt. I went through four different length belts before I found something remotely close and had to use tools to get extra leverage to be able to install or remove the belt. If the belt was long install to install by hand it would get shredded due to insufficient tension and close proximity to the water pump housing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZdNAQx_Bs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZdNAQx_Bs
#2025
THanks for the advice. I like the beefy MTI design as well as the long-sweep both features have. I wish I could have read about that earlier in some build threads that are current and updated. Hard to find that stuff. I know the cars are at most ~14 years old, but damn. I looked through some post history to see where folks at at but I cannot find updated build info.
#2027
TECH Apprentice
And also my new upper hose was thicker than the old oem one so the oem clamps wouldnt fit, plus the upper hose wasnt marked on what dirrection to go on, so i put the longer end towards the water pump.
#2028
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
Also just did my upper and lower rad hose since my upper busted and left me stranded, i dont see how people do the lower hose without pulling the radiator.
And also my new upper hose was thicker than the old oem one so the oem clamps wouldnt fit, plus the upper hose wasnt marked on what dirrection to go on, so i put the longer end towards the water pump.
And also my new upper hose was thicker than the old oem one so the oem clamps wouldnt fit, plus the upper hose wasnt marked on what dirrection to go on, so i put the longer end towards the water pump.
#2029
I took it in for the second attempt at alignment. The second shop couldn't get anything on the rear to break loose either. I've concluded that i just need to replace the tie rods and looking under there, all bushings as well. Problem I have now is that I can't find any info on rear tie rods for the car. Am I missing something here?
What parts would you all recommend for a suspension refresh? I'd love to replace it all with performance or lowering bits, but can't spend a ton of cash on it. Appreciate any input.
What parts would you all recommend for a suspension refresh? I'd love to replace it all with performance or lowering bits, but can't spend a ton of cash on it. Appreciate any input.
#2030
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
I took it in for the second attempt at alignment. The second shop couldn't get anything on the rear to break loose either. I've concluded that i just need to replace the tie rods and looking under there, all bushings as well. Problem I have now is that I can't find any info on rear tie rods for the car. Am I missing something here?
What parts would you all recommend for a suspension refresh? I'd love to replace it all with performance or lowering bits, but can't spend a ton of cash on it. Appreciate any input.
What parts would you all recommend for a suspension refresh? I'd love to replace it all with performance or lowering bits, but can't spend a ton of cash on it. Appreciate any input.
#2031
TECH Addict
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Where the Navy tells me to go
Posts: 2,408
Received 107 Likes
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I took it in for the second attempt at alignment. The second shop couldn't get anything on the rear to break loose either. I've concluded that i just need to replace the tie rods and looking under there, all bushings as well. Problem I have now is that I can't find any info on rear tie rods for the car. Am I missing something here?
What mileage is on it, and what do you think needs to be refreshed?
#2032
Thanks for the info. Yeah, I searched for toe rods as well and saw some BMR pcs but wasn't sure it was the same part. I'll check that link. The car has 105k on it, I just thought if I was going to replace anything, might as well do all of it.
Last edited by Bishop73; 02-26-2018 at 06:18 PM. Reason: spelling
#2034
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
I've done the Hotchkiss sways, CS toe rods, CS trailing arm bushings, CS engine mounts, diff bushing and block, CS shifter, and cradle bushings. The only thing left, for me, is some fatter swaybar end links and refreshing shocks at some point. It drives like it should, IMO, nice and flat without obnoxious noise. It's not factory soft but I like the added control. Wouldn't want any more poly than I have though, as the wife and kids already complain of a bit of a jouncy ride. It's clear why the V2s went with the MR shocks.
#2035
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WHL-KLC110
#2036
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
Those look nice, like Moogs made adjustable. I've considered the Moogs and also these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/03-07-Cadil...JX88x2&vxp=mtr
#2037
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Wow, those ebay links are even more expensive than the Whitelines. They also look like they lack provisions to hold the stud secure while you tighten the bolt. The Whitelines have a 14mm hex on the stud that allows you to hold it while you tighten so it's not spinning in the socket.
#2039
I recommend RacingBeat 14203 end links. Ask for the P/N 95577 short threaded rod option. If you do, you'll get both the longer and shorter rods, which allows you to run them properly on the front or the back regardless of whether you're lowered a little or a lot.
I still have my original set from 2014 and they have been 100% maintenance free. The only thing I did was put 316 stainless jam nuts and washers on before winter 2017--the originals were starting to look like ****.
New vs. old RacingBeat 14203 end links daily driven since June 2014 (4 winters and counting). The threads are rusty, but the nuts were no trouble to get off. The boots are still in great condition and the ball joints move very smoothly. No signs of degradation. I did finally replace the original nuts and washers with the nicer 316SS nuts you see on the new set in November 2017.
I still have my original set from 2014 and they have been 100% maintenance free. The only thing I did was put 316 stainless jam nuts and washers on before winter 2017--the originals were starting to look like ****.
New vs. old RacingBeat 14203 end links daily driven since June 2014 (4 winters and counting). The threads are rusty, but the nuts were no trouble to get off. The boots are still in great condition and the ball joints move very smoothly. No signs of degradation. I did finally replace the original nuts and washers with the nicer 316SS nuts you see on the new set in November 2017.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 03-01-2018 at 06:14 PM.