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Have flex fuel sensor in, DW300 fuel pump modded and installed, now fighting with aligning the rear cradle. The darn thing is fighting me to get alignment on more than two of the four bolts at a time.
Have flex fuel sensor in, DW300 fuel pump modded and installed, now fighting with aligning the rear cradle. The darn thing is fighting me to get alignment on more than two of the four bolts at a time.
Try using a come-along after you loosely tighten two bolts, it might give you those extra few millimeters you need to get the bolts in.
That's what my mechanic used when aligning my car, when he discovered he couldn't find the GM specialty alignment tool in his shop, so he grabbed the come-along and used it where the GM tool would go on the sub-frame to make things work.
Hmm may have to borrow one. Struggling on my back using a jack on either side to get good alignment. When I get a bolt started it doesn’t feel Like it is grabbing the threads squarely.
Picked up the wheels from the sand blasting place. All ready for final degreasing and offgas before powder work. Hopefully by next Monday I'll have them all done.
You can follow progress on my YouTube channel, ETA Wheels if you want a diy video to see how the process works, from buying used, to NDI to strip and repair damage and final color work.
Really pretty wheels - like charcoal vs a bright silver.
Now have V all ready except for the new driveshaft coupling. Ended up rebuilding the driveshaft and replacing the carrier bearing. Hoping that plus the fresh coupling, redshift trans bushing, and fresh trans mount tighten things up and get rid of the clunk.
In theory should have it dyno tuned on both 93 and e85 this week. Very curious to see how much more advance I can get on the e85. With my high dynamic compression I was only getting 20’.
- Got an alignment last Thursday in preparation for a track event (the first in over 2 years) the first weekend in November.
- Also had the shop do the pre-track day tech inspection. Shop owner (who I've known for years) said the rear upper control arm bushings are shot, and that there's perceptible play at the wheel because of the slop in the bushings. CS bushings shipped today. The shot control arms were the "special" GMPP control arms that were installed years ago, and I still have my original arms, so I'll put the CS bushings in those and then swap out the arms.
- Today I pulled the front bumper off in preparation for fixing my passenger side headlight, which has had a dead low beam and water inside it for months. Verified that my two old, broken headlights (saved from an accident years ago) still have good ballasts and bulbs, so I can scavenge from those to fix the dead low beam once I get the water out.
- Got an alignment last Thursday in preparation for a track event (the first in over 2 years) the first weekend in November.
- Also had the shop do the pre-track day tech inspection. Shop owner (who I've known for years) said the rear upper control arm bushings are shot, and that there's perceptible play at the wheel because of the slop in the bushings. CS bushings shipped today. The shot control arms were the "special" GMPP control arms that were installed years ago, and I still have my original arms, so I'll put the CS bushings in those and then swap out the arms.
I bet they looked like this I get to listen to a nice clunk every time I touch the brakes. I have the CS bushings on hand as well, just waiting to take the car down for the season to tear into it and do a few other things while I'm in there.
Have my Dyno tune setup for Saturday now that I have her all back together. The new carrier bearing and revshift trans bushing made an enormous difference. Almost no drivetrain noise at all. The clunks are all gone. Gonna tune first on 93 to see what the 102tbody and 3" exhaust get me. Then over to the E85 to see what Corn goodness gets me...
All I can say at this point is it's one hell of an improvement. It's not a max power thing, the TB is designed around drivability. And she is butter smooth after warm up and about 15 miles.
Did some preliminary data logging and the numbers reflect the seat of the pants feel. Afr is basically spot on for my tune/setup.
Super happy with it. I'll update later this week after its had a few drive cycles.
I'll be doing a video on my channel about it also. It's more than just a ported TB, they also (and I don't know how they did it) upped the ramp rate so it's more responsive. They are to my knowledge the only company offering a stock LS2 TB replacement at the moment. I have been looking since March or so.
They also have a send in service and a stock replacement with upgraded contactless sensors and ramp rate.
It's a perfect daily driver TB so far, and honestly it's smooth as silk now after about 30 min of idle, warm up and test drive. I will update my impressions after everything gets settled and the relearn process is complete.
Got V tuned this weekend on an atmospheric Mustang Dyno. Would like to have seen better numbers but in general happy with 444whp and 420/tq. Converting to a dyno jet this should be more like 490/whp 465/wtq.
The car really confused us as it didn't at all respond to E85, increased timing, richer, leaner, etc. It literally dyno'd identical to 93octane. We tuned it on MAF as well as on Speed Density and neither changed a thing so we left it on MAF for better manners.
