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Thanks Folks. $14,000 in damage. The self leveling headlights are $1220 each from GM.
Idiot mechanic hit another car at a crosswalk that had old stop letters on pavement. No stop sign. Looks fishy from every angle.
Having smashed my front end not once, not twice, but three times in the past 8 or 9 years, I don't see how that could be $14k worth of damage. I would think it's about 1/2 that. But as long as their insurance is paying for it and nothing's coming out of your pocket, I suppose the cost doesn't matter. Have they given you an estimate of the timeline for the repair yet? Getting some of the V-specific parts (like the front bumper cover) is getting tough these days, so make sure they don't screw up any of that stuff!
Shifted the car to winter mode, reinstalling the stock wheels with Nokian WR-G4 all-weather tires. In doing so I discovered I drove through something sticky - splattered up in the wheel wells, and some stuff on the sides of the car. There has been some re-paving just outside my neighborhood recently, so I'm guessing it's from that. I didn't think I had driven over anything that was that freshly paved, but it's the only thing I can think of that would explain it.
Confirmed a rear maim seal leak. The engine and blower were just rebuilt. Has less than 5k on them.
I think I'm done. $100 of parts but more effort than I want to put into it at this point.
I'll post some pics next week.
Will be priced to sell if I decide to let her go.
- After replacing the #8 coil 6 weeks or so ago I'm still getting a P0358 code, and can sometimes feel the car misfiring. I pulled out the FSM last night to see what it says about that DTC; looks like I need to pull out the ol' multimeter to do some checking.
6 months later I finally followed up on this. I pulled the passenger side (even cylinders) coil bracket & wiring harness off to take a look at things like 2 or 3 weekends ago. I then found my multimeter was dead, and didn't revive with fresh batteries, so I had to buy a new one. Eventually I got around to actually looking at the bracket & harness I had taken off, but didn't find anything of note. So yesterday I removed the driver side coil bracket & harness, then switched sides and reinstalled everything. I kept the coil packs in the same positions, so I was only swapping the coil wiring harnesses.
It felt fine driving to work this morning, but the issue wasn't happening every time I drove it before, so I'll give it more time to see if either P0358 comes back (indicating it's either the ECU, or the wiring from the ECU to the coil pack harness connector), or if it shifts to P0351 (indicating it's the coil pack wiring harness, since the #8 wiring and connector is on #1 now).
Sold mine broken for almost what i paid for it....After putting close to a quarter million miles on this platform in 3 different vehicles over 10 years, gotta say my V1s have been a great highway and daily driving cars but if rebuilding my transmission, painting it, refinishing the wheels, fixing a host of smaller things and maybe doing a V2 cradle swap are the only way i see myself staying in mine, it's time to move on. I tired finding a lower miles, fairly stock replacement for the one I just sold but everything for sale around here has been pretty beat down and I'm over working on these cars...I just want to drive. Since I couldn't find one in better condition than the one I had, it's time to find something else to drive...too many options these days. Enjoyed it, Good Luck!
Swapped out a fuel rail adapter today after having this happen on the way home from work last week:
Engine died as I was driving, and as I coasted to the shoulder (while trying to restart it) I could smell fuel strong. I found this once I was on the shoulder. I have no idea how it did not burst into flames, I got lucky as hell!
I replaced the existing fuel rail adapter with a new one from ICT Billet - https://www.ictbillet.com/threaded-f...be-ls-ls1.html - that does away with the plastic clip and uses a nut that screws on to hold the adapter in place.
- Noticed one of the exhaust tips was a bit out of alignment, found a busted rubber exhaust hanger. I happened to have a few spares in the garage, so I replaced that.
- Replaced the brake light bulbs after my brother let me know the driver side was out (as was the center brake light). I bought some conventional 3157/4157 bulbs, and also bought these LED ones -
- and did a side-by-side comparison. I ended up going with the LED ones - I don't know that they're appreciably brighter, but the way they project the light really fills the taillight/brake light. I don't know if that makes any sense, but I prefer the way they look. We'll see how long they last.
- Tried to replace the center brake light with a new Dorman LED one (part #923-329), but I think maybe someone had tried to install it and then returned it to Rock Auto. I'm going to return it and get another, so for now the dead 3rd brake light is still on the car.
- Bled the clutch for the first time in I-don't-know-how-long. Based on how dark the fluid was, I'd say it's been a loooong time.
Stored the V in the nearest cement block garage near me in advance of the damn tropical storm headed to Western FL. I had just bought AC Delco touch up paint that I was planning on using but that'll have to wait for now
Thats my hail plan is put it into a parking garage.
I read somewhere that most hurricane damaged cars would be fine if they were just 18 inches higher than ground level.
11-07-2022, 05:58 AM
in the past 8 or 9 years, I don't see how that could be $14k worth of damage. I would think it's about 1/2 that. But as long as their insurance is paying for it and nothing's coming out of your pocket, I suppose the cost doesn't matter. Have they given you an estimate of the timeline for the repair yet? Getting some of the V-specific parts (like the front bumper cover) is getting tough these days, so make sure they don't screw up any of that stuff! 
