vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

So I am gutting my stereo system and starting over. My thought was to retain the oem wiring and use a bypass kit so I don't have to hack up the harness or run new wiring but I can't seem to find a connector to put in on the amp end? Anyone point me in the right direction or do I have to cut it up?

I just don't like hacking up harnesses to tap rca connections usually leads to nothing good but it's not like anyone would want to convert it back to a oem setup but I can't get around the idea of it.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

The Bose amplifier is configured for a differential input, not single ended.
Also, the amplifier volume is controlled by ClassII data.
Can be done, but not easy.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

gotcha, so i would still have to run my rca's to the trunk, to my new amp. is there a connector out there to plug into the speaker harness at the trunk to keep the stock speaker wiring or is cutting up the connector my only option. was wondering if you where still lurking around, just about every thread i came across refers back to you redoing yours lol

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

If I were you I would look into running an optical cable.

A lot less hassle then RCA cables.

I never had any luck getting a connector to mimic the Bose amp.

I am sure there is one, I just got busy doing other stuff.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I did this...it was a PITA. It was worth it...and not. I kept the factory HU and dumped the amp and Nav/Onstar. It was a lot of splicing and tapping, and the front stage is one wire with two drivers with a high pass cap on the tweeter. Had I known THAT before I started, I would have simply run all new wire. I run this amp:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-P...19.m1438.l2649
for everything. I have Dayton mids and tweets up front, with high pass caps and an L-pad on each side of the tweets, DLS coax in back, and an ID sub in the factory spot with some extra bracing. The factory HU still runs the center channel and I upgraded that dude with this, a win for sure:
https://www.parts-express.com/celest...9cj00272e0005c
If you want something with meaningful power (not like mine), and better SQ, run new wires. I was able to tap into the HU and push that to an Audiocontrol LCQ1 and into the PPI amp. The Audiocontrol compensates for the bass cutting that happens in the Blose HU. It was a **** ton of work but it sounds nice and looks factory and retains 95% of trunk space. To do it over, I'd do the regular DIC and an aftermarket HU with fresh cabling and more power. This was a compromise but it does sound nice playing a nice CD and the OEM alternator (with Big3) handles it with no dimming so I called it good. TranzitHF bluetooth and it will do everything I need it to. It wasn't a ton of cash so on balance, I call it a win.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...acement-2.html

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

good to know, looks like i am starting from scratch, im dumping the head unit as well. has been determined comp mode is not dependent on the display its just the acknowledgement. cant see a reason to keep it anymore after my nav drive took a dump.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

The only thing I miss is the voltmeter but it would be nice to know if comp mode is in or out...anybody know how we might be able to hook up a small indicator lamp to it?

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Won't using the base CTS DIC show this?

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Not that easy.

I was looking into using a Raspberry Pi to decipher the classII information for the modes and also to provide a feedback switch like on the radio.

The biggest stumbling block is that the early Vs used a weird data protocol that doesn't "conform". That is why early HP users had problems talking to the computer.

I have a whole setup dedicated to hacking the CANBUS.

I still may do something with the Pi in this lifetime.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I like this upgrade, but I thought B*se stuff was very low impedance? I would seem to think that it would only be receiving a fraction (~1/8th) of the power that the factory speaker would draw. Since you're running everything else off a different amp which can be adjusted for balance, I wonder how dropping this upgrade speaker into a stock setup would fare.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I did figure out an adapter to use the stock HU with any amp.

PAC made a unit that would read the classII and converted the differential audio to single ended.

Reading the classII retains the volume control function.

However, they did that with transformers which SUCK unless you use really good ones (they didn't). I found a Burr Brown IC that works great, but I also had to add a DC to DC convertor to power it.

I made a few and was looking for a connector to make it "plug & play", but as I said I got distracted by other stuff.

If you are interested in trying one, let me know.

Doble

I want to update my car like this. I'm not good with electronics, it's giving me a headache.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

The speaker's spec says 8ohm but my multimeter said more like 4.5. I didn't ohm out the OEM speaker, I should have...I still could if I wanted to dive into the garage. I find it usually doesn't make much difference to my ear dropping from 8 to 4 or 4 to 2 at lower power levels. Sometimes it works out perfect. When it doesn't, I slap an L-pad in there and just turn the dial accordingly. I'll say, this center channel was a noticeable upgrade to my ear...HU running both drivers. It took a ton of fiddling to make it right but since I enjoy it (mostly), it was worth it. The biggest downside was all the splicing. It introduced a ton of failure points, manifesting themselves as occasional static, due to the many tiny wires to be spliced. It sounds good to my formerly quasi-golden ear for how I listen to it...and it rocks enough to impress the kids. I'll probably end up redoing the whole thing...if I don't end up with a V2 before then.

I'll say that even though I have significant background in car audio, heavy's expertise and experience guided the choices I made and didn't. Both were informed by his excellent advice to others. Props to heavymetals!

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the comps!

The stock HU is actually a very good source.

It is the aftermarket "crap" that connects to it that doesn't do it justice.

As I mentioned, I got full fidelity by using a Burr Brown IC which has great freq response.

The transformers most aftermarket stuff use are pure crap with limited low frequency response if any and a lot of distortion.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

heavy has set the benchmark very high on the tech end of this car for sure!

had a similar thought on keeping the center speaker and just bridging the front two channels off my head unit as everything else is powered from a new amp. mildly concerned about breaking the center dash section, have heard they are more than fragile.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Haha, that's an understatement. Mine's cracked in 4 places and I've never attempted to remove it. I've been planning on it, but too many other stupid parts ahead of it on the priority list.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Front speakers are far more important than rears, so if you're only going to amp 2, make it the fronts (and the sub). Use HU power for the rear 2. I cracked one piece *inside* the center console bezel, not visible, but it did add a squeak and rattle. Yeah, they are fragile and getting them in and out without cracking something is a chore.

The Bose HU is a decent source, my main issue was how it cuts bass as you increase volume. This was the sole reason I put the Audiocontrol piece in the system, made a HUGE difference.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Everything will be amped with the exception of the single center speaker. I didn't plan on running anything off of the new head unit nor really keeping the center speaker but if I keep it run it off the head unit.

azn2dmax

iTrader: (33)

My setup. I just did the xm input mod and used the radio volume for a “gain”.

sounds great and I keep all info.