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Taking suggestions of just sticking with the Holley/ Hooker swap system.. I got the motor mounts in the mail yesterday and threw them on,.... just attached the body shell mounts loosely so I don't lose any parts
Taking suggestions of just sticking with the Holley/ Hooker swap system.. I got the motor mounts in the mail yesterday and threw them on,.... just attached the body shell mounts loosely so I don't lose any parts
Why would you use anything but the Holley mount system? It's the best engineered and you already own it.
Got this super good looking piece in!! 4L80e trans crossmember from Hooker Now its getting real.. I have all the major parts to get the motor and trans in. I thought it was going to be a while before I did this swap but now I'm thinking I will be starting this in the next month or so!
I got lots of parts coming in cause I plan on starting my swap here in the next month.. well after I get my harness setup. Once harness is done I will get the car in the garage and start pulling it apart. I have tried hard to research as much as possible and buy as much as I can ahead of time. There are still some things I don't know like:
1. Can I use the throttle cable from my inline 6 for my LQ4? If not does anyone have the part number for the correct Lokar cable? I have read its a 48" "LS1" Cable.....
2. I haven't pulled the trigger on my fuel line yet. I have bought a bunch of AN fittings (standard, not push lock, not the style that uses brass clamp either). I am hoping someone knows of a good affordable hose to get? I will be using -8 and -6.
3. Air intake with MAF - I found the Spectre one that is a straight 4" tube 18" long but it doesn't place the sensor very far from intake.. I read sensor needs to be around 10" or so away from intake. How critical is this? (and no I can't weld aluminum).
I know I will have more questions but right now I am just trying to be as prepared as possible.
2. I would recommend using whatever hose is made to be use with whatever fittings you bought. AN fittings are universal on the mating side, but not on the hose side. Fittings are made to be used with specific hose.
1. If the cable is long enough I don't see why you couldn't. You may have to make a bracket and adjust stops it so it doesn't over or under travel.
2. What components in the fuel system are you planning to use and what fittings do they have? i.e. what pump module and filter/regulator are you using? Do you have any lines already or is this a start from scratch? Do you want a mix of hard and soft lines or are you wanting to do soft line from rear to front?
3. I have seen a lot of swaps with the MAF closer to the elbow/throttle body. It apparently will work although I don't know how well those cars meter, especially at idle and during transients. The card style MAFs have very little air straightening capability so having a longer tube is better, but if you look at some of the factory applications (for example, the 'vette) there often isn't a lot of length so you may not want to sweat it. I used a Spectre 4" elbow and had a failed attempt at brazing the MAF pad on. Utlimately I had a local welder TIG it on and they didn't charge me very much. They also added a barb for connecting the fresh air for PCV - something you may also want to think about as you select cold air intake parts. You can find pictures of my cold air intake near the bottom of this post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post19442524
1. If the cable is long enough I don't see why you couldn't. You may have to make a bracket and adjust stops it so it doesn't over or under travel.
2. What components in the fuel system are you planning to use and what fittings do they have? i.e. what pump module and filter/regulator are you using? Do you have any lines already or is this a start from scratch? Do you want a mix of hard and soft lines or are you wanting to do soft line from rear to front?
3. I have seen a lot of swaps with the MAF closer to the elbow/throttle body. It apparently will work although I don't know how well those cars meter, especially at idle and during transients. The card style MAFs have very little air straightening capability so having a longer tube is better, but if you look at some of the factory applications (for example, the 'vette) there often isn't a lot of length so you may not want to sweat it. I used a Spectre 4" elbow and had a failed attempt at brazing the MAF pad on. Utlimately I had a local welder TIG it on and they didn't charge me very much. They also added a barb for connecting the fresh air for PCV - something you may also want to think about as you select cold air intake parts. You can find pictures of my cold air intake near the bottom of this post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post19442524
2. I got the Holley sniper efi tank - I am going to use all new fuel lines. -8 feed, -6 return (not using hard lines). Using the fittings similar to the fuel diagram I made if you scroll up a little. Regulator will be the stock one on the fuel rail.
3. That's some good info. I think I will buy the parts and have it welded. I didn't think about the PCV so thank you!
"I have bought a bunch of AN fittings (standard, not push lock, not the style that uses brass clamp either)."
That lead me to believe that you already have the hose fittings. Is that not the case?
If you are not going to use any hardlines, then I strongly recommend using PTFE hose. Earl's Ultra Flow is awesome. Earl's also makes a budget friendly hose called Vapor Guard. Both hose type require their own hose ends.
2. Are you planning on big power? -8 is a big feed line. I would think any fuel & PSI rated AN hose would be okay. I used Fragola braided nylon -6 hose on mine with Russel "full flow" AN hose end fittings. Some people swear by PFTFE lined hoses to prevent vapor but I haven't noticed any issues on mine. FWIW I think OEM plastic fuel lines are typically nylon. AN hoses and fittings can be very expensive, but if you are going with something like a large -8 system, AN hose and fittings with or without steel tubing may be your only option. From there you just have to decide what brand and material of hose to use.
3. Happy to help. The elbows I used are a Spectre 97992 90deg 4"x7" long with a 9729 22deg bend. I used the GM weld on MAF pad. I found an aluminum weld-on hose barb on eBay someplace (you might also consider doing an NPT bung and then threading in a barb or AN fitting instead of barb). I put an Airaid 9010 hump connector between the two elbows so I can eventually put a more solid mount/box around the air filter. My filter is an Edelbrock 43690 black conical filter 11.5" long 7" diameter at one end and 6.5" diameter at the other end. I didn't have to cut any of the elbows and the spacing worked out great.
