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from what I’ve heard and read the optima quality has dropped significantly when the moved there manufacturing off the shores. If I wanted to pay more than led acid I would just go to lithium and be done. Venting the lead acid cost me $5 or like 3 feet of silicone hose.
Optima bolted down with the BMR tray is more secure than OEM standards. I also have the cut-off switch which they tested for the first time while holding my rpms at 2500 (pics before battery brace installed)
I'm ordering a taylor battery box which has to be bolted down to the frame with 3/8ths bolts.
NHRA Rule 8:1 In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
Never got to log the last pass at the track because the launch closed the laptop and sent it to the trunk lol.
It did pick up 3 mph with 1 full turn on the boost controller(from 103 mph to 106mph) with less aggressive shifting. I'm guessing boost went up 2-3 lbs? I say 2-3 lbs because on the way to the track the car was hazing the tires in 4th gear whereas before I could hook in 4th gear, for 60 mph hits to 100 mph. That's why I went to the track on slicks hoping to get better fuel and boost data.
Unfortunately, wait time for my first pass was almost 2 hrs due to oil downs. I grew impatient and decided to make a full pass with conservative shifting. No new data but it was faster everywhere.
Now I'm upgrading the fuel system(lines, extra pump on hobb switch and bigger injectors), doing p59 flex-fuel conversion, cage, 28 inch tires, billet 78/75 turbo and a forged bottom end.
Gotcha. Sounds like some healthy upgrades! I dont think the forged bottom end is neccessary... the Billet 78/75 will be able to make some crazy power but the stock internals have been known to live at 1000hp, I doubt your going to make that with a manual (without blowing it up). I would think you'll be that high up. Either way sounds like its going to be a whole different animal.
FWIW the cage/roll bar was prob the biggest thing I regret on my firebird. I understand for you its bc you race it but on the street its the worst. Loosing the back seats etc, door bars getting in over (swing out kits are still annoying). If you drive it on the street it will get old after a while.
Gotcha. Sounds like some healthy upgrades! I dont think the forged bottom end is neccessary... the Billet 78/75 will be able to make some crazy power but the stock internals have been known to live at 1000hp, I doubt your going to make that with a manual (without blowing it up). I would think you'll be that high up. Either way sounds like its going to be a whole different animal.
FWIW the cage/roll bar was prob the biggest thing I regret on my firebird. I understand for you its bc you race it but on the street its the worst. Loosing the back seats etc, door bars getting in over (swing out kits are still annoying). If you drive it on the street it will get old after a while.
i dont think the sbe LS1 will hold 800rwhp safely. If it was a gen 4 engine i wouldnt worry. I have the rotating assembly sitting in a engine that had a cam bearing failure so I figure why not.
The stock T56 has held close to 1000rwhp in a ctsv so I'm hoping my built t56 mn12 in a lighter car will hold. HP is not the problem, hooking with all that HP at the track hurts them
Gen 3 rods have been in some fast cars, they are a good bit lighter than Gen 4, they are weaker for sure but power doesn't kill rods... its more about the RPM. If your shifting above sky high its better to get the 4th gens. Even aftermarket rods will weigh more and thus put more stress on the crank.
At the HP it takes to break the stock internals I would be more worried about block strength. Less worried if its an iron block but since the stock blocks and stock rotating have been 1200hp+ (5.3) I wouldnt worry so much about the rotating assembly. I also feel like the 5.3s are better for boost bc of the lighter pistons, small bore and the blocks are prob a bit thicker bc of it.
12-10-2017, 08:39 PM
