New Hooker G-Body LS Swap System Preview
#781
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
Alright here is the solution for the key lock-out (aka NSS)/reverse light issue with using the stock column range rod and the Hooker swap headers.
1. The bracket which mounts on the brake distribution block needs to have the ball socket moved up 1/2". I cut it along the bend and rewelded it - make sure you measure the angle first before cutting;
2. The bracket on the transmission selector switch need to be cut and moved up 1/2". Note you will need a nut that does not have an integrated washer due to the reduced threads to draw down against (and yes, you could weld the brackets together too);
3. The cross shaft which translates the movement from the shifter/transmission selector switch to the column lock-out needs to be straightened and shaped to go over the header. Guess how much clearance you need to add? That's right - 1/2"! I used a vice and a BFH to give it that sweet custom reverse banana bend;
4. The pinch nut which goes to the column rod needs to flipped to the other side of the bracket on the cross shaft. I rounded the edges off of it to reduce the risk of it binding on things; and
5. Lastly, you may find that you want to chop an inch or two off of the cross shaft that inserts into the ball socket. I took close to 2" off and ran a shorter spring. This really aided in assembly with the header in the way. You may also find that you want to chop an inch off of the bottom of the column rod - your results may vary. Measure once, cut once, weld once, measure again, and cut again.
I am running a B&M shifter and a 4L60E which may be wider at the case body location for the transmission selector switch than other GM transmissions.
1. The bracket which mounts on the brake distribution block needs to have the ball socket moved up 1/2". I cut it along the bend and rewelded it - make sure you measure the angle first before cutting;
2. The bracket on the transmission selector switch need to be cut and moved up 1/2". Note you will need a nut that does not have an integrated washer due to the reduced threads to draw down against (and yes, you could weld the brackets together too);
3. The cross shaft which translates the movement from the shifter/transmission selector switch to the column lock-out needs to be straightened and shaped to go over the header. Guess how much clearance you need to add? That's right - 1/2"! I used a vice and a BFH to give it that sweet custom reverse banana bend;
4. The pinch nut which goes to the column rod needs to flipped to the other side of the bracket on the cross shaft. I rounded the edges off of it to reduce the risk of it binding on things; and
5. Lastly, you may find that you want to chop an inch or two off of the cross shaft that inserts into the ball socket. I took close to 2" off and ran a shorter spring. This really aided in assembly with the header in the way. You may also find that you want to chop an inch off of the bottom of the column rod - your results may vary. Measure once, cut once, weld once, measure again, and cut again.
I am running a B&M shifter and a 4L60E which may be wider at the case body location for the transmission selector switch than other GM transmissions.
#782
#783
I stopped on page 52.. I will read up more another day.
I have a 78 Malibu and I read one issue on the frame holes for the frame mountsthat it doesn't have a 2nd set.
With this holly swap mounts and pan, what stock chevy ls manifolds will work?
I don't wanna spend big money on headers as it's going to go turbo setup.
So I need to go as cheap on exhaust as I can for now until we build the hot side or buy the hooker log they make.
I have a 78 Malibu and I read one issue on the frame holes for the frame mountsthat it doesn't have a 2nd set.
With this holly swap mounts and pan, what stock chevy ls manifolds will work?
I don't wanna spend big money on headers as it's going to go turbo setup.
So I need to go as cheap on exhaust as I can for now until we build the hot side or buy the hooker log they make.
#784
They will come to exist when that header application gets migrated over to the Hooker Blackheart line, which entails moving the production from our Mississippi facility to our Bowling Green, KY facility. We discussed these in a meeting this morning and I think it will take a month or two longer to see it happen as it's an operations issue.
#787
Ordered HOK-701015051HKR from Summit 9/20 with the promise they would arrive in October. I have had to reach out several times to find out what's going on and shipping has been pushed back several times. I may just cancel the order? Anyone else having issues?
#788
#789
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
Just a quick update. I recently pulled the 4L60E out of my wagon and had very little trouble doing so thanks to the well engineered Hooker Blackheart headers (1-7/8" primaries). Starter and bell housing bolt access was excellent.
I am hoping the 4L80E goes in just as easily (after I cut off the ears).
I am hoping the 4L80E goes in just as easily (after I cut off the ears).
#798
This picture is for you Highliner and is a good depiction of the typical clearance you'll see between the Holley 302-2 pan and the G-body frame when using the Hooker 12643HKR engine mounting brackets.