LS7 Lifters going in Hard, had to tap them in
11-04-2017, 12:35 PM
#21
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The new OEM GM/Delphi LS7 lifters were delivered to my house from the WS6 store in less than 24 hrs! Heading down to the shop to see how they fit. Thanks for the quick turn on the order. On with the build.
11-05-2017, 07:23 AM
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They new ones went in fine. Was able to move them up or down with my fingers and turned in place. Secured with lifter trays and good to go. I will say that the other set came out without any problems after being in there a few days. Perhaps part of it was a slight temperature variance between the block and lifters on the day of install. However, they (other set) did not turn freely in place and after inspection upon removal were not identical to the original GM ones that came out. The ones I just put in were an exact match. Plan to chase all the head bolt threads today with the ARP chase tool and blow em out. Time to bolt on some LS1 heads.
11-06-2017, 07:02 PM
#27
Little bit of misinformation here. Figured I’d drop in and clear a few up.
Lifters must move in the bore freely. No exceptions. Ideally in the LS world, you want to shoot for .0015-.0018 lifter to bore clearance. Materials, oil viscosity, and operating temps play a factor here (ie marine engines). The area I’ve found to be the most problematic, is directly below the oil galley hole. It tends to be a few tenths smaller than the top of the bore in some, not all, untouched factory blocks. Good on the OP for stopping and asking questions! Probably saved him a ton of headache in a few quick miles.
Next up. Hy-Lift and Johnson Lifters are two completely different companies. BTR did once sell a “SLR” lifter, that was produced by Hy-Lift. They are not to be confused with the current 2110 lifters. SLR is sort of a misnomer, but it works. Realistically it means we’re controlling the leak down to a finer range. That said, the numbers have changed slightly since the archaic gen1 SBC prints.
Quick question though. If you had issues with lifters not fitting a bunch of times, why wasn’t the company contacted!? Anybody that has ever dealt with us or especially me, knows that things get taken care of promptly and we stand behind our products.
ETA: Forgot to include a little more in the 1st piece. People often overlook the importance of measuring lifters (especially the ones coming out) and their bores. While grinding can be held to a few tenths...it’s often the seller reboxes, sells singles etc. From one batch/lot to another it can vary. Which also means the OEM could have assembled your particular engine with .0005-.001 undersized lifters, it happens. At one point I had to grind .001” under for a certain customer. Factory blocks are all over the place. Personally, I won’t build an engine unless the lifter bores are honed. I’m somewhat spoiled in the fact I can walk out back, and turn the grinder on though lol. Point being here, people really need to measure! Measuring the bores can be expensive, but good 1” mics can be had on eBay for decent prices.
Lifters must move in the bore freely. No exceptions. Ideally in the LS world, you want to shoot for .0015-.0018 lifter to bore clearance. Materials, oil viscosity, and operating temps play a factor here (ie marine engines). The area I’ve found to be the most problematic, is directly below the oil galley hole. It tends to be a few tenths smaller than the top of the bore in some, not all, untouched factory blocks. Good on the OP for stopping and asking questions! Probably saved him a ton of headache in a few quick miles.
Next up. Hy-Lift and Johnson Lifters are two completely different companies. BTR did once sell a “SLR” lifter, that was produced by Hy-Lift. They are not to be confused with the current 2110 lifters. SLR is sort of a misnomer, but it works. Realistically it means we’re controlling the leak down to a finer range. That said, the numbers have changed slightly since the archaic gen1 SBC prints.
Quick question though. If you had issues with lifters not fitting a bunch of times, why wasn’t the company contacted!? Anybody that has ever dealt with us or especially me, knows that things get taken care of promptly and we stand behind our products.
ETA: Forgot to include a little more in the 1st piece. People often overlook the importance of measuring lifters (especially the ones coming out) and their bores. While grinding can be held to a few tenths...it’s often the seller reboxes, sells singles etc. From one batch/lot to another it can vary. Which also means the OEM could have assembled your particular engine with .0005-.001 undersized lifters, it happens. At one point I had to grind .001” under for a certain customer. Factory blocks are all over the place. Personally, I won’t build an engine unless the lifter bores are honed. I’m somewhat spoiled in the fact I can walk out back, and turn the grinder on though lol. Point being here, people really need to measure! Measuring the bores can be expensive, but good 1” mics can be had on eBay for decent prices.
Last edited by Havoc40; 11-06-2017 at 09:26 PM.
11-06-2017, 07:37 PM
#29
Across the state at Hy-Lift? Couldn’t tell ya. But they don’t own the registered trademark “Johnson Lifters” either.
Last edited by Havoc40; 11-06-2017 at 07:45 PM.
11-07-2017, 08:14 AM
#31
They new ones went in fine. Was able to move them up or down with my fingers and turned in place. Secured with lifter trays and good to go. I will say that the other set came out without any problems after being in there a few days. Perhaps part of it was a slight temperature variance between the block and lifters on the day of install. However, they (other set) did not turn freely in place and after inspection upon removal were not identical to the original GM ones that came out. The ones I just put in were an exact match. Plan to chase all the head bolt threads today with the ARP chase tool and blow em out. Time to bolt on some LS1 heads.