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Well I’ve decided I’m goin to mount the radiator under the trunk in the back of the car. I’ve fell in love with the way the engine bay looks without the radiator in there. Yes I’ll gain some weight, but the weight will be in a lot better place, and I would think the intercooler would be a lot more efficient without it there, both intercooler temps and air flow, and, well I’ve always wanted to try it. I’ve been lying under the car all night looking and testing, and I think it would be pretty easy to do. I’ve got room too build a little air damn, etc. now, my question is, will a Taurus fan be enough to keep it cool?
Taurus fan is used with great success on a lot builds, I chose lt1 fans because the shroud covered the radiator core so well, I think that is just as important (coverage).
On a serious note, has the car been named ?? Can we call it the "champagne super nova"?? Just super nova for short??
Absolutely love hot and cold sides, and the way they look I agree with putting the rad in the back.
Last edited by slocaddy; 11-13-2017 at 07:52 AM.
Reason: Because I'm a fu#%ing idiot.
Taurus fan is used with great success on a lot builds, I chose lt1 fans because the shroud covered the radiator core so well, I think that is just as important (coverage).
On a serious note, has the car been named ?? Can we call it the "champagne super nova"?? Just super nova for short??
Absolutely love hot and cold sides, and the way they look I agree with putting the rad in the back.
ive got a set of lt1 fans, maybe I’ll use those instead. I was going to build a shroud to cover the whole radiator then bolt the Taurus fan to it. I wonder which one moves more air?
the car has been dubbed “ The Junkyard Dog” loosely, was thinking of having JY DOG on the plates, but it’s not set in stone. And thank you for the compliments, I tried to make both hot and cold sides as straight forward and efficient as I could see fit.
Originally Posted by Gunters96lt1
How hard was it welding that torque arm mount? Ive have a 8.8 with fbody tubes sitting around but i dont think i have the skill to weld the mount on.
Its pretty easy man, I warm the housing up job to help out me welder a little bit, I took the rearends out yesterday and drive the car, did some pulls, it’s perfect. I don’t use the ten bolt tubes though, I just switch over the brackets. If you can lay a decent bead, you can do it
Its pretty easy man, I warm the housing up job to help out me welder a little bit, I took the rearends out yesterday and drive the car, did some pulls, it’s perfect. I don’t use the ten bolt tubes though, I just switch over the brackets. If you can lay a decent bead, you can do it
Not sure why everyone is so afraid to weld on the 8.8 housings. They weld beautifully also the hiltsy mount totally encapsulates the housing so there is really no way for it to fail and come off.
Not sure why everyone is so afraid to weld on the 8.8 housings. They weld beautifully also the hiltsy mount totally encapsulates the housing so there is really no way for it to fail and come off.
As for the 8.8's? I bent the casting on my very first 8.8.with a torque arm mount weld up. Over ten years, multiple mashed up gear sets and carriers. Not even a crack in a single weld
As for the 8.8's? I bent the casting on my very first 8.8.with a torque arm mount weld up. Over ten years, multiple mashed up gear sets and carriers. Not even a crack in a single weld
its t’s hard to beat an 8.8 for cost and availability, IMO. If you’re going to beat the snot out of it, some bracing is a good idea obviously. I’ve been impressed with them though.
Yeah the 8.8 is a pretty massive step from 7.5 ten bolt junk. Race only 800-1000hp is pretty much where your wanting to look at something bigger. For street 5-600 hp is the ceiling imo. Sorry for hijack
just welded it with normal wire and my 220v Miller mig. I’ve done 5 now, nonissues. These centers aren’t cast iron like the old stuff.
Awesome, thanks for the info!
Originally Posted by MY_2K_Z
Not sure why everyone is so afraid to weld on the 8.8 housings. They weld beautifully also the hiltsy mount totally encapsulates the housing so there is really no way for it to fail and come off.
I just thought I remembered reading about the housing material and needing a special rod to weld up the hiltsy mount. I have the mount and the housing ready just didn't think I had the tools to do the job.
Well got done much needed stuff ironed out! My turbo drain is done, and done oddly, but I feel it’s the most efficient I can get with what I have. The smallest part of my entire drain system is my 12an Line. The front cover is 1/2 npt, I found a brass closednipple at tractor supply that had a large ID, as seen in the photos. Then flared out the male end of a 3/4 copper sweep 90*, and solderedit to the nipple. The smallest part of that fitting is between 5/8 and 3/4 ID, I measured the inside of my 12an drain kit fittings, and they measured 31/64 at the smallest ID. So this should flow tons better.
I have some very crudely drawn pictures to help illustrate my ideAs. I’d like some input on any idea you may have to make things better.
First up, the easiest way to run my lines would be one on each side of the car. But, if I do that , the cold side would have to run right along side my aluminum 4” exhaust, and I feel like the line would absorb a significant amount of heat from that. So, I can run them both on the driver side. I am using 1 1/2 copper pipe, which should also help dissipate heat. The ends at each port on the water pump and radiator will be flexible stainless.
Next, fans. I’ve been reading for days on the 4x4 forums of people running bed mounted radiators with a Taurus fan and having zero issues. I have a Taurus fan, and I have had great luck with them as well. This radiator I bought cane with two little pos fans, I’d like to mount the Taurus fan right too the existing shroud, bet cut the marked edge of the Taurus shroud off and extend it over to totally cover the radiator. Good idea?
As pictured, I thought of maybe sealing the radiator to the bottom of the trunk, while leaving the front dropped from the floor about 6”, and leaning it open to act as a scoop to funnel air over the rad while driving. But, I am unsure how much airflow there actually is in that area, if that’s a waste of time or not. Thoughts?
The radiator will sit at an angle forward down, so the end by the bumper will be highest. Do I want the low pressure cold side, at the high end, or the pressure hot side at that end? Heat rises, aomto speak, but my mind tells me I want the high end to be incoming hot water, like the factory had it.
But I made decent progress tonight. Fuel lines all ran and hooked up, mines the twonby the firewall, changed my mind, want to use 45’s. Need to build a holder for the lines that run down the water pump, to keep them out of the pulleys. Also going to build a mount for the ones on the back of the drivers head.
Mounted my oil filter housing and lines hooked up for it, didn’t like the way the transitions were in the filter housing so I ported it, much better flow now, at least it looks to be.
And also started on my hydro boost, got my lines figured out and a few fittings here to test the thread on each of them , thought my gto rack was m15x1.50
And m18x1.50, but I guess not. Need to figure that part out. Closer and closer everyday.
Brake master cylinders. Need one that comes from a vehicle that the system sits flat, hydro is off a truck. Prefer aluminum, just much smaller than this giant sob.
Also, best place to get repop brake lines for my nova? Whole kit
Made a bunch of progress this weekend. Hydroboost is all mounted, going to run a dodge d100 master, lines all measured and havinthe hydro shop make me what I need tomorrow.
Trans cooler mounted and lines made and hooked up, radiator line routing figured out and ran, need to pick up some fittings for it now, sure a shame I’m going to have to run it up and over the axle. Going to put unions on the system so it can be disassembled easily.
11-12-2017, 10:26 PM
