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Looking good. I prefer the outline logo vs the solid. I've burned up quite a few sets of tires now. MT ET street 275/40/17 last a half season on the street like new, then die off the rest of the season slowly losing grip. I dont track mileage but 5K or so sounds about right. My favorites were Kumho ecsta XS ( no longer made, of course ) they hooked 90% as well as the ET streets when warm and cornered like a boss too. Im currently running RE-17R which is 'ok' but I'd rank them a solid step DOWN from the Kumhos. Overhyped tire imo.
I recently installed Nitto 555R on the rear and they hook great but they are too new to give a proper review on.
Thanks! I was looking into the MT streets but I'm just not going to do it at the moment. I'll run these summimoto HTRZ IIs all around still. I dont put that much mileage on the car (maybe 300-1000miles a summer/spring per year) so My tires will probably dry rot before I wear them out. So a shorter life isn't that bad I guess.
I never ran the Kumho but I do hear the Falkens are nice. I ran the original Nitto 555s back in the day and They sucked, then I tried the Nitto Invo but only ran them for a short while so no feedback but can't say anything good or bad about them.
Yeah burn em out first for sure. I actually wanted to run the Toyo R888 but they were out of stock in the size I needed when I bought the Nittos. Theres also a Toyo TQ dr that looks promising, although I havent tried them nor has anyone I know personally. Price was good last I checked
Whatever those Kumho Ecsta XS were made out of? I sure hope they kept the exact recipe and build more, they were superb and lasted very well. Quiet running too, very quiet.
Ended up grinding down the STB alittle and then decided just to shave down the short reinforcement ribs at the back of the intake for it to clear. The STB is installed! While I was there I installed the new vacuum block line and replaced the intake brake booster plug with the nipple and got that all done as well.
I also got a set of Deka 60lb injectors for a good price on here and they were said to have 2k on them which is about what i have on my bosch 60lb. But when I got them I didn’t realize they were the tall versions. So they didn’t just swap out with my short LS1 height bosch. It was a good thing tho As that means I could remove the injector spacers (not a fan of the added leak point). But that just meant i needed to make a few quick brackets and I removed the studs minus the one for the throttle bracket. That also means I needed to swap the injector harness to the EV1 style vs the EV6 that I had. No problem as FItech was gracious enough to supply both. The Deka 60s are installed and everything is back together. I wanted to keep the bosch 60s with the stock PCM as it’s tuned for them and has all the injector data, where as I have nothing for these Deka 60s but the FItech pcm doesn’t care about it so I thought it was a smart move. This also means my original truck intake and the aluminum fuel rails with custom brackets that I made will stay and the bosch will swap right in for the other motor so less work in the long run.
Only got one set of spark plug seperators at autozone as that’s all they had. Placed and order online for 4 sets off eBay and should be here next week. I installed the top side on the driver side and installed the coil covers and it all still
fits! Waiting to finish the pass side till I have the seperators as I have to trim them a good bit.
Got my new clamps for the exhaust so I will swap the stretched ones out.
Finished up all the spark plug wires. They are finnally installed, new coils and covers are all done. I also swapped out the 2 exhaust clamps on the muffler where the cat would be for some new ones and got that all done. I also pulled the fittings on the wastegate and compressor cover and installed new 1/8”npt to 1/4” barb 90 degrees and ran larger 1/4”
silicone line. Originally I used a 90 degree and another 1/8”
nipple with 3/16” line but that adds an unnecessary extra 2 leak points plus i read the wastegate should use a larger 1/4” line minimum. I also finished up the BOV line routing and got that all plumbed up. Lastly I made the little bracket to hold
down the MAP sensor and put some high density foam
on the underside to keep pressure on it.
Looking good! Those air filters, are you sure they are up for the task? Theres been a few threads floating around with filters similar to that where the turbos ate the media and the compressor wheel got damaged. Theres another where a guy put screen mesh in front which screwed up the airflow bad enough to also damage the compressor wheel. Thought it worth the mention on such a fine build
Lol I want to! Ive been a little anxious about starting it up with the new EFI system. Still I haven't done any of the tuning besides setting up a tune on the laptop. But Ive heard I need to flash the tune to the PCM before I can start making changes. I wish the FItech stuff had better directions.
Looking good! Those air filters, are you sure they are up for the task? Theres been a few threads floating around with filters similar to that where the turbos ate the media and the compressor wheel got damaged. Theres another where a guy put screen mesh in front which screwed up the airflow bad enough to also damage the compressor wheel. Thought it worth the mention on such a fine build
Not sure actually. Ive had it off a few times and I can barely get it on due to the clearances. I dont think I would be able to run an elbow of any sort in that area honestly. So I might be stuck with a screen filter or something simular. I personally would rather a full quality filter as I drive this thing on the street only so I dont like not having the filtration. The filter is a foam style and it has the metal honey comb on the inside and outside and a set screw (thumb nut) on the outside. Its very sturdy as I'm not worried about anything falling into the compressor. The only thing would be if the foam degrades and falls into the compressor.
I would hope that its capable, it flows easily when sucking through the filter by mouth and its what CX racing supplies with the kit. But ya never know!
Got any ideas? The filter as is hits the back of the headlight body framing so thats the max room I have to work with. otherwise a low profile 90* or 110* elbow of some sort with a large cone filter may be my only option or a screen.
I run a 90 cobra elbow on the front of my s480 to clear my headlight. I was worried about restriction. With it off on the chassis dyno on a 770hp run I only gained 7 hp so I really don't think its a restriction at all. Honestly i saw almost the same variation run to run with no changes in anything. Lol. It is a 5 to 4 with a big cone filter at the bottom.
Not much to report here. Finished up removing all the OBD2 wiring and ran the FItech handheld wiring to the console. Been playing with the tube on the laptop and having issues on the handheld and getting the computer to load the drivers to link up with the handheld. Got that sorted out and now just dealing with a tune issue we’re the handheld screws up my dual cooling fan enable by disabling the 2nd fan and crap.
Also been working on a Cheap Engine test stand so i can fire the spare 5.3 to verify working order before a LS9 cam swap. Also need to test a 5.3 my dad got as that thing was horrendous inside with burnt caked up oil. We swapped a LQ9 cam, LS2 chain, and melling pump with an fbody oI’m pan. Been amassing parts for a week or so, just need the steel tubing at this point. Hoping to be around $150-175 in the whole setup.
So what Stand alone system are you using? I too am going boosted LQ9 on a Thirdgen. My thread is on this page too. I'm new to LS swaps, and interested in whats required for going to new stand alone. Must I keep my stock OBD1 computer to run anything?
So what Stand alone system are you using? I too am going boosted LQ9 on a Thirdgen. My thread is on this page too. I'm new to LS swaps, and interested in whats required for going to new stand alone. Must I keep my stock OBD1 computer to run anything?
I ran the stock truck PCM with HP tuners pro on a custom 2 BAR OS system and it worked great. I converted the stock PCM to standalone which wasn't that bad but i deleted the transmission harness section as i run a 2004R. But the stock system is difficult to tune and you really need to know what your doing as they do SO MUCH, with lots of modifier tables that if you make one change it affects 4 other things.
So now I'm trying out the new Fitech standalone System (without tranny controll). You literally just need the harness/pcm and you reuse all your stock sensors, hook up Battery, Ground, Switched 12v and your stock sensors plug right in and your done. Since its WB02 based it will self tune so you can continue to mod and it will relearn and make your life easier.
If you go with Fitech you dont need the stock PCM or harness basically. If your going to run a 4L60E or 4L80E etc then you need the tranny control version.
^ Ok thank you! So is the Fitech similar to the Holley HP? Seems thats the one of choice on here lately. ANd yes, will be going with a 4L60/80. Not sure which one. And Id hate to lose my Freddy Brown built 700R4. But I know it wont work with the LS motors. And prob wont last long with what ill be throwing at it. But I do luv that Deep 1st gear on them! What headers and exhaust you go with? Im looking at 1 7/8 or 2" primaries to a true dual. Not sure which one though.. And thank you again for your advice and help. Seems not alot of LS swapped 3rdgen's on here for some reason. IDK why? More room under the hood, better handling, better lOOking lol, and Lighter!
^ Ok thank you! So is the Fitech similar to the Holley HP? Seems thats the one of choice on here lately. ANd yes, will be going with a 4L60/80. Not sure which one. And Id hate to lose my Freddy Brown built 700R4. But I know it wont work with the LS motors. And prob wont last long with what ill be throwing at it. But I do luv that Deep 1st gear on them! What headers and exhaust you go with? Im looking at 1 7/8 or 2" primaries to a true dual. Not sure which one though.. And thank you again for your advice and help. Seems not alot of LS swapped 3rdgen's on here for some reason. IDK why? More room under the hood, better handling, better lOOking lol, and Lighter!
Sorta the same thing. HP is more user friendly, its proven but its 2-3x the cost. The Fitech is boost ready out of the box, Holley needs add ons.
TV cable operated tranny will need a TV adapter on the TB, custom made unless you keep the late stock 78mm TB and get the TV made EZ bracket. If you go with an aftermarket larger Billet TB you will need to make your own setup.
700r4 will work with a $30 converter pilot adapter, elongate the stock converter flexplate holes and your done. It will bolt right up with the stock stype 700r4 converter. All bellhousing bolts will line up minus one (DONT DRILL THE BLOCK OUT) just leave that hole in the bellhousing unused.
I suggest you read through my thread here. I'm turbo so I run the LS turbo CX racing kit. Run into a dynomax 3" ultra flow SS catback with CME tips. This same engine was supercharged and I ran 1 7/8" primaries into 3" LT Racing innovations SS ebay headers into a ypipe and out the same catback. If you going turbo you dont need a large exhaust, if your going supercharger the larger exhaust sizing helps. I ran true duals on this car as well... wasn't worth it honestly. The best way is to dump it before the rear axle, going over the rear is going to be custom and expensive. I've run it both ways. stock routing is best for me and the 3" catback should provide Lots of HP with my 3" down pipe.
LS swaps are cheap, they make more power stock and modified stock SBC, better driveability, power, strength, weight, can handle lots of power easily with boost. Honestly its a win win.
^ Ok thank you! So is the Fitech similar to the Holley HP? Seems thats the one of choice on here lately. ANd yes, will be going with a 4L60/80. Not sure which one. And Id hate to lose my Freddy Brown built 700R4. But I know it wont work with the LS motors. And prob wont last long with what ill be throwing at it. But I do luv that Deep 1st gear on them! What headers and exhaust you go with? Im looking at 1 7/8 or 2" primaries to a true dual. Not sure which one though.. And thank you again for your advice and help. Seems not alot of LS swapped 3rdgen's on here for some reason. IDK why? More room under the hood, better handling, better lOOking lol, and Lighter!
Most of the third gen swaps are on thirdgen.org. what year is yours? My 87 originally had a tpi so all my stock gauges worked after the swap. I used speed engineering swap headers and they are a steal for what they are. I went with a 4l60e with a hawks crossmember. As for engine mounts, I just used cheap summit setback plates to put the ls in stock location. Super easy swap,
11-02-2017, 07:46 AM
so less work in the long run. 