"I have bought a bunch of AN fittings (standard, not push lock, not the style that uses brass clamp either)."
That lead me to believe that you already have the hose fittings. Is that not the case?
If you are not going to use any hardlines, then I strongly recommend using PTFE hose. Earl's Ultra Flow is awesome. Earl's also makes a budget friendly hose called Vapor Guard. Both hose type require their own hose ends.
I did buy hose fittings. They are on the previous page on post #60. The Earls stuff I saw was really expensive compared to others so I was thinking something like this:
2. Are you planning on big power? -8 is a big feed line. I would think any fuel & PSI rated AN hose would be okay. I used Fragola braided nylon -6 hose on mine with Russel "full flow" AN hose end fittings. Some people swear by PFTFE lined hoses to prevent vapor but I haven't noticed any issues on mine. FWIW I think OEM plastic fuel lines are typically nylon. AN hoses and fittings can be very expensive, but if you are going with something like a large -8 system, AN hose and fittings with or without steel tubing may be your only option. From there you just have to decide what brand and material of hose to use.
3. Happy to help. The elbows I used are a Spectre 97992 90deg 4"x7" long with a 9729 22deg bend. I used the GM weld on MAF pad. I found an aluminum weld-on hose barb on eBay someplace (you might also consider doing an NPT bung and then threading in a barb or AN fitting instead of barb). I put an Airaid 9010 hump connector between the two elbows so I can eventually put a more solid mount/box around the air filter. My filter is an Edelbrock 43690 black conical filter 11.5" long 7" diameter at one end and 6.5" diameter at the other end. I didn't have to cut any of the elbows and the spacing worked out great.
I want to prep for big power later... not right out the gate and I don't want to redo anything. Plus all my searches on here pointed more towards the -8. I figured cheaper to do it now just in case than replace later.. I dunno.. still learning :/ I saw the fragola and it was priced decent compared to others so I will search that out more. I have everything for fuel system except the line.
I noticed your air filter is where the stock battery was. Would your setup work going to the drivers side.. I would assume it would fit the same...
Yes I relocated my battery to the trunk which freed up the passenger space for my CAI. The setup could be flipped, but if your radiator inlet is on the passenger side like my car you may have to rotate the air tube down and route the hose over it or shorten the elbow a bit to make more room. It kinda depends on your specific engine placement, radiator, and also where you mount your cooling fan(s). If you look through the Nova thread in my signature, I think there are several people who have air intakes going to the driver's side.
Then I figured I better get started on the wiring.. this scares me the most.. but I am watching videos, studying lt1swap.com...
Here is my mess...
Worked on getting everything labeled.
I have a few things I haven't identified or have questions on but I will keep reading. I am keeping all the auto wiring since I have the similar year 4L80e and that is what was attached to this to begin with (except it was a 4x4 version). I am thinking the extra plug I have near the trans plug is for the 4 wheel drive system and that I can just cut that.
I also want to plan on having the computer inside the car under the dash so I also need to figure out how everything is going to lay out then start extending wires. Once the harness is done then I will feel good about pulling the car in the garage and pulling motor but I don't want to do that until Im more prepped.
On a side note.. I have the headers here, fuel tank, fuel line and fittings, dorman 2-speed fan, trans cross member, wiring components,... lots of misc items. I feel I have about 90% of all items needed for the swap so when wiring is ready I hope to hit the ground running!
I have a question on plugs near transmission connections and the MLPS:
I was hooking harness up to trans just to double check and I am glad I did. I had O2 sensors mislabeled. See image below.
I believe the wide 4 pin plug between speed sensors is the front O2? But is the bottom plug the rear O2 or a transfer case plug?
My trans has the single plug MLPS but my harness is setup for the two plug MLPS. Can I just buy the correct 2-plug MLPS and bolt it to my trans?
Thanks for the help!
I also got my harness all stripped of the factory wrap. I zip tied it at all the natural splits and bends. Im ready to start thinning it out then wrapping it fresh.
I'm fairly certain that you're correct on the O2 sensors - the 4-pin square plug looks like O2 plugs that I've seen.
Regarding the MLPS, both one- and two-plug styles appear to be the same physical dimensions per this page. There was even some overlap around the turn of the century, so you should be good to swap it out.
Wiring harness continues. I ordered a new MLPS that has the two plug style and confirmed my O2 thoughts after I traced the wires up to the PCM plug that I already de-pinned. So thanks for the confirmation hookemdevils22!
I got all my unused plugs removed from harness which removed a lot. Now I need to sort out the C100 plug which has got me confused so I need to try and get this sorted out before I can move forward :/ I have an email out to Brendan on LT1swap.com so hopefully I can get this figured out!
That's a tough job. I don't have much advice to offer beyond double/triple checking the pinouts one-by-one as you go and again when you are finished. Most of the connections are point-to-point and easy to follow, but some of the ground and power junctions are located in odd places that are physically very different from how they're shown in a wiring diagram. Depending on how much you are changing things this can be a pretty simple job. I recommend doing it with the harness somewhat installed/routed on the engine so you can see where you want to reduce/change lengths or routing. On mine I completely depinned the ECM connectors and worked one sensor/group at a time because I had specific routing in mind. If you can live with the OE wire routings then I would only depin the ones needing extension/shortening/removing.
03-05-2018, 09:53 AM
