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I’ve ran several COMP cams in the past without issue until now. I’ve had people PM me who have experienced this same exact issue recently while others have been completely ok. Not sure if it’s a inconsistent quality control thing or dependent upon what lobes are used or what.
I would bet the majority of Comp cams are good, but even if the bad are only 5 in 100, those 5 are gonna bitch loud enough to drown the 95's praises. I would also bet it's more than 5/100...
I’ve ran several COMP cams in the past without issue until now. I’ve had people PM me who have experienced this same exact issue recently while others have been completely ok. Not sure if it’s a inconsistent quality control thing or dependent upon what lobes are used or what.
Is it like Cam Motion's version of the Streetsweeper HT or what?
Yeah the whole deal was shitty. 5 months of hell basically. My poor wife never saw me on the weekends. My parents had to delay fixing up their garage and listing their house for sale since the car has been torn down at their place for so long. I'm just glad it's over. On the bright side, I'm pretty damn good at performing heads/cam swaps now. However, I think I'm going to take a break from working on cars for awhile...
Yes, the Cam Motion cam I have is basically a SSHT clone. I told them I wanted to clone it because I really liked the SSHT. One of the cool things about Cam Motion is that they can an literally grind a custom cam with any specs imaginable, you aren't stuck picking out pre-determined lobes and whatnot which is the norm with some other cam manufacturers.
Yeah the whole deal was shitty. 5 months of hell basically. My poor wife never saw me on the weekends. My parents had to delay fixing up their garage and listing their house for sale since the car has been torn down at their place for so long. I'm just glad it's over. On the bright side, I'm pretty damn good at performing heads/cam swaps now. However, I think I'm going to take a break from working on cars for awhile...
Yes, the Cam Motion cam I have is basically a SSHT clone. I told them I wanted to clone it because I really liked the SSHT. One of the cool things about Cam Motion is that they can an literally grind a custom cam with any specs imaginable, you aren't stuck picking out pre-determined lobes and whatnot which is the norm with some other cam manufacturers.
Please Dyno it and be my hero, I've always wondered this exact scenario, I even asked Ed if he could grind mine on Cam Motion lobes and core.
I did the same thing - asked Ed if he would grind the SSHT on a Cam Motion core. He didn't want to do that, so I went to Cam Motion directly and they were happy to oblige. Part way through the install now on a 2000 C5 M6. Broke my 18mm flair nut wrench this afternoon trying to remove the power steering cooler lines .... arrgg.
Please Dyno it and be my hero, I've always wondered this exact scenario, I even asked Ed if he could grind mine on Cam Motion lobes and core.
It will be going on the dyno! I just have to wait another month or two due to the weather but it’s gonna happen.
Originally Posted by brownrd
I did the same thing - asked Ed if he would grind the SSHT on a Cam Motion core. He didn't want to do that, so I went to Cam Motion directly and they were happy to oblige. Part way through the install now on a 2000 C5 M6. Broke my 18mm flair nut wrench this afternoon trying to remove the power steering cooler lines .... arrgg.
No worries man, just use a regular 18mm open end/closed end wrench. All three times I pulled those lines off I used a regular wrench without issue.
Regular open end wrench did the job! Used some penetrating oil and a trick I learned on the this forum to "warm up" the nuts by hitting them with a hammer a few times. With the power steering pump out of the way and the ABS bracket removed the steering rack came out surprisingly easy. It is warm here today (about 30 and snowing) so the garage is above freezing for the first time in a couple of weeks. Spring is coming!
So i am curious. getting closer to my own cam situation. with the motor in the car how are you pulling the lifters off the cam? Without pulling the head.
So i am curious. getting closer to my own cam situation. with the motor in the car how are you pulling the lifters off the cam? Without pulling the head.
I am pulling the heads, so different situation. From what I have read there is a technique to insert a piece of wood dowel in the front of the engine to hold the lifters up when the cam is removed. Try searching on this forum or perhaps in the Corvette Forum for more information.
I am pulling the heads, so different situation. From what I have read there is a technique to insert a piece of wood dowel in the front of the engine to hold the lifters up when the cam is removed. Try searching on this forum or perhaps in the Corvette Forum for more information.
X2. Two 5/16” long wooden dowels rods from your local arts and crafts store for about a dollar. I like to put oil on them then insert them into the motor through the two holes behind the cam retainer plate. Works like a charm. Not a bad idea to first rotate the cam so the lifters are up in their bores a little bit.
Found this pic on google which illustrates what I’m describing:
X2. Two 5/16” long wooden dowels rods from your local arts and crafts store for about a dollar. I like to put oil on them then insert them into the motor through the two holes behind the cam retainer plate. Works like a charm. Not a bad idea to first rotate the cam so the lifters are up in their bores a little bit.
Found this pic on google which illustrates what I’m describing:
I dont quite get it, you slide the wood under the lifters? Or does it go along side them? Very interesting. I am trying to see how the wood is getting "under" them to hold them up. Thanks
The rods go thru the oil galleries that feed the lifters. I'm thinking they create a rub point thru the oil hole by sticking slightly into the lifter bore, creating a tighter fit for the lifter so they don't drop down.
The lifters right in the middle are indented. After removing the PR's and timing gear, you spin the cam a few times to make sure the lifters are all the way up in the trays. the dowels will barely fit (meaning it requires effort) in that indented/recessed area on the lifter.
This keeps them from falling into the oil pan while the cam is out. The trays actually do a pretty good job of holding the lifters, and lots of guys will just pull the cam without the dowels. The old "Russion Roullette" method. Other guys are even more hard corn and pull the heads for every cam swap.
I've always wondered how this wooden dowel trick was done, thanks.
Does it work on Morel link bars and other brands not running trays?
Good question. Yes, you CAN use the same method. You just need a couple extra hands or creative use of knees. Sometimes, the lifter bores will hold the lifters in place, but not always. What I found works is to spin the cam while pushing in on the dowel. I use the timing gear mark to know where I am in the engine rotation.
For example, I know the intake lobe hits peak lift at 110 ATDC, so when the timing mark is pointing to just before 2:00 (cause you gotta divide by 2), I push the dowel in, then rotate to just after 4:00 and push the dowel past the exhaust, etc, all the way down the drivers side. Then do the same for the exhaust. it don't have to be perfect placement, because that indented area is pretty wide on the lifter. Near peak lift is plenty good.
With an assistant, you might be able to just have them push on the dowel while you turn the cam, and it'll just go in lifter by lifter.
02-01-2018, 11:46 AM