The annoying part is I only gained 20hp and 40tq by going to 102tbody, 3" exhaust up from 2.5'', DW 300 pump, and Flex sensor. I will say that the power everywhere is much better and smoother now. The bottom end is much stronger and it will now spin the tires at 80mph which it never did before.
- Put the front end back together today (finally). Thought I would have done that over the weekend, but Amazon fucked me (twice), sending me H11 bulbs instead of 9005 (twice). I ended up going to Autozone to buy the correct bulbs so I could get the job finished.
- Changed the oil in preparation for the track event.
- Installed brake cooling ducts (one less thing to mess with Friday night when I get to VIR).
- Reinstalled the front bumper. Discovered the passenger fog/DRL/turn signal wouldn't work - of course, I tested that after I had put everything back together and the car was off the jack stands.
- Jacked the passenger front up so I could take the wheel back off and take the fender line back out to get to the fog/DRL harness connector. Maybe I didn't quite click it together all the way? Nope, it was clicked together just fine, so I disconnected it and saw a bit of corrosion. Pulled out my De-oxit contact cleaner and cleaned things up a bit, clicked it back together. Still no lights. I've been through this once before on the driver side, had to get a new pigtail from Luke @ Lindsay. So, for now I chopped the damn connectors out and used some butt splices and heat shrink to make a permanent connection. Lights work!
Originally Posted by AAIIIC
- Also had the shop do the pre-track day tech inspection. Shop owner (who I've known for years) said the rear upper control arm bushings are shot, and that there's perceptible play at the wheel because of the slop in the bushings. CS bushings shipped today. The shot control arms were the "special" GMPP control arms that were installed years ago, and I still have my original arms, so I'll put the CS bushings in those and then swap out the arms.
Heading to azn2damax's place this evening to install the CS bushings and put the upper control arms on the car. Already scheduled a re-check of the alignment for tomorrow.
Originally Posted by AAIIIC
- Today I pulled the front bumper off in preparation for fixing my passenger side headlight, which has had a dead low beam and water inside it for months. Verified that my two old, broken headlights (saved from an accident years ago) still have good ballasts and bulbs, so I can scavenge from those to fix the dead low beam once I get the water out.
Ran water all over the passenger headlight in my kitchen sink and couldn't find a leak anywhere. Ballast was toast, had definitely been full of water, so I swapped one of the good ones from one of the broken headlights and reinstalled the headlight. I put conventional 9005 bulbs back in for the high beams, replacing the LED bulbs that I had installed a few years ago. The LED bulbs have a controller, which had to be mounted outside the headlight housing, so I had to put a hole in the bulb access cap on the back of the headlight housing. I'm assuming that hole is what was allowing moisture. What I don't understand is why only the passenger headlight got moisture in it. So I'm not real hopeful that I found the fix, but time will tell.
Got V tuned this weekend on an atmospheric Mustang Dyno. Would like to have seen better numbers but in general happy with 444whp and 420/tq. Converting to a dyno jet this should be more like 490/whp 465/wtq.
The car really confused us as it didn't at all respond to E85, increased timing, richer, leaner, etc. It literally dyno'd identical to 93octane. We tuned it on MAF as well as on Speed Density and neither changed a thing so we left it on MAF for better manners.
The annoying part is I only gained 20hp and 40tq by going to 102tbody, 3" exhaust up from 2.5'', DW 300 pump, and Flex sensor. I will say that the power everywhere is much better and smoother now. The bottom end is much stronger and it will now spin the tires at 80mph which it never did before.
TB and exhaust got you more area under the curve and 40 more ft lbs...badass. You should be ecstatic. You would get more with more head flow or more revs but you got a nice boost in HP and badass in TQ with no downside (except cost). Total win!
TB and exhaust got you more area under the curve and 40 more ft lbs...badass. You should be ecstatic. You would get more with more head flow or more revs but you got a nice boost in HP and badass in TQ with no downside (except cost). Total win!
Yep super happy. Now for wheels and suspension upgrades as it needs moar low.. Have a GC coilover kit and the MM spacers sitting here for her. Playing around with some wheel options to stay 18" and get to 9.5" square. Would like to go 275/35/18 square.
10-19-2020, 09:46 AM
I get to listen to a nice clunk every time I touch the brakes. I have the CS bushings on hand as well, just waiting to take the car down for the season to tear into it and do a few other things while I'm in there.
I ended up going to Autozone to buy the correct bulbs so I could get the job finished.
I've been through this once before on the driver side, had to get a new pigtail from Luke @ Lindsay. So, for now I chopped the damn connectors out and used some butt splices and heat shrink to make a permanent connection. Lights work!
So I'm not real hopeful that I found the fix, but time will tell. 