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JK D30s are a helluva lot beefier than the earler models. And they make weld in kits to allow clear swaps to XJ/WJs. A sleeved and trussed D30, with a R/P numerically lower than 4.30, will survive some launches.
And a slick, LS powered WJ would be BEAST... Im considering an SRT-EATER too.
Last edited by deucesallin; 08-17-2016 at 10:20 AM.
Ive only driven it on my caliche road so far, but it is amazing how well it hooks up on hard packed caliche. Previously you goose the throttle and it spins, now you can really goose it and zero spin.
Love the stance of the gasser, keep it as is!!!!! And is wrong of me to think about unhooking the rear drive shaft and want to do FWD burn outs in front of the honda boyz? AWESOME WORK!!!
Love the stance of the gasser, keep it as is!!!!! And is wrong of me to think about unhooking the rear drive shaft and want to do FWD burn outs in front of the honda boyz? AWESOME WORK!!!
Thanks.
Thanks!! I love the FWD burn out idea!
Ive driven it on the road a little bit. I keep breaking intercooler coupling after blowing pipes off, I guess the chinese clamps have a short lifespan after taking on and off 10-15 times.
Here are a few shots, I need to raise the back and inch or two and might get the front an inch lower, but it drives good as it sits, lots of clearance.
I just put 4 piston brakes on the 7.5" rear. 12-bolt brakes, they fit great if you put the brackets on the inside of the axle flange to correct the offset of the 10-bolt.
I also got some Motive 27 spline axles. I cant imagine anything on a street car could ever break these, the weak link has to be the stock carrier now.
The setup works great as 3wd so far, Im interested to see how the Lock-right does when I put these axles in.
The lock-right works perfectly. It doesn't drive quite as terribly in the front as most people describe. The brakes need to be broken in, still rolling a little. Here it is spinning all four tires then a pipe blows off..having problems with my cold side setup.
Cool! I'm slowly putting together a similar setup, but in an actual Jeep (1969 CJ6). 403" stroked LS2, 700R4, 4472, Dana 30 front, Ford 8.8 rear. I should come in around 2700 lbs (no top, no doors, little interior, Jeeps are quite basic) How is the gearing for you with your setup? With the TH350 + 3.08s in the axles?
I have a 700R4 for my setup, and was thinking 4.10s, with 29-30" tires. I'll be more in the 550hp(crank) range
my case is out of a Bravada, which should be the same as the Typhoon (4472), the Astros and Syclones use the 1372, pretty much the same, but 27 spline output, vs 32. I was lucky enough to get the adapter too.
I've seen a ton of CJs running stock Dana 30s with big motors/paddle tire, they seem to hold up well with HP, big tires are more the enemy.
FYI the True Tracks don't handle abuse for ****, I broke two of them and wont ever own another... (In a 4 cylinder wrangler on the street fyi...) both in a Dana 44 with 4/56 gears and 33" tires.
If you check around there are non vacume disconnect axles in mid 90's wranglers and Cherokees.
I put a set of warn hubs and axles in my 1994 Jeep Wrangler front high pinion dana 30 200K ago. thousands of miles offroad and no issues so far (Knock on wood) Well see how that goes with 300 more HP in front of it..
Cool! I'm slowly putting together a similar setup, but in an actual Jeep (1969 CJ6). 403" stroked LS2, 700R4, 4472, Dana 30 front, Ford 8.8 rear. I should come in around 2700 lbs (no top, no doors, little interior, Jeeps are quite basic) How is the gearing for you with your setup? With the TH350 + 3.08s in the axles?
Sounds like a good setup! I like the 3.08s with the turbo engine, if it was NA I'd definitely want a little more gear.
Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead
FYI the True Tracks don't handle abuse for ****, I broke two of them and wont ever own another... (In a 4 cylinder wrangler on the street fyi...) both in a Dana 44 with 4/56 gears and 33" tires.
Thanks for the info, True Tracks are expensive so good to know!
Thanks! Here is a pick of the cage, the front is shortened up so it looks like a dune buggy. The other pic is when I put the body on, the engine is set back about 13"..its nice having lots of room up front, I can now put the intercooler behind the grill.
Toe settings and caster can cause wobble on those Jeep 30's. Most often in an actual Jeep, its due to any kind of slop in the track(panhard) bar. Worn ball joints are also a cuprit, and worn wheel bearings. LOL, damn near everything, really.
Did you ever go with drag radials on all 4 corners? I'm considering the same on the Jeep project I mentioed a year ago, its slowly on the back burner (worked on a 1971 Jimmy with an LQ4 swap this summer to fit the family), getting ready to get back to work on it.
Thanks for the info. I am going to align it and put a damper on it tomorrow and see how it works.
I bought a pair of MT pros for the rear and 4 15x9" Welds, so just need to figure out what to run on the front. I haven't decided if I want to run MT pros or something like Nittos since its only getting 1/3 the power and don't need anything super sticky, but might do another set of MT pros since it won't be a high mileage car anyway.
The alignment is done and I put a skyjacker damper on it, and it is totally fixed. Most likely it was the alignment but the damper makes the steering really stiff so it gives me a false sense of safety. Im still surprised how good the steering is under power with the lock-right locking the wheels together.
08-17-2016, 10:14 AM
I vote for WJ or XJ and JK D30s... 
